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  #11  
Old 03-24-2013
1975 Anacapri Erika 24
 
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Thanks for the feedback and pointing me in the right direction. I plan to blog about my successes (and failures) with this restoration.
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

I think you might find the work shown here a little more like the repair you are undertaking.
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Before you decide on and inside or outside repair you need to understand how THAT BOAT IS BUILT

REGARDLESS of the each ways merits there are many boats like older Cal 29s were there is and inner skin with ZERO CONNECTION to the hull and if you remove the outer skin the FRONT will in fact FALL OFF



The core goes all the way to the toe rail and there is only one layer of glass on the edges pretty much doing nothing


This is especially problematic on boats with and outward flange and molded fiberglass toerails as the whole deal is already pretty week and there is NOT enough space to taper the repair joint to KEEP its original strength


When the boat was new they placed the deck on the hull with some polyester ? resin putty and a few layers of tape inside which works fine as long as you leave the outside in one piece
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

I did about 50 sq. ft. of recoring on my boat last summer. Do it from above - don't even consider doing it from underneath - gravity is your friend from above and your enemy below.

Do it in sections and reuse the top skin if you can although for a job as big as yours it may not be worth the extra grinding etc. - you'll have to Kiwigrip it or use another product no matter what.

Find an industrial type source for your epoxy & other products - West at retail is twice what I paid. The thickeners are 10X the price of industrial suppliers. You'll need a lot of everything so the savings are large.

Cut the top skin off, clean everything up well and sand the top of the inner skin. Squeegee on a thin coat of thickened epoxy to level things up then sand it when cured. Cut your balsa to fit the area you will be working on. When fitted well, roll on resin on the "down" side of it. Open all the cut lines and coat them as well. Roll on resin into the area you will be placing it and fit it. Cover with poly plastic and weight it with sandbags or plastic jugs of water to clamp it down. When cured, inject or squeegee thickened epoxy into any seams that are open at all - around the perimeter of the core especially. When it's all well cured, sand it lightly to remove the bumps (balsa is soft so not too hard with the sanding) and you can move on to the top skin replacement - either new fabric or putting the old skins back. Roll on resin first to seal the core. When it's cured, lightly sand and then do the skin.

It's a pretty simple job - no special skills required, just repetitive, messy and itchy - work neatly to minimize the sanding & grinding of glass. Use gloves at ALL times - get a box of quality latex gloves before you start. Cheap ones fall apart.
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

BillOcala, Despite having no knowledge, I have never be reticent about throwing in my two cents worth. I have a similar problem on a much larger boat, 43' cutter. I was conversing with a very knowledgible gentleman in Seattle the other evening and telling him about my issue. He has a Starratt & Jenks 45 that he has owned since new in 1977. He was at the factory in Florida when they laid the deck. They used 3" squares of 3/4" marine plywood as the core, separated by a 1/8" space which was filled with resin upon completion of laying the plywood squares, hence a leak into the core could not affect any adjacent areas due to the blocking action of the resin dams. Seemed like a hell of a good idea to me! Best of luck!
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Lots of super useful information.

This boat doesn't have a toe rail, this is hard to explain. The sides are smooth and the deck flows to become one with the side of the boat. Or to put it another way, the upper deck skin merges with the inner liner at a point above the cabin windows and appear to become one solid piece of fiberglass before the upper/lower hull seam. I have made no cuts yet but by examining existing mounts and holes (like where the windows are) I think I understand it - we will see once I dig in.

If you can picture this, the joint appears to be something of a "Y" shaped affair with the outboard part of the "Y" being almost vertical and there is no angled joint or seam inside (until you get to the actual hull.) The way they appear to have built it this may be a bit of a blessing as I think I can tab into that if I make my cut right.

This boat appears to be extremely heavily built and I have so far not found anything but hand-laid fabric. We will see, I plan to start cutting this weekend - weather permitting.
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

What a great idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gts1544 View Post
BillOcala, Despite having no knowledge, I have never be reticent about throwing in my two cents worth. I have a similar problem on a much larger boat, 43' cutter. I was conversing with a very knowledgible gentleman in Seattle the other evening and telling him about my issue. He has a Starratt & Jenks 45 that he has owned since new in 1977. He was at the factory in Florida when they laid the deck. They used 3" squares of 3/4" marine plywood as the core, separated by a 1/8" space which was filled with resin upon completion of laying the plywood squares, hence a leak into the core could not affect any adjacent areas due to the blocking action of the resin dams. Seemed like a hell of a good idea to me! Best of luck!
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

That is an extremely tedious way to core a laminate - opening up all the cut lines in balsa and coating them with epoxy resin accomplishes the same thing I.E. sealing the individual blocks, but is a LOT faster, easier, uses less of that expensive resin and is lighter.

Using plywood as core in high load areas, such as winch and cleat mounting areas is common practice but balsa or foam is better for large areas of diffuse loading.
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

It's not that bad a job. Usually. Messy, tedious, but perfectly straightforward. If your inner skin is nice and rigid, definitely work from above; may want to add some sprung battens in the cabin to help it keep its shape while working above. I'd do this job in two or three sections, then scarf out the joints between, glass, and fair them into a monolithic skin.

We are presently peeling off parts of our Albin Ballad inner skin to prepare for hatches and recoring the side decks. It's a job made more gruesome by the construction method: apparently the inner and outer skins were 'tied' together using loops of glass fiber; then the 1"t Divinycell core was poured in place. Plus one hundred for strength and delamination resistance. Minus one hundred for getting the damned thing apart!

hatch1

hatch2

Yes, we will be recoring from below. Partly because spot-tests have convinced us the foam will dry out v. quickly once exposed to the air, and we have tons of hardware work to do below anyhow. Also, we recored the San Juan 21 that way, and with a little foresight, it isn't that bad. When it came time to glass, we just hung the first layer of fabric in place using pushpins, then started rolling slightly thickened epoxy from the center outward -- removing pins as we went. Subsequent layers were gently pressed into the kicking resin & supported themselves. Gravity is largely overrated. Mere physics is no obstacle for clever, clever monkeys.
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  #20  
Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Bob;;
That's the original "stitch 'n'glue"!!!

Hmmm. it'd be better if we could see the boat; mebbe it's listed at SailboatData?? It sounds almost like a gasketed lid arrangement. NIce if it'd be a seperable joint, o matter the kind,. That small a boat with a reportedly large CP would have little by way of cabin top and fore deck.
Cut fore and aft at a convenient place, separate the top from the hull and flip that over to work. Thataways, if need be, you could core to the edge, get enuff material on the inner skin..always seems ta be a problem!..and not have to re-dp the surface of the deck. Awl-grip notwithstanding... filling and fairing, sandig and painting an entire forepeak wouldn;t be my cuppa tea

$.02 :shrugs:
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