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HighFly_27 11-14-2012 12:28 AM

Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
I've been reading and trying to Zero in on the Right Bottom Paint for my use.

Boat will be in & out of the water 6 months at a time, based out of Panama City, FL area. I understand that the various (antifowl) paints have different (inherit) quailities. Also, some hold up... in the water but break down out of water {sun's uv ?).

*** I'd like to find a - antifoul epoxy type paint that holds up.. both ways.

I can read what the paint manuf. folks say; I'd be better off to hear what true user's have to say... what say yee' ?

Faster 11-14-2012 12:33 AM

re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
.. I should know better..... but..... I've never actually found a paint that was effective against chickens, pheasants, turkeys and the like....;) :p :) although any paint used underwater will appear to work better :rolleyes:

OK.. got that out of the way, sorry.. you mean antifouling paint.;)

This is often a regional decision, depending on what's available (and legal) in your area. I think the ablatives like Micron CSC and similar paints should do well in that situation.

.. and I'll fix the title for you!;)

MarkSF 11-14-2012 12:33 AM

re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
Generally, fowling of the bottom is the one thing I've had no trouble with.
The feathery ####ards do occasionally crap on the deck though.

Edit : faster beat me to it by seconds.

HighFly_27 11-14-2012 12:59 AM

Re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
I had a good laugh at myself as well :):):) :laugher & several smiles. I'm pleased that my dumb mistake was corrected. Just goes to show You All what an X farmer... with 7 to 13 K of chickens may/ would list in the title instead of -- Antifoul.

I'd like to hear about the best antifoul coatings that we used in the old days (I'm a old guy & like old stuff [hint] ).

arbakerjr at hotmail.com


Avery

Fstbttms 11-14-2012 01:18 AM

Re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
Modified epoxy or "hard" anti fouling paints will be ruined by prolonged periods out of the water. And by "prolonged", I mean a few weeks, if that. If you are going to dry sail or trailer your boat, you are limited to an ablative paint.

LinekinBayCD 11-14-2012 08:34 AM

Re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
Practical Sailor has done comprehensive tests of anti fouling paint measuring performance over difference periods of time. If you are not a subscriber you would need to pay for a back issue.

BarryL 11-14-2012 11:13 AM

Re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
Hello,

I have used Pettit Hydrocoat, Ultima SSA, and SR 40. I hated the Hydrocoat. The SSA (Single Season Ablative) worked fine but needed to be reapplied each year. I now use SR-40, which is a multi season ablative that can be used on boats that spend time out of the water. I get about 2 seasons (May - November) in the Long Island sound.

Barry

RobGallagher 11-14-2012 11:29 AM

Re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
IMHO, and it's not worth much in any economy;

For multi season, Interlux Extra. It may be very expensive, but it will last a long time and after a year and a half in the water and a power wash you won't need to do much prep work to apply a new coat. (New England and a couple of bottom cleanings to keep up with the growth)

The less expensive West Marine brand that has similar properties works well also. However, you will have to do more prep work to repaint. Not a bad trade off if you don't mind spending less and doing a little more labor.

RichH 11-14-2012 12:37 PM

Re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
A lot depends on the precise location and the nature of the 'fouling properties' of the water in which you keep your boat. Keeping the boat in the 'still' water behind a bulkhead, or at the 'head' of slow moving stream/creek invariably will allow a LOT of slime build up, quickly followed by the growth of 'hard' fouling, sponges, etc. that will get a 'foothold' in the slime. Usually, you have to find out which type of paint, how the locals apply the paint, etc. ... and then 'match' the type and method for the area where you keep the boat.

With long haul outs interspaced with 'in water', will exclude all paints except ablatives, ablatives with 'slime' additives, OR straight teflon/copper (VC-17, Baltoplate, etc.).

With case of ablatives and ablatives with anti-slime compounds you can 'dry' and launch repeatedly with only little loss of 'protection', sometime all you have to do is very light sanding to expose 'fresh'.

Over the (many) years Ive found that the least amount of ablative (with anti slime agents) that you can apply and the 'smoother' you can apply the ablative when needed, the longer it will last and the less 'build up' you will get ... ablative build up to excessive thickness usually results in the 'deeper' layers ultimately failing and losing their adhesion .... and you get 'flaking' and undue 'roughness' of the bottom paint.

A smooth application (racing bottom quality) will also allow easier and quicker 'release' of the inevitable slime build up when the boat gets up to near hull speed. The less amount of accumulated slime the less ability of 'hard' growth to become attached, the smoother the bottom paint the easier the 'release' when sailing or even when 'wiping' the bottom occasionally - I just use a rubber 'squeegee' every two weeks. .... at least thats what Ive found to be the case from the Canadian Maritimes all the way down into the Carrib.

First, for high quality ablatives (I favor Micron-Extra) Id recommend a 'hog down' of the existing bottom paint to keep the thickness to a minimum, the first coat with a 'contrasting' or tell-tale color, followed by a (WEST yellow) foam roller applied 'base coat' of ablative. Use of thin foam rollers to apply the FIRST (or and/or second) working coat will keep the 'roughness' down to a minimum, the rougher the previous coat the more expensive ablative you have to apply later. When the FIRST color coat is 'almost' hard/cured, then take a large polyethylene trowel (the yellow WEST trowel are good) and knock the tops off of all 'roughness', dribs, etc. ... forming little square top 'mesas', then let fully cure for a week or two.
The finish coat is by using a thin foam roller to 'deliver' the paint to the previous coat and the finish coat simply fills the 'valleys' in the first coat ... apply the paint with a roller in 'stripes' and 'push' the paint into the valleys with the poly trowel .... the stripes will be applied with 'spaces' inbetween the stripes. (This is how you do fiberglass finish work on a male 'plug mold'). Let the smoothed-out 'stripes' fully cure/harden and come back a week later to fill in between the 'stripes' using the same method. The result won't produce an absolutlely smooth and fair racing bottom but will be close enough; but will be significantly smoother than paint 'slopped on' with a hairy roller.

When later hauling the boat if the 'contrast color' is starting to show through only repaint those zones that are 'showing' through .... the contrast color 'tell tale' coat is also ablative and should have the same 'potency' as the 'finish' coats ... and you 'can' delay the 'repaint' for another season if you desire.
You may need to re-fill the 'valleys' and developed surface roughness yearly, but this will only need 'quarts' of bottom paint instead of horrendously expensive gallons. And by only using 'quarts' to do the 'fill' of the surface roughness that develops you dont get the inevitable 'mass flaking' when the deeper applied layers ultimately lose their adhesion.

In the Carolinas and Georgia, the practice of using anti-slime ablative paint for 2-3 feet down from the waterline (the SLIME ZONE) and just plain old 'ablative' lower than that is becoming common ... to help keep the cost down.

So, in summary, use what the locals are using; but., put it on as smooth as possible, and keep your boat in 'flowing water' to keep the slime to a minimum - the least slime build up the least amount of hard growth.

FWIW, in areas of heavy 'hard growth' use "Prop Ppeed' or Petit Zinc-Rich "Barnacle Barrier" on all the metal underwater gear.

If slime is a problem ... get a retractable painters pole and attach either a squeegee or attach a few square feet of 'Berber' carpet and simply 'wipe' the underwater surfaces every week or two, dont needlessly scrub the ablative paint off. With a 'smooth' bottom you'll remove most of it, just by 'wiping' the hull. Usually no need to 'scrub' which also removes expensive bottom paint ... and least amount of bottom paint that unnecessarily goes into the water the better from a 'conservation' stand-point.

Hope this helps.

HighFly_27 11-14-2012 12:50 PM

Re: Advice on Best Antifoul Paint that Holds Up -- In & Out of Salt Water
 
RichH & All

Thank You for your Detailed Explanation.. it Really put me on Track.

I just subscribed to Practial Sailor and ordered the Oct. back issue on Antifouling paints and other information about hull care & paints, etc. .

Thanks' again,

Avery


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