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post #11 of 26 Old 10-30-2012
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

Have you asked Imron?

They may tell you to use a "sandable primer" or "filling primer" for the scrape, rather than trying to build thicker coats of Imron to fill it.

Also remember to use a prepsolv to solvent clean the area well around the damage before you start sanding, otherwise the sandpaper embeds your wax/polish into the damaged area and that breaks adhesion of the new material. Solvent clean from the center out, repeat. Clean again after sanding, the prep work is critical.

But again, Imron should have all the detail posted, the way they prefer it done.
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

Yes, thanks, I have an email in to them waiting to hear back. Great tips, thanks.
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

This is a normal repair for a car. Virtually all automotive paints are repairable and most are blendable.
Check some autobody forums to learn more about these types of repairs, but here are the basics.
Clean the entire area with wax, grease, and silicone remover.
Sand down the gouge with 80 grit, keep it feathered out.
Fill the gouge.
Sand down the repair with 40 and then 80 keeping all your scratches in a small area.
Sand the entire abraded area with 150 and then sand a couple inches farther out with 320.
Prime over all of the 80/150 scratches keeping ALL of the primer inside the area of the 320 scratches.
Sand the primer and the 320 scratches with 400 wet.
Sand 6-8" around the 400 with 1000.
Clean again with wax and grease remover.
Tack rag.
Paint, keeping all of the paint inside of the 1000 grit scratches. When you paint, put the first coat covering just the primered area, the second an inch farther out, the third another inch farther out, tapering the edges on each coat.
Let the paint dry for 24 hours.
If it's really rough sand first with 1000, then 1200, then 1500 and polish.
Any decent autobody store will have a dupont camera that they can bring out to your boat and take a picture of the paint and the computer will match it for you.
You'll be doing all of your shopping at the autobody store here, the boat stores won't have all of what you need.


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Re: Help with topside paint repair

BTW, don't wax imron for a couple of weeks after the new paint.


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post #15 of 26 Old 11-02-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

Thanks for the details!!!! Time to get on with it.
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post #16 of 26 Old 11-02-2012
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by sww914 View Post
This is a normal repair for a car. Virtually all automotive paints are repairable and most are blendable.
Check some autobody forums to learn more about these types of repairs, but here are the basics.
Clean the entire area with wax, grease, and silicone remover.
Sand down the gouge with 80 grit, keep it feathered out.
Fill the gouge.
Sand down the repair with 40 and then 80 keeping all your scratches in a small area.
Sand the entire abraded area with 150 and then sand a couple inches farther out with 320.
Prime over all of the 80/150 scratches keeping ALL of the primer inside the area of the 320 scratches.
Sand the primer and the 320 scratches with 400 wet.
Sand 6-8" around the 400 with 1000.
Clean again with wax and grease remover.
Tack rag.
Paint, keeping all of the paint inside of the 1000 grit scratches. When you paint, put the first coat covering just the primered area, the second an inch farther out, the third another inch farther out, tapering the edges on each coat.
Let the paint dry for 24 hours.
If it's really rough sand first with 1000, then 1200, then 1500 and polish.
Any decent autobody store will have a dupont camera that they can bring out to your boat and take a picture of the paint and the computer will match it for you.
You'll be doing all of your shopping at the autobody store here, the boat stores won't have all of what you need.
WARNING

Not all yacht paints used to refinish GRP hulls can be overpainted with auto paint. Yes many can but not all. ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS.

Get some of the paint you plan to use, paint a little on in an unobtrusive area and cover it with clear film to slow the solvent evaporation. This will show up incompatabilities.
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post #17 of 26 Old 11-02-2012
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

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Originally Posted by sww914 View Post
BTW, don't wax imron for a couple of weeks after the new paint.
at least 60 days according to their website....even longer if you have actually used this paint and know it's quirks and foibles. Never for some of us..and only mequiars or collinite if you do.

OP.....it is your boat, go for it.

hope it works, please let us know how you do....pics, too

all the best
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

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Originally Posted by TQA View Post
WARNING

Not all yacht paints used to refinish GRP hulls can be overpainted with auto paint. Yes many can but not all. ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS.

Get some of the paint you plan to use, paint a little on in an unobtrusive area and cover it with clear film to slow the solvent evaporation. This will show up incompatabilities.
The OP has stated that the boat is already painted with Imron. I am talking about repairing the damaged paint that is ALREADY ON THE BOAT.


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Re: Help with topside paint repair

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Originally Posted by kd3pc View Post
at least 60 days according to their website....even longer if you have actually used this paint and know it's quirks and foibles. Never for some of us..and only mequiars or collinite if you do.

OP.....it is your boat, go for it.

hope it works, please let us know how you do....pics, too

all the best
Imron has been illegal in California for a long time. I can't remember everything about all of the 40 or 50 paints that I've sprayed over the last 25 years. Sorry.


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post #20 of 26 Old 11-03-2012
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Re: Help with topside paint repair

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Originally Posted by sww914 View Post
The OP has stated that the boat is already painted with Imron. I am talking about repairing the damaged paint that is ALREADY ON THE BOAT.
It is exactly this that can be a problem. Overpainting with something not compatible.

Check using the method I described to see if you get a reaction. In the worst case it will look like you painted it with paint stripper.

I was in the vehicle refinishing business through the 60s - 90s and dealt with two packs / isocyanates / acrylics etc.
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