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post #1 of 11 Old 03-07-2013 Thread Starter
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Check Valves on Heads

Fixing to put a new head on the boat. Any bright ideas on how to flush the loop before hand. This one has a bad joker and the discharge line goes to a loop that seems to go forever. It will almost overflow the bowl it's so high. I'm going to route direct to the tank and then add a pump to discharge the holding tank.

Other question - does anyone add check valves on the discharge lines to prevent rolling back? Or maybe a gate valve in case the joker goes bad as a temp get by. Seems like they never go out at the dock. At least you could limit how much could flow backwards. This is my favorite thing to work on the boats with. Much more relaxing than sanding bottoms off Ideas greatly appreciated
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-08-2013
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Re: Check Valves on Heads

A check valve should not be needed. A loop with an anti-siphon should be in the outlet to the holding tank though.

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-08-2013
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Re: Check Valves on Heads

Just flush a lot. Some folks like to flush with dilute vinegar before working on the head, letting it sit for a few hours and then flushing with water. Sterilizes it and eats a little scale. IT does sound like the routing of the discharge hose is unfortunate (too long and sloped wrong).

Check valves? Just asking for clogs. Gate valve? Same problem.

Changing a joker valve should be a 2 minute job; 2 screws and a quick change. And replacing it every 2 years as a matter of PM solves that. If it failing more often than that, are there chemicals going in the head that should not (the specifics depend on the head brand as materials vary)?

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Re: Check Valves on Heads

I agree, don't make it complicated or you're asking for trouble. The more clear water you flush, the longer your joker valve with last, but they all begin to allow some backflow eventually. If there is any "product" in that backflow, you have not flushed enough chasing clear water.


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post #5 of 11 Old 03-08-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Check Valves on Heads

I just got this boat few months ago and had been sitting up awhile. Other boat I had I could change the joker easily. figured I would just start over from scratch and fix some things better. The loop goes up behind a cabinet and cant even see the end. I'm sure it will be fun to get it out. Vinegar is a good idea. Cant wait to do this. Heads are so much fun. Thanks for the ideas
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-08-2013
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Re: Check Valves on Heads

If you are just going from the head to the holding tank without a Y to a thru hull you do not need a vented loop at all. Discharge into the top of the tank and just keep the hose running as much down hill to the tank as possible. Check valves should not be needed and will just cause clogs. Keep it simple.
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Re: Check Valves on Heads

Often, when the plumbing is behind a cabinet, there is a way to take the cabinet itself out.


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Re: Check Valves on Heads

this is an endeavour 38 and one of those molded and glassed in units. I will make a Y coming out of the tank where it will option pump out or overboard. Not to sound stupid which I am, but the anti-siphon loop fitting at the top....does it have something in there or is it just hollow. If so why would you not just loop the hose over...other than hard to bend it that much maybe. Still can't figure how high to go. You can pick and choose when to pump out since the overboard fitting will stay closed except for pumping out...so you can pump in flat water. any thoughts
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Re: Check Valves on Heads

Pump out fitting would work better if it picked up from bottom of tank ,which is different from the dumping into hose. The Y chooses into or over. If you're flushing with salt water and bowl is below or near waterline I usually bring the inlet hose above that level to a vented U and back to pump body. This helps with the problem of placing your genitals into cold water "earli in the morning "
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Re: Check Valves on Heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by last mango View Post
... the anti-siphon loop fitting at the top....does it have something in there or is it just hollow. If so why would you not just loop the hose over...other than hard to bend it that much maybe. Still can't figure how high to go.
Last Mango
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Yes, it is more than just a loop at the top. As far as height you want the loop to be above the waterline at any angle of heel - the farther outboard it is the higher it should be. The anti siphon contains a small duckbill that lets air in but doesn't let water out. They do need cleaning periodically which takes only a few minutes - if you have easy access.

Here's a link to ITT's paper regarding anti siphon loops.
http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/medi...nted-loops.pdf

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