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post #1 of 4 Old 03-16-2004 Thread Starter
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brightwork questions

The brightwork on the boat I''m buying is in beautiful condition for the most part, except for a few silver dollar-sized spots where the varnish has bubbled and ruptured, leaving bare wood exposed.

Can I fix the problem areas by sanding just the bubbles and revarnishing, thus overlapping some of the existing good surface, or will I have to sand the entire surface and then refinish it all?
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post #2 of 4 Old 03-16-2004
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brightwork questions

I''d make sure I used the same surface treatment down to the manufacturer and type and give it a try. Otherwise, scrape the varnish off, taking as little wood as humanly possible. I used Bristol Finish, and it comes out great, except the tops of the toerails and some other areas, for some reason, have gone completely flat since finishing. I''ll hit them again, but I''m not pleased with the result. Except for the orange color, I always liked Cetol, but haven''t had experience with it where the sun shines constantly. KW
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post #3 of 4 Old 03-18-2004
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brightwork questions

Any ever use Bristol Finish? How is it? Pilgram33
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post #4 of 4 Old 03-20-2004
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brightwork questions

A great book on this subject is "Ship Shape" by Ferenc Mate. His writing style is humorous and he has a no-nonsence approach to all maintenance subjects. Basically, his suggestion might be to sand the area to bare wood then build up several coats of varnish, if that is what is on there now. the first coat should be thinned 30 to 50%. that establishes a good foothold in the wood. The higher percentage being for oily wood like teak. Thin the next coat. Then the 3rd coat could be full strength. you "feather" in the old varnish and the new. I have done it lots of times and it look great. If all else fails, strip the wood down and start from scratch.

Paul G.
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