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  #11  
Old 11-02-2012
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Re: Choice of USA Grown Wood for Rebuilding

Quote:
Originally Posted by misfits View Post
SJB,

What I saw for a big difference between marine grade ply & exterior was on the exterior there seems to be more voids in between the layers. The exterior ply I got didn't come from a home depot type of store either.

I was snapping after picking up the first sheet of 1/2" marine ply at $85.00 a pop so the next sheet of ply I got was exterior. First cut I was amazed at the voids, thought it was a fluke. Made a couple of more cuts & what was left of the sheet & the pieces got recycled into a staging platform for working on the boat.

The other thing w/ exterior grade ply, it is meant to be covered with something, siding, roofing. The stuff I recycled into the platform is beginning to delaminate but I didn't seal the edges either.

That was my experience with exterior grade ply anyway.
If I could get 1/2" marine ply for $85 I'd use it too. The last time I priced it here it was double that and then some. The exterior I've had has had voids but not like you describe. No ply will withstand being left in the weather unprotected.

The biggest problem with plywood (and lumber) is that the manufacturers have been allowed to set the "quality" standards. The deterioration of those standards over time is a shining example of "free market capitalism" in action.
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Old 11-02-2012
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Re: Choice of USA Grown Wood for Rebuilding

You have the Eye, I don't, could not spell " Sailboat" before the 20th of Oct. (dumb joke on me) the day I was the high bidder on Ebay.

I did not look there... that carefully in ref. to the bottom of the mast well. I did notice the the wood area there was not rotten nor showed staining by water being in this area.
I did see that the -- bottom of the mast had specks of rust (?) and metal was thinned by touching it. I did not see the heavy signs of corrosion and white stuff in the base of the mast.

Now, Deteriorated Mast Step Issue. I assume that the -- Male Receiver at the base may be Deteriorated. I did not spend anytime looking at this area (carefully). Tomorrow, I will get a bright light and check it out and take better pictures. I do not have a knowledge base at all. This is the reason I keep repeating all this stuff here. It drives me crazy to write what I see, what my plans are... but looking to be corrected... if I'm wrong... so please bear with me.

To Everyone, Thanks for Taking the Time to Help me, I do (really) Appreciate It !

P.S. I do have experience in other areas (cnt. me if you need help) -- diesel & gas eng. building, FAA mech., airplanes & helicopters & 9,0XX hr. pilot, truck & hvy. equip. & trucking 48 states; but Not-aa' on sailboats. I got the Sailing Bug in 1983 when I was
assigned there for six months; I stayed there... right after our little skirmish that we had with the Cubains (Oct., 83).

So, I'm trying to live my dream... to sail out of FL and range our further & further. I want to make one long range trip to Grenada & return. I'm guessing, this trip will not happen until 2014 but one step at a time. So, I have the I-37 and it needs some work, I'm up for the task. Good Stuff -- the engine and trans. were just done and a lot of other work ($ 20K) by the former owner. I think, $ 10 to $15 K will get me seaworthy again. I need to buy good used equipment (mostly). I will not be able to use the boat for more than 3 to 5 + years (health issues closing in on me). I included this part for SNet members to pvt. email with gear they have for sale. My hot list & buy now -- 1 storm anchor (Munson supreme or like w/ chain & hvy. line; day to day modern anchor about 44 lbs. w/ chain & 9/16 line or little bigger. I will have to fix or replace my rudder and I37's are scarce and will not find a good one in the salvage yard. My DC Breaker Panel is (mostly) is fried, I moved all the breakers today and about 1/2 of them were really soft and felt bad. One does not buy old DC breaker panels for replacement, I would buy one that was bought and never installed. Mine has about 40 breakers, not sure of the total amp rating. I have a lot of cleaning & painting to do. I'm looking for top brand name stuff i.e. Varnish from/ by: Schooners; Efifanes; Flagship, Captains (Z-Spar) and Awlspar. The bottom paint will go on in May, need good stuff. The top side is chalky and needs done, so looking for a deal on good stuff (only top shelf materials). I was looking at the Toe Rail and it looks like it's 42 YO. I think it's at the end of it's life. I probed it with a screw driver and it seemed real fragile, seemed soft too (deterioated wood). Replacing the toe rail with teak will be very time consuming and expensive $$ ?. I will get some more information and consider white oak or cypress as replacement wood over teak (my 1st guess for wood at this time). I have a want add listed here at SNet & best my best email -- arbakerjr@hotmail.com

I will be buying Electronic Gear in the March time frame or sooner if a great deal comes along.

Avery Baker
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Old 11-02-2012
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Re: Choice of USA Grown Wood for Rebuilding

As far as wood goes, here are a couple of thoughts:

Structural members: White oak or black locust are neck and neck for top spot. If you can source the black locust locally, I'd go that route; if not white oak will be great. Don't use the red oak!
Plywood: For interior, a good exterior grade ply will be fine (as long as you seal it properly as noted above.) I've had really good results using MDO; the faces are already sealed, and it takes paint like a champ.
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Old 11-03-2012
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Re: Choice of USA Grown Wood for Rebuilding

Whatever the price difference, I'd go with quality marine ply and not regular lumberyard outdoor ply. It's not like you're going to buy hundreds of sheets of the stuff, so whatever savings there are with outdoor ply are probably not worth it. There is a big difference between marine and outdoor ply (starting with the glue). When you think of the work involved in a job like replacing and tabbing bulkheads you want to use the best materials so you don't have to do it again for a long time. I would use only the best marine ply and also seal it with epoxy.
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Re: Choice of USA Grown Wood for Rebuilding

Yes Sir... I See Your Point,

I read over the differences in ext. plywood vs marine ply and they are not the same in quaility. Question to myself... Could I live with using ext. grade over marine grade... Ans. -- maybe when it's $ 40.00 dollars more. If I work my heart out and replace everything but have material failure, I lose ! I do not want to have ext. plywood seperate in 3 or 4 years or (??). I will be a very unhappy camper with myself. The $ 40.00 bucks (perhaps) I saved will end up costing me $ 240.00 more (adding in all the materials used) or even more $$$ than this. Also, my fustration factor will go off the scale (if I mess up).

Reason for using ext. grade -- it's faily tough stuff but I will not have the boat that long due to health (future) issues. I value the helpful advice vs ext. to marine ply. and everyone has a valid point. I decided to go with marine plywood and this sides with my day to day repair policy.. do it (100%) right or not at all. I will keep my receits and show the buyers that I used the best materials when the boat was refitted, maybe this will help in resale (another justification for $ 40.00 more).

Future test, I have a 4' x 4' sheet (left over) of top ($ 42.00) quaility (3/4) plywood. I used the 1st 4' x 4' section to cut out (12" x 14") pads for my boat stands. I will use the last 4 x 4 section for the top deck pad (3' x 3') for the stair case I'm making to board my boat (ladder will not work on a daily basis). I will not be able to see the quaility of the glues. I will see the ply const. (cross layering & imperfections) make up. I will compare it to the marine ply construction when I cut it to fit, I want to see (at least try) the difference(s) for myself.
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Re: Choice of USA Grown Wood for Rebuilding

Highfly, I'mfonsued by what you call the "mast well". If your photo was taken looking down from the deck to the mast step, and the mast step is actually set flush (or nearly flush) with the cabin sole (what landlubbers call "the floor") then that is not a mast well, it is simply that someone has boxed up the space around the mast so the ugly cold damp pole isn't seen in the middle of the cabin.

In which case you really need to figure out how to UNbox that space, to access the mast step and properly refurbish in there. Odds are there are plugs hiding screws, unless someone got creative and just glued the damned thing together with no provisions for access. Oscillating saw, pry bar, five pound sledge hammer...something can fix that. :-)
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Re: Choice of USA Grown Wood for Rebuilding

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
Highfly, I'mfonsued by what you call the "mast well". If your photo was taken looking down from the deck to the mast step, and the mast step is actually set flush (or nearly flush) with the cabin sole (what landlubbers call "the floor") then that is not a mast well, it is simply that someone has boxed up the space around the mast so the ugly cold damp pole isn't seen in the middle of the cabin.

In which case you really need to figure out how to UNbox that space, to access the mast step and properly refurbish in there. Odds are there are plugs hiding screws, unless someone got creative and just glued the damned thing together with no provisions for access. Oscillating saw, pry bar, five pound sledge hammer...something can fix that. :-)
That boat is a raised pilothouse style deck so I assumed the mast step was in a deep bilge area under the raised part of the cabin sole. It definitely looks like it has been boxed in cosmetically though.
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