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  #11  
Old 02-03-2013
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Re: rusting stainless

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Originally Posted by RichH View Post
Your stainless was probably supplied with a common 'mill finish' - the surface is rough, has many mill rolling marks, not polished.
Also, possibly the material was processed with plain steel tools, jigs and fixtures with the plain carbon steel contaminating the surface of the stainless steel.

For rust prevention and corrosion retardation, 300 series stainless has to be supplied in at least a 300 to 180 grit finish to remove processing scars and surface defects of manufacture by the mill followed by or purchased from the mill already 'sanded'/ground; then surface then can be 'passivated' to remove the remaining surface IRON. Simple passivation should only be done with a surface ground to at least that mill supplied 180 grit finish. For best corrosion resistance (rusting, etc.) is to grind all welds flat and planar to the surfaces followed by grinding, then finely sand (down to 600 grit) followed by power-buffing to a mechanical mirror bright surface to remove all scratches and mechanical blemishes, followed by electropolishing.

If you take 'any' 300 series stainless steel that is not mill or shop finished to the above, it will surface rust, especially on boats when in contact with sea water. Thats why 99.9% of the stainless steel you see on 'boats' is 'very shiny' - its highly polished to prevent rust and corrosion.
Rich is exactly right. I did that on all my chainplates, headstay fitting, lifeline stanchions etc. and they looked as good as new for years until I sold the boat.

Buying a buffer - like a bench grinder with extra long shafts - is a great investment if you are working on an old boat - it will revive all but the worst S/S corrosion and keep it looking good. You can get handyman versions from Harbour Freight for under $50 and they work fine. Electropolishing is not that expensive either. It should be mandatory for chainplates and keel reinforcements.
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  #12  
Old 02-03-2013
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Re: rusting stainless

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continual waxing will help.

Or just decide to ultimately sand and polish it to a mirror bright finish - a quite laborious process but if taken in small steps one small area at a time with quality sand paper a power high speed wheel buffer and the proper 'white metal' ('tripoli', etc.) buffing compound you can 'eventually' make this mirror shiny and 'rust-free'.
Green polish sticks work better on S/S than white. White is only for "colouring" or the final OCD level of finish. Think of it as jewelers rouge for S/S.
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Old 02-03-2013
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Re: rusting stainless

Arjen,

You can get pasivation paste that can be used at this point. It's a pain, and a lot of labor, but probably less than fighting constant rust for the next few years.
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Re: rusting stainless

I have been making custom stainless yacht fittings in tropical Australia for 15 years.Before you do any work, get a magnet place it near your problem stainless, it will not react if the metal is 316 grade,if you feel a slight pull towards the metal or the magnet sticks your panel holders have been made with 304 or a lower grade, if this is the case my recommendation would be to sand and paint the metal with a good quality 2pac epoxy paint otherwise the 304 will absorb salt over time and become brittle and crack near the welds and other heat affected area's... if after magnet test you believe the panel rack to be 316 ( I suspect it is a lower grade from what you say ) you can buy a stainless passivating paste at welding supply shops I use to clean the weld areas when I am fabricating. This is a gel, paint it on with a brush, be careful not to get it on your skin or eyes, leave for 30 min then hose or wash it off with water, it comes off easily, make sure you get it all though! As for sanding always finnish with at least 600 grit and make sure it is good quality (some cheap brands have iron filing embedded in the surface and this will re-contaminate your stainless) sand before passivating then polish.... remember stainless is just that ..stain less not stain proof.. maintenance is the key to a long lasting polish
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Re: rusting stainless

I hate to say it, but the path of least resistance is to have it re-built at another port and chalk this one up to experience.
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Re: rusting stainless


















About 98% of the SS advise is just never ending amazingly wrong

I am going to go with most of you are just NOT getting 316 no matter what you think unless you paid for the diploma
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Last edited by tommays; 02-03-2013 at 06:52 AM.
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Re: rusting stainless

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About 98% of the SS advise is just never ending amazingly wrong

I am going to go with most of you are just NOT getting 316 no matter what you think unless you paid for the diploma
I think I know your point, but with a ton of pics and no specific retort to advice given, its a bit hard to follow.
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Re: rusting stainless



The point is this SS outdrive water pump housing got a saltwater bath for 9 years and came out looking like that





Myself and the entire fabrication world in every Bakery and Pharmaceutical plant bombards SS with salt-brined fluids and all kinds of harshness and just does just NOT have all the issues that seem to plague the boating world on a simple part that leads a pretty easy life

I can buy a simple high quality clevis pin that holds up my mast from a reliable vendor that will get hammered with saltwater everyday and NOT ever rust just because its really SS
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Re: rusting stainless

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....I can buy a simple high quality clevis pin that holds up my mast from a reliable vendor that will get hammered with saltwater everyday and NOT ever rust just because its really SS
I'm not going to go back and audit all the replies, but I thought that was generally the input the OP received. They were sold inferior SS. There are different grades and they got the wrong one.
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Old 02-03-2013
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Re: rusting stainless

Put a magnet on it. If it sticks or offers resistance then the SS is a 400 (martensitic) series SS. The 400 series SS is more likely to rust. The 300 series (autenitic) is non-magnetic, unless severely worked, and less likely to rust.
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