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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 05-19-2004
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transmission question

Greetings-Here''s a question I would love to have answered. The background first: Perkins M30 28hp 3 cyl Perama engine. Hurth 50 (now ZF) gearbox. With about 690 hrs on the engine and transmission, we had an unnoticed leak around the hatch in the ####### sole. It slowly dripped salt water on one of the rear motor mounts and keyhole plate holding on the transmission. The ear joining the motor mount to the engine cracked, and the engine got shook around on three mounts. This in turn wore out the output shaft seal, resulting in a loss of fluid. We heard unfriendly noises coming from the gear box while underway, stopped, saw the lack of fluid and replaced it, and went on our merry way home. With the replacement of the fluid the tranny performed flawlessly all the way home. At home I removed the transmission thinking I could replace the out put shaft seal and be happy again. In pulling it, the splines on the shaft to the engine, as well as the damper plate teeth were badly chewed up. In reassessing the situation, I opted for a new transmission vs a rebuild of this one. I got the next bigger size, a ZF-10(formerly known as a Hurth 100). I replaced the rear motor mounts, damper plate, mounting plate, cutlass bearing, and installed the new transmission. The engine was realigned to within 2/1000, and has always had a rubber donut joining the couplings. The propellor is three years old and doesn''t seem to be out of whack. After 8 hours or so of operation the new transmission began to slip. It was intermittent initially, maybe every 8 hrs or so. At 80 hours of use the transmission really acted badly. The ZF folks were contacted, and initially thought heat was the culprit doing in the new transmission. Then it was believed that vibration caused the early demise. They put all new parts in the transmission, and now it performs as it should. I added a water cooler to the side of the tranny for piece of mind about the heat issue. Upon reinstallation though, there are some slight signs of the same wear on the spindles that go into the damper plate. The engine has always been in alignment with this transmission within 2/1000, as it is now. The engine now has 781 hours. What would cause the wear on the spindles and damper plate? We don''t idle much as we were at the dock on shore power, or when cruising have two solars and a wind generator to help top up the batteries. The valves are quiet according to those who have heard the engine(I''ve never heard loud valves to know better). I attributed the original tranny''s teeth being chewed up to misalignment, the broken motor mount, or maybe high speed shifting by the previous owner during the first couple hundred hours of life. The new one though has always been pampered, aligned, low speed shifting, anal retentive attention to maintenance. Any ideas? The engine purrs like a kitten, as it should with low hours. I''m not looking for something wrong with the engine, but would like to head off trouble at the pass if necessary or possible.
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Old 05-26-2004
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transmission question

Doesn''t anyone out there know what would cause wear on the spindles and damper plate?
Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
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Old 05-26-2004
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transmission question

When going into gear do you slowly slide it into gear or do you push it directly into gear so that you feel a slight bump?
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Old 06-02-2004
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transmission question

Hello Bob- We shift it at idle speed deliberately, not lightning fast, but with a normal shifting motion. You can hear the "clunk" engage when shifting.
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Old 06-02-2004
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transmission question

When you used the word "pampered", my immediate thought was that you were gently easing it into gear which will stripped the cone, but it sounds as if you are engaging the gear correctly. Sorry, no help here!

Good Luck!!
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Old 06-02-2004
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transmission question

Try asking the question here: http://www.merequipment.com/Frequently%20Asked%20Questions/hurth_qa.htm

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Old 06-03-2004
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transmission question

Yor gearbox has a multiple disk clutch system with separate clutchpacks for forward and reverse. the engagement is activated by friction between a number of disks, breaking the oil-film.The use of too high quality oil is the most common reason for theese boxes to fail, and it often gives an indication of overheat on the disks.THE OLD TYPE atf-A (gm-spec)is the best one. Never use syntetic!!!The problem normally starts with a delayed shifting, and may result in a total loss of power.As for spline-shat wear, that is normal during run-in. Use a moly based grease on the spline when assembling
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Old 06-04-2004
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transmission question

I have yet to find any type A atf anywhere. I have been using Chevron Dex III. Can you recommend an easily found brand and type to use? Is synthetic actually that bad to use in this case? I assumed it would tolerate more heat than conventional, but have yet to use it. As for moly based grease, would lithium or silicone be compatible?
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Old 06-05-2004
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transmission question

Lithium grease is perfect for water pumps and grase lubricated shaft seals, silicone for places yiu wan to keep water away from. Moly grease is recomended for use on splines between shafts and cranckshafts on outboards. The partnumber for Johnson/Evinrude is 0175356. Syntetic oils best advantage is their capability to maintain a strong and thin oilfilm which is definatly what you want to avoid in your clutch system.ATF-A, was the best, Dexron II came later and covered both the GM and Ford specs. Dexron III i do not know to well. One type of oil to try might bee the old OMC oil Premium Blend used in the old stern-drives with electric shift. Part number 0500714.If delayed shifting occurs you may try to wash out the gearbox by filling it half full with a mix of diesel and kerosine, run it in idle and shift several times.NB:NO LOAD!refill with oil.Another thing that might help is to encrease your idle speed, or whenever shifting be "rough" and give a litle extra throtle to be sure the clutches engage properly. It should be a clear "bang" from your gearbox whenever shifting. Silent shift is an indication of slipping clutches.
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Old 09-16-2012
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Re: transmission question

I have a ZF10M Hurth Marine Transmission and I can put it into Reverse and Neutral but I can't get to go into "FORWARD" what should I do! I need HELP QUICKLY! Thanks!
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