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Installing a traditional head from scratch

2K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  Minnewaska 
#1 ·
My boat currently has a porta potti that must go! I have done my research on both traditional and composting heads so I'm not looking for a which is better debate. What I'm curious about is if anyone here has installed a traditional, manual head from scratch. How difficult a job was it, and what was the total cost of the project. Thanks for your help!
 
#2 ·
I just replaced my whole head system except for the through-hull. I replaced the head, all lines, the holding tank, and re-routed the holding tank vent.

It was a solid day of work and cost a little bit less than $1000. The two big expenses were the head (about $250 for a Raritan PHC) and holding tank (about $350 for a 18 gallon Sealand with custom fittings and two dip tubes). The rest went to high quality waste hoses (>$10/foot) and fittings. On my boat the run from the head to the holding tank is quite direct (the holding tank is in a lazarette just aft of the head) so installation was simple. The overall size of the lazarette made it easy for me to choose the shape and dimensions of the tank without having to get anything too complex. Those two factors could greatly influence the cost of installation.

I suggest reading the articles from Peggy Hall on ventilating holding tanks before designing the layout inside your boat.

If the boat wasn't designed for a holding tank at a minimum you'll need to T an existing through hull for water or add one to the boat. You'll also need a dump through-hull if you want the ability to dump when offshore.
 
#3 ·
Biggest challenge won't be installing it, but developing a secure base to fit it on and locating space for holding tank. Intake thru-hull, overboard vent from holding tank, holding tank pump out fitting on deck, and likely a few holes to run the hoses through. Normally the base is elevated to allow for comfort & ergonomics. You can build the base out of marine plywood and laminate it in place, when elevated you will be able to access underneath to install the nuts. Alternately you can build a temporary mold to create a fiberglass base (smooth surface means it is pretty as well as easier to keep clean). I'd finalize the location and build a mockup out of cardboard or masonite, then get to building the actual base.

Cost - depends, but don't cut corners using incorrect hose & fittings.

Some photos of your target location would help.
 
#4 ·
Toliet- $200
Hoses- $200- trident green stripe 101 or 102
Holding tank $300- Ronco has many shapes capacities- I owuld go 24 gallons
Thru hull and ball valve-$140
Deck Plate and pump out- $150
I would put a "y" valve and mascerator in case you go in the ocean.- $150

Good recommendations for glassing head platform. Also tank must be secured and held in by framing so it doesnt shift or move at all./
 
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#5 ·
Thank you all for your responses. There is already a platform. I will take pictures tomorrow when I'm at my boat, I agree it would be helpful. there is a locker in the head that a holding tank could fit into. I could also fit it under the v-berth.
 
#6 ·
My cal has a vetus bladder holding tank that worried me a first, I have learned to kind of like it now,easy to see how full / empty it is , and relative easy to remove. ... When placing your tank concider what the added weight will do to your water line....Dale
 
#8 ·
Good advice above. Here's a couple of things to keep in mind.

Get the absolute largest holding tank you can possible jam in. A critical method to prevent odor is to flush sufficient clean water (salt or fresh), after you empty the bowl. That can take a total of 2 or more gallons per flush!! 90% of boaters fail to do this and 90% of marine heads smell.

Secondly, be sure there are no dips in the waste lines that will hold effluent. Keep in mind that the hose will weigh more with water in it, so be sure it wont' dip after you run it. Bracing can help.

Never ever put anything in your tank that you didn't eat.

Run a large vent line, minimum 1 inch. Two is a great idea, but not mandatory.
 
#11 ·
Haven't done the actual toilet end, but have now retrofitted a few holding tanks into direct overboard discharging boats.
Total cost of materials was about 800$ IIRC for a small boat, but that included a fancy Jabasco all in one holding tank(Macerator pump, tank level monitor, control pad etc.) Big advantage of that is that it confines everything within a small footprint, and you only have to securely mount one thing.
Often if you scrounge around at West Marine etc and keep an eye out, cut lengths of hose that aren't picked up go up for sale cheap, hose is very expensive at full retail.

If your boat has never had one, I'd think about getting the same size thru-hull as your sink, then you can use the size hose, hose clamps etc, and buy a larger quantity to do a couple projects at once.
 
#12 ·
Just a note; if you have a cored hull and are going to add a seacock underwater, you should dig out an inch or so of core around the hole for the seacock and fill it w/ epoxy filler so you can tighten the seacock without crushing the core.
 
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