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post #31 of 39 Old 11-08-2012
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

Regarding tachometer senders and tachometers:

Don't know about the 1GM10 but for my 2QM15 the tachometer sender is a flywheel sensor and is located on the engine block just forward of the transmission on the port side. It has two male terminals on it.

For speed sensing using this type of sensor the tachometer used must be matched to the number of teeth on the flywheel. My engine has 114 teeth on the flywheel. For OPer: 1GM10 has 97 teeth.

My memory is that the stock number of the meters have the no. of teeth they are designed to work with as part of the number. Also the meter face has the number of flywheel teeth it is designed to work with engraved on the meter face.

For my Yanmar (and others) the alternator output can used for tachometer sensing IF it has an alternator fitted with an "R" or "N" terminal. VDO meters can be used in this application. To match the VDO tach with the alternator you have to know the number of electromagnetic poles of the alternator and buy a tach designed to be used with that number of poles (frequency matching the pulsing waveform coming out of the alternator).

On Yachting and Boating World Forums (www dot ybw dot com) one member mentions converting an alternator for use with a tach for a 1GM10 and might be worth a look for those interested. The thread is "Recalibrating Yanmar P116 Tachometer to P97 - Possible?"
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post #32 of 39 Old 11-09-2012
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

Quote:
Originally Posted by paul323 View Post
My Westerbeke has an Admiral Panel - a nice design IMHO
Yep, that's neat and nicely compact.

Yanmar haven't learned the art of compact yet, their panels are large and mostly unpopulated. What I do miss on your panel though, are the big warning lights that come on with oil pressure drop or overheat on the Yanmar panel.

I guess if you have a buzzer that's all it really needs - I have just got used to the lights as well.

But that is a nice panel.


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post #33 of 39 Old 04-12-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

Well, 2.5 years later and I finally started this project!

First, my original plans were overly ambitious. While it would be nice to have Nav/Spreader lights etc in the cockpit it's not really needed. And the extra wiring would just be a pain.

Still, the old panel was an eye sore (see it below) and in a spot where it was exposed to being kicked or bumped. Here's what I settled on:


SSI Plastic Recessed Panel:
Recessed Panel | SSI Custom Plastics

Sunlight Visible and Waterproof LED Indicator Lights:
McMaster 2779K13

New rubber boot for toggle switch:
McMaster 70205K26

Heat Shrink Fully Insulated Quick Connects:
McMaster 72625K76

Write-On Wire Labels (I'm a big fan of these):
McMaster 8668T11

The picture shows some of the steps. After doing some planning with MS Visio I first cut a template for the panel itself. Using the old panel as a guide with the router table I cut out the big holes for the guage and buzzer and drilled out the other holes. I was able to test fit this (realizing that behind the panel the toggle switch hit the buzzer), and then copy the plywood template to the panel with the router table again.

I also made a plywood template for the cutout that has to be enlarged on the boat. A cordless Ryobi router will be used for that.



Comments:
-I'm probably giving up visibility on the indicator lights which are fairly small. Though the buzzer should still be the primary alarm.
-I don't have labels for the lights though I chose red for oi/temp and orange for charge. A buzzer plus a red light is going to mean shut-down! And I'll remember the order.
-I have some sunbrella fabric that I plan on using to make a roll-up cover.
-The unpopulated indicator is going to be green just to show that panel power is enabled. This is the one design addition to the panel.
-I bent 3/16" lexan to make a back cover to protect the wiring. Though I have yet to decide how to fasten it.
-I grouped the controls in the lower right because I may cover the panel with lexan and have a cutout in that corner to access them. This would mostly be for kick protection.
-In my diagram the key and the start button were aligned on the bottom but in real life the fact that their centers are off looks like a mistake. I'll probably address that.
-If I added an oil gauge I might put it where the buzzer is now, and then move the buzzer behind the panel (MainSail's suggestion earlier).
-After being frustrated by the lack of availability of good marine connectors I've definitely settled on fully insulated quick connects as the best easy solution.
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Last edited by asdf38; 04-12-2015 at 10:07 AM.
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post #34 of 39 Old 04-16-2015
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

I just built a clear carbon fiber engine start panel just need an rpm gauge to finnish it but it looks bad ass
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post #35 of 39 Old 04-16-2015
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

All good ideas above. Consider separating the indicators from the switches. The indicators and light should be where you can see them and sealed from sun and water. The switches can be elsewhere out of harm's way. Key is indeed useless and a maintenance problem.

Any clod can have the facts, but having opinions is an art. — Charles McCabe
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post #36 of 39 Old 04-16-2015
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

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Originally Posted by the_abuse View Post
I just built a clear carbon fiber engine start panel just need an rpm gauge to finnish it but it looks bad ass
Pictures please.

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post #37 of 39 Old 04-22-2015
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

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Originally Posted by Captainmeme View Post
Pictures please.
this will get mounted in to a recessed panel but still visable just have to find a small digital RPM Gauge. the small hole is for the choke. Its push button start and the red saftey switch controls the blower and start button so if you flip the red down every thing except the light panel switches off(motor and blower). but to have access to that panel you have to set the main battery switch on the master panel on first. That main panel i built is also quite spectacular.



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post #38 of 39 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

double post.
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Photo Jun 07, 5 33 53 PM.jpg   j7fk_xjKVatrlYQeGl_WX-SQs6rgh6q-mSj9a_O2Shs.jpg  

Last edited by asdf38; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:14 PM.
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post #39 of 39 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Custom Engine Panel Design

Final install.

Before


After:


I still need to clean up some butyl and generally this back corner of the cockpit collects dirt (it was just washed so there is dirty runoff) but it's a nice improvement.


I removed the broken hour meter, glassed over that hole and moved the engine stop.

I also wrapped the engine wiring in conduit and re-routed it. It used to be pretty exposed in the cockpit locker, now it's a tighter run and the connectors are tucked behind the panel.

All the indicators have been tested including the temp, which I did by shorting the wire right at the sensor (the oil alarm is normally active, so no need to test manually). Theirf visibility in the recess is poorer than I intended but they're plenty bright in daylight, something that can't be said about the stock yanmar indicators.

My last concern is that my always on green indicator LED will be too bright at night. But we'll see. It's a nice feature since it's technically possible to de-power the panel and lose all alarms while the engine is still running. The green LED will be a constant indicator that things are ok.
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