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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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First I don't know what you mean by "fancy splices"
Knuterikt: Thanks for the response - just to clear up my terms: by "fancy splices" I mean splicing jackets over part of really high-tech line. I do plan to put an eye splice at the headboard shackle. My point is that I am looking to use one solid piece of line, with no "fancy" jacket splices.

I am truly limited to 3/8" line, so even one size larger is out. Perhaps I should have included 10mm line (same size).
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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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FWIW - the VPC was the Practical Sailor favorite of the "mid-range" candidates a few years back:

Practical Sailor Tests 26 Samples of Rigging | Daily Sailing News from North American Sailor
Dog: Thanks for the link - I'll check it out!
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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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If the sheaves arein good shape save your money. Try Defender.com. Pyacht is having a Harken sale.
JS: Sadly, the existing sheaves are 1/4" wire-specific, so they will not run rope. Thanks for the heads-up re: Pyacht - unfortunately, they do not stock the sheaves that I need (Harken 691).
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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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Originally Posted by BELLATRIX1965 View Post
Knuterikt: Thanks for the response - just to clear up my terms: by "fancy splices" I mean splicing jackets over part of really high-tech line. I do plan to put an eye splice at the headboard shackle. My point is that I am looking to use one solid piece of line, with no "fancy" jacket splices.

I am truly limited to 3/8" line, so even one size larger is out. Perhaps I should have included 10mm line (same size).
You will not find a "solid" line that can be used as a low stretch halyard.
But as I wrote - an uncovered core to core splice is not difficult to do.
All of the ropes in my list could probably be done the same way - but only warpspeed mention this in the spec's I read.

Some splicing instructions
Note that it's shown with a short un-tapered tail
McDonald Brummel | Make a Brummel Eye Splice using McDonald method | Splicing Knots

A more detailed one with tapered tail (and timble complicating the process)

I updated me previous post with stretch for wire as a reference.
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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

I am a big fan of tapered endurabraid halyards. Assuming you had 1/8" wire, you could stick with a 1/8 core, and just strip the cover back. While its pretty expensive on a per foot basis, when you taper the line it means you only need to buy about half the line to make the same halyard.

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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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I am a big fan of tapered endurabraid halyards. Assuming you had 1/8" wire, you could stick with a 1/8 core, and just strip the cover back. While its pretty expensive on a per foot basis, when you taper the line it means you only need to buy about half the line to make the same halyard.
Interesting solution how do you do this?

Normally tapered halyard is made from a full length rope where the cover is removed from part of the rope and the cover is spliced inside the core.

Have seen some experiments combining normal double braid with dyneema single braid - but don't think this i what the rope manufacturers recommend.

Good video of the tapering process
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post #17 of 20 Old 03-03-2013
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Naked eye splice

Naked eye splice on core dependant double braid.

I realized I introduced this term w/o describing i properly.

In most modern low stretch double braid ropes it is the core that give strength to the rope.
The cover is there to increase diameter (for clutches and hands) and protect the core from chafe and UV. Since the cover (normally polyester) has more stretch than the core it doesn't contribute to the strength of rope.

Some ropes come with the core already coated with UV protection for others UV protection can be added.

Depending on the braid of the cover it might be (close to) impossible to do "core dependant covered eye splice". The naked eye splice is easy to do.

Steps:
  • Make a stopper knot 2 meters from the throat of the eye you want to make.
  • Push the cover towards the knot
  • Do a Eye splice on single braid, brummel splice (core to core) splice
  • Pull the cover towards the throat of the splice while removing excess cover
  • Add a whipping at the throat of the splice to keep the cover in place.
Finished splice, the rope in the picture has no UV protection (its just a sample

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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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Originally Posted by knuterikt View Post
Interesting solution how do you do this?

Normally tapered halyard is made from a full length rope where the cover is removed from part of the rope and the cover is spliced inside the core.

Have seen some experiments combining normal double braid with dyneema single braid - but don't think this i what the rope manufacturers recommend.

Good video of the tapering process
Knut,

To strip a line use the same splice you linked. The only difference is that instead of burying the core right back where you extracted it, you first want to pull a leingth of core out of the cover. Basically instead of cutting off excess cover, you repurpose it as additional tail leingth.

For more detail (assuming a mainsail)...


Lets assume that you have a 50' run between the top sheave and where the halyard exits the mast, then an additional 20'' from the exit to the winch and lets say a 5' section for working.

Typically this would require a minimum of 125' of new line in order to make a new halyard. But since we are going to strip it, we will need significantly less line.

Since the only part that needs a core is the portion of the line is what will be carrying full loads, we really only need the 50' up the mast plus the 25' deck section. In addition we really want the cover and core in the 25' section that will fall on deck to protect the core where it hits all the deck hardware.

So our ideal halyard will be made up of three seperate sections.
1) A core only section that will be 50'
2) A cover and core section of 25'
3) a core only that needs to be 50'

To acomplish this we will need to buy 80' of line (a little overage to make splices in). Starting 2 foot from one end we are going to pull the core out of the cover like in your video. But instead of doing the taper immediately we are going to pull 50' of core out of the cover first, then finish the taper splice from the link (I also like to lockstitch the crossover to prevent slipping).


So from our purchase of 80' of endurabraid we have made up a high strength tapered halyard of 150'.

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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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Originally Posted by Stumble View Post
Knut,

To strip a line use the same splice you linked. The only difference is that instead of burying the core right back where you extracted it, you first want to pull a leingth of core out of the cover. Basically instead of cutting off excess cover, you repurpose it as additional tail leingth.

For more detail (assuming a mainsail)...


Lets assume that you have a 50' run between the top sheave and where the halyard exits the mast, then an additional 20'' from the exit to the winch and lets say a 5' section for working.

Typically this would require a minimum of 125' of new line in order to make a new halyard. But since we are going to strip it, we will need significantly less line.

Since the only part that needs a core is the portion of the line is what will be carrying full loads, we really only need the 50' up the mast plus the 25' deck section. In addition we really want the cover and core in the 25' section that will fall on deck to protect the core where it hits all the deck hardware.

So our ideal halyard will be made up of three seperate sections.
1) A core only section that will be 50'
2) A cover and core section of 25'
3) a core only that needs to be 50'

To acomplish this we will need to buy 80' of line (a little overage to make splices in). Starting 2 foot from one end we are going to pull the core out of the cover like in your video. But instead of doing the taper immediately we are going to pull 50' of core out of the cover first, then finish the taper splice from the link (I also like to lockstitch the crossover to prevent slipping).


So from our purchase of 80' of endurabraid we have made up a high strength tapered halyard of 150'.
I see, but if you plan on reefing you would need to more halyard with core and cover.Important to take the deepest reef into account also

lockstitching is always a good thing (except for a brummel splice where it is not needed)

[Edit] The tail of this rope will not lock in my clutches so I would have to tie my halyards of when not in use.

Last edited by knuterikt; 03-04-2013 at 10:36 AM.
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post #20 of 20 Old 03-04-2013
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Re: Rope Halyards - What brand / type do you recommend?

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Here are the defender prices for 3/8:

Warpspeed: $2.87
T-900: $2.50 (defender does not sell, this is the Vela price)
VPC: $1.34
And here are my prices for the NER products...

Endura braid: $2.82 (same as warpspeed)
T-900: $2.25
V-100: $2.26 (better for upwind halyards, less creep)
VPC: $1.25

Shoot me an email if you're interested.
Price list is on the website.

Edit: had to remove my sig due to the advertising policies of the site. I'm looking into sponsored advertising now.

Merit 25 # 764 "Audrey"

Last edited by zz4gta; 03-04-2013 at 03:21 PM.
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