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  #11  
Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

12v electric diaphragm air pumps are readily available from aquarium shops.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

I have a 30ft hose on one of my tanks, I carry on the boat. I have a yoke to hook (2) tanks together, but haven't had the need. Remember, even a 'hooker' rig has 'bottom' time, don't get into trouble by thinking you can STAY down forever,(like cleaning a couple of hulls at one time). .02
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Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

If you mean decompression time, its all but impossible to have an issue when your max depth may be 6 or 7 ft.
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonV View Post
12v electric diaphragm air pumps are readily available from aquarium shops.
Are there actually pumps of that type that are adequate for this sort of thing? I'll admit, I'm picturing the little pump that ran my 15 gallon aquarium...
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Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

Let's slow down a bit here.

If you are unfamiliar with safe diving principles, then please take the time to learn them. It's not rocket science, and ultimately can make the difference in whether or not you injure yourself or do long term damage to your body. If you don't want to shell out the money to get certified, at least find the texts that go with a cert course that will lay everything out for you. At a minimum, learn how to read dive tables and know what the concept of bottom time really means.

If you want to go with a remote tank set up, then most places are going to want to see a cert card when you take your tanks in for a fill.

A couple of things mentioned got my attention.

Quote:
There is one drawback to this idea: You need the weight of the tank to actually get and stay under water; some even need extra lead besides the tank.
Without that weight, you bob up like a cork, or have to paddle like crazy, just to stay under water.
This is actually incorrect. Buoyancy control when under water is a continuous process. One of the forces at play is the air tank (others are the water density, your own body composition, the amount of gear you carry, the size and type of exposure protection you wear and at what depth, etc.) When a dive tank is full, it is negatively buoyant -- i.e. is acts as a weight. As the tank empties, it becomes negatively buoyant -- i.e., it acts as a float. Using a remote air supply removes the changing buoyancy variable of the tank.

Quote:
I have a 30ft hose on one of my tanks, I carry on the boat. I have a yoke to hook (2) tanks together, but haven't had the need. Remember, even a 'hooker' rig has 'bottom' time, don't get into trouble by thinking you can STAY down forever,(like cleaning a couple of hulls at one time). .02
AirborneSF and Minnewaska are both right. Here's a table that shows the increasing water pressure at the depths we're talking about:



As you can see, even at the relatively shallow depths we are talking about you need to consider overall increased nitrogen absorption. But as Minne mentions, rarely does the absorption level reach something that must be taken into account. Most recreational dive tables set 120 minutes as a max bottom time for depth of less than 1 atmosphere (1atm, or <33').
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
If you mean decompression time, its all but impossible to have an issue when your max depth may be 6 or 7 ft.
The danger would be in surfacing without exhaling more than a concern with decom times. It's possible, even at very shallow depths, to cause an air embolism.
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Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

Quote:
Originally Posted by stopher2 View Post
1. gasoline pancake oiless compressor with 2 tanks. 150psi
Mild steel accumulator tanks kept in a marine environment will become unsuitable for breathing in short order. Stainless or plastic only.

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Originally Posted by stopher2 View Post
3. ingress air filter and distance hose (to ensure you don't get any CO into the lines)
Mounting the intake filter on a tall snorkle is the safest bet.

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Originally Posted by stopher2 View Post
5. lowes air line spliced with regulator (1st stage=150psi)
Never ever use pneumatic tool hose as breathing hose. You should only use hose rated to provide clean breathing air.

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6. normal diving regulator.
Maybe. Not all off the shelf 2nd stage regulators will perform well in a hookah rig.

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thats cheaping it out at about $600 all said.
They're your lungs and it's your life. But breathing compressed air underwater is not the time to be "cheaping out." Are you even SCUBA certified?
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

Good points Porfin and fstbttm. Seems there are people posting here who have 'resort' certifications rather than real knowledge.
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Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

Propane makes sense as a motor fuel when you need a clean burn, i.e .when the motor will be used once every six months and then put away,and you don't want to clean it out, pickle it, worry about varnish and gums forming in the fuel.

But if you're going to use the motor more frequently, propane also has the lowest energy density and will be the most expensive fuel you can burn. Propane for the air compressor? Sounds like a waste of time and money if you are going to use that compressor regularly, i.e. once a month or more often to clean the bottom.

Of course if you have propane and diesel onboard, it still may make more sense than going out for gasoline. Damned hard to find SMALL diesel-powered anythings.
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Old 01-28-2013
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Re: DIY - discussion on building a DIY hookah diving compressor

Regarding Propane vs Gasoline vs Diesel vs Electric; for this application, I would prefer an electric pump versus one powered by any form of internal combustion engine (ICE). The ICE will need an oil change at least yearly to remain operational. Electric should not.
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