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post #11 of 13 Old 03-26-2013
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Re: bottom

Owning a 40 year old boat can be a useful exercise in learning to accept imperfection.

Get out there and sail! Enjoy the beauty of sailing, not the drudgery of boat ownership.
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post #12 of 13 Old 03-26-2013
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Re: bottom

You have basically the same deal as me... no blisters (well mine have been repaired before, and I have found 1 since)...

But basically if it had anti-fouling on it already at one point, then it likely has has barrier coat as well.

Scrape off all the anti-fouling (only if it's so bad that it's flaking off)... If you do this... do it all. Sand, 60 grit or 80 grit. Once smooth... use a wash to remove any mold release if you accidentally hit fiberglass removing the anti-fouling (trust me you will, lots).

Once that is done, fill the scratches, and gouges (there will be plenty)... fair the keel (make everything smooth-ish)... Then barrier coat. Then bottom paint.

The alternative (that I now STRONGLY recommend)... soda blast the bottom. Its quicker, and less labor for you! Even if you've never done it, the learning curve HAS to be better.

This is what I started with:

and this:

Fairing Compound:


Barrier Coated:

I've since VC17m'd the bottom (I'm freshwater).

But anyway, I have to say the Interlux 2000e Barrier coat is neat stuff. Hard as nails, auto-levels nicely, and is very thick/tough. Also I used interlux water tight for fairing (boy that stuff is a pain to sand).

EVERYTHING is toxic! Copper ablative, epoxy paints, bottom paints, sanding is especially bad. Use a lead paint removal (or better) respirator, and a bunny suit, gloves... the dust gets into everything!

1983 WD Schock Wavelength 24. Production boat limit tester, blue-water bucket owner, with wine taste on a beer budget.
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-26-2013
Have a go and DIY .....
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Re: bottom

We had 40 plus years of antifouling that we had to remove. ( looked very much like the above images )
This was applied to a 1964 grp 26 foot yacht.We know Both the previous owners they always scrapped off the loose and recoated .....

Click on page 3 for images PAGE 3

I ended up by using an electric hot air paint stripping gun and a FULL faced dust and Fume mask.

It took a long time to get off and then we sanded the whole of the bottom down with a 150 grit sandpaper.
It was one of them nasty jobs that just had to be done.

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