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post #11 of 13 Old 04-05-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: C&C 30 MK1 Sheet size needed

Great. Nice looking photos. Great looking Yacht. I do have 2 more questions.
1) In the photo below is my Bow. Should I run a pulley from the fixed tack clamp and run the tack line from that pulley to the outside of my pulpit back to the cockpit for clew height adjustment? I think that's what you said. Do you use a slide on the for-stay? With hank on sails this would not work. Unless I had no deadsail flying at the time.

The photo below shows the stern set up. I need a snatch block to the aft of the clamp and winch? right run the sheets to the out side of everything thru the snatch block threw the dog-cleat then to the winch.
Thanks again for your help. I hate to sound like a dumb&^% I have never had the opportunity to fly one. I am excited to set this sail. its a beautiful Red white and Blue flasher.

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post #12 of 13 Old 04-05-2013
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Re: C&C 30 MK1 Sheet size needed

Can you stretch the sail out and fold it in half down the middle? If the two corners (clews) land on top of each other it's a symmetrical spinn and normally a pole is required (not a whisker pole, a double ended spinnaker pole). If the two clews do not align and the two edges of the sail are different length then you can be sure it's an asymmetrical and can be flown without a pole. If you have a sleeve for the forestay it can be used if you choose but it's not necessary.. it will give the sail more stability but may limit your ability to go deep downwind.

If it's an asymm then you could put a block on your tack shackle on the bow, and run the tack line aft so you can set the height of the tack as you trim.

If it's in a 'sock' and called a flasher or cruising spinn then it's most likely asymmetrical. Judging by the way your boat was rigged up, you should have a proper spinnaker halyard (above and outside the forestay) Be sure to use that one.

You should have a block shackled to the toe rail either side just aft of the winch, and don't plan to run a headsail at the same time, at least not right away. The sheet should probably run outside the lifelines, but observe how/if the sheet is pulling against them.

Choose a day with light but not too light winds.. keeping these things flying without enough wind is frustrating. If things get out of hand and the wind pipes up, release the sheet and haul down the sock.. preferably going downwind so this can be done in the wind shadow of the mainsail.

Good luck.


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post #13 of 13 Old 04-05-2013
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Re: C&C 30 MK1 Sheet size needed

The pulley/sheave for the tack line is just in/out of the view on the bottom of that pic. But you can for the most part see where the tack line goes back along the port side of the anchor locker, then back along the cabin top to a deck orginaizer to a clutch, with a winch behind the clutch! The winch which for boats our size can be smaller. I use a 2 sp 16, more than ample power per say to pull in or hold the end to let it out too!

The tack line IIRC is 3/8" XLS extra in the blue tracer with green coloring. Which I use some shade of green for the spin gear, red for jib/genoa lines, and blue shades for the main sail lines. Much easier to tell folks, the blue/green/red line! Others on here will say the same thing. Some are too cheap to change colors etc......no right or wrong. I have seen some say that there is a std per say for which of the three colors I have used is for the main vs jib vs spin......I am not correct from that color code.....do I care? Hell NO! But that is another story.

I use a single sheave 57mm or there abouts IIRC, that has a clip to easily remove on the aluminum tow rail. I also have many holes to play with, so some wind conditions, like a jib, it helps to be a bit forward vs back etc. Along with am I running vs trying to reach or even slightly go up wind some ie close reach to shallow pointing......ie 60-80* up wind........


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