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  #1  
Old 03-23-2013
1975 Anacapri Erika 24
 
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Recore Entire Deck

I have a small boat that needs the entire cabin/fore deck area recored. Probably and area about 15 or so feet long. Should I try to do the whole thing at once - or as I am thinking now - should I break into smaller bands say 2 feet at a time with overlapping tapered joints?
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Wow.. big job.

24 foot swing keel? What's on the interior surfaces now? Anything?

If the deck surface is in good shape it would be nice to do all this from the inside... but working with coring and fabric upside down is a pretty daunting thought... is this boat small enough, and do you have the setup to be able to roll her over? and then would there be access to work inside? Gravity would be your friend then (at least until you rolled her back..) You'd also need to worry about supporting the deck to maintain it's original shape.

Removing the outer skin and redoing the deck afterwards is more work still, though you've the advantage of working with glass in a more ventilated environment and you can do much of the work from alongside the hull. However it's very difficult to get a professional looking finish on the deck, working from below you can always cover it up with something.

Either way you look at it this is a lousy, big job. Doing it in stages may be easiest, but doing it in such a way that your final skins end up being continuous membranes instead of sections would give the best result.

Is the delam wet? if so you're looking at some dryout time once you've opened it up, and again doing it all at once would probably be best.

I don't envy you.. hope you didn't pay much for this project!
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

I recored about 15 feet on each side of my Nordic 44. Previous owners had never rebedded the chainplates. I removed and cleaned all 15 feet. I then cut the cleaned deck pieces into 2-3 foot sections. Even working fast with a team mixing my epoxy, it was all I could do to butter and fit 3 feet of balsa before the epoxy started to kick. I then set the old deck skin back in place. When all the sections were back in place and set, your grind down the cuts, tape and epoxy , and then fill and fair.

I did repaint the deck with Interlux Perfection. I also made sure that all of my cuts were made in areas that were later covered with non-skid. In my case, I used Kiwigrip, which was great.

Really happy with the outcome.

Good luck!
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillOcala View Post
I have a small boat that needs the entire cabin/fore deck area recored. Probably and area about 15 or so feet long. Should I try to do the whole thing at once - or as I am thinking now - should I break into smaller bands say 2 feet at a time with overlapping tapered joints?
Why bother? For the cost, you could probably buy a similar usable boat.
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Yeah I first I walked away, but it is a neat old boat with a super large daysailer cockpit which I really really like so I went for it. Yeah a big job, but I got a cheap price and a dual axle trailer that is worth that, so I figured what the hell I would try it.

The interior is in really good shape and has a full inner liner. The liner is also very heavily built and should hold the repair with no additional support - so my plan was to work from the outside. There is also the mast itself which rests on a stainless pole.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Wow.. big job.

24 foot swing keel? What's on the interior surfaces now? Anything?

If the deck surface is in good shape it would be nice to do all this from the inside... but working with coring and fabric upside down is a pretty daunting thought... is this boat small enough, and do you have the setup to be able to roll her over? and then would there be access to work inside? Gravity would be your friend then (at least until you rolled her back..) You'd also need to worry about supporting the deck to maintain it's original shape.

Removing the outer skin and redoing the deck afterwards is more work still, though you've the advantage of working with glass in a more ventilated environment and you can do much of the work from alongside the hull. However it's very difficult to get a professional looking finish on the deck, working from below you can always cover it up with something.

Either way you look at it this is a lousy, big job. Doing it in stages may be easiest, but doing it in such a way that your final skins end up being continuous membranes instead of sections would give the best result.

Is the delam wet? if so you're looking at some dryout time once you've opened it up, and again doing it all at once would probably be best.

I don't envy you.. hope you didn't pay much for this project!
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

This is also what happened here - they made repairs/replacements and didn't bed them. The actual chain plates all go into solid fiberglass fortunately, and the mast step is a rigid design to a stainless pole with no wood involved anywhere either. (In fact the boat sails as is)

I was curious about the drying time. That confirms what I was suspicious of. Even with prefitting everything I figured I could only go so fast. The hull shape I need to work with is all flat and then curves down to meet the hull sides just above the windows, beyond which is solid fiberglass I can tie directly to (No walkways - sort of Chrysler like in shape). So I am 1/2 considering using plywood for the flat part and balsa for the radius/joint area.

I saw an ad for a new epoxy last night from West that comes in tubes for a caulking gun that mixes as you dispense it. Named 600 or something like that I think it was called that could be handy in some spots if it is what I think it is.


Quote:
Originally Posted by harborhobo View Post
I recored about 15 feet on each side of my Nordic 44. Previous owners had never rebedded the chainplates. I removed and cleaned all 15 feet. I then cut the cleaned deck pieces into 2-3 foot sections. Even working fast with a team mixing my epoxy, it was all I could do to butter and fit 3 feet of balsa before the epoxy started to kick. I then set the old deck skin back in place. When all the sections were back in place and set, your grind down the cuts, tape and epoxy , and then fill and fair.

I did repaint the deck with Interlux Perfection. I also made sure that all of my cuts were made in areas that were later covered with non-skid. In my case, I used Kiwigrip, which was great.

Really happy with the outcome.

Good luck!

Last edited by BillOcala; 03-24-2013 at 07:49 AM. Reason: typing
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Well that is the other thing - as far as I can tell there just aren't any more of these. I got it for the value of the trailer (not counting the sails - one of which is a spinnaker) so I figured it was worth a chance and I might learn something in the process. I am one of those that likes projects and picking up new skills, it would be 1/2 the fun. If it works, what better feeling than sailing a boat you know you sort of fixed/built yourself? :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by jameswilson29 View Post
Why bother? For the cost, you could probably buy a similar usable boat.
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

This was in another thread - slowing down the hardening time should be the ticket?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyt View Post
i would not chisel out the good core, having the skin over lapping good core will be stronger.

as for wetting it out, yes wet everything out with epoxy. place the core which is wet on the lower skin which is also wet out, then use some thickened epoxy to fill any gaps, then wet out the top skin and put in place with weight. you also might want to use a slower hardener, as it can sit over night or a full day while you work on the next area. and yes it will squish up some if there is enough epoxy in there. thats why you want to use a large trash bags with sand, you want to have a 100 lbs on the area ( say a 2 to 3 foot area ) in several bags to make sure it get pushed down
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

You can prolong your working time with a slow setting hardener. You won't want to use the West 610. It's a good product but not meant for this purpose- more of a filler. Also very expensive. I consider it a "convenience product"-- worth paying for when I've got a little spot to fill or filet and I don't want to bother mixing up my own.
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Recore Entire Deck

Here is a link of some one who re-cored his deck on a cal 25 . He tells how to do it and has pic.s Cal 25 Restoration - Tim Zeug # 827
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