Newbie Question - Total repainting

[husker267]

I''m looking to buy a used Club 420 (14ft) as a first boat to get my feet wet in the hobby. Structurally it''s in good shape, but it has been sitting outside for several years and there is a lot of linear crazing in the paint on the sidedecks. The underside has peeling paint as well. From what I''ve read, it looks like I''ll have to sand the entire boat down to fiberglass and start from scratch. Or is there another way to do it? I know this will be a significant undertaking regardless, but roughly how many man hours am I looking at if I take on this project? I''m trying to determine if it''s worth it or if I should just look for another boat. Thanks

[donlincoln]

Are you sure its paint and not gelcoat that''s crazed? Fiberglass boats don''t necessarily get painted at the factory when new (the various colors of boat hulls that you see are actually dyes that are added to an outer coat of resin applied to the hull during construction), so what you may be seeing is crazed gelcoat. If so, painting would probably be a waste of time, as the cracks in the gelcoat would need to be properly repaired first.

[paulk]

A good primer should fill minor gelcoat crazing, if the "hull is structurally sound" as you say. 420''s flex a lot, however, so look for crazing to reappear after a while. To keep the boat looking good longer, use 2-part polyurethane topcoats. The 1-part paints I''ve applied simply haven''t held up well to real-life use. Prepping the boat takes a LONG TIME. (Double whatever you think - I''d plan two or three entire weekends for a 420 before you''re ready to paint.) Since it takes so much effort to prep the boat, you don''t want to do it again soon -- so use 2-part paint. Also get a
good filter/respirator - you don''t want to be breathing the dust OR the paint fumes. (Professionals are required to use pressurized air filter systems with this stuff.) The results with a small foam roller, "tipped" with a brush if needed,
can be excellent.

[husker267]

Thanks for the feedback. Believe it or not, I think the current owner simply painted over the existing base - gelcoat and all with a marine paint, nothing else. The paint looks and feels like a painted wall - no shine or haze at all, just flat. Regardless, I believe I will pass on this boat and continue the search. Thanks again

[mikehoyt]

Husker

If you buy the boat then you should sand it down to replace any flaking or loose paint and rough up any that still is adhering well.

Then use a proper primer (if using two part paint you will need a primer to protect the underlying paint from the new paint). So use a primer designed for the final paint you have chosen. Then try the roll and tip method to apply the new paint.

The boat will then look great and you should be pleased.

One caution though. If the boat is to be stored in the water use a paint that is designed to be immersed for long periods of time. Paiints such as Awlgrip, Imron, Interthane Plus (2 part polyurethane) or one part polyurethane paints are designed to be used above the water line and will break down if immersed.

Mike

[husker267]

Mike - The boat will be trailered when not being used. Is it reasonable to use the same paint for everyplace but the floor of the boat, where non-skid would be used?
Also, pardon my ignorance, but what is the roll and tip method of painting?

[mikehoyt]

Intelux has a pianting guide that explains the method. Basically you apply the paint with a roller and then have someone go behind you with a brush and lightly brush the surface of the paint across the direction in which it was rolled. the idea is to break any bubbles in the surface ...

Try yachtpaint.com to view Interlux paints or try US Paints website for Awlgrip (not sure of site). You can use the same paint for non-skid but add a non-skid additive.

Be careful if using two part paints indoors as the fumes are harmful. Be especially careful if spraying.

Regards

Mike