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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 05-25-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

I''ve an old ''85 Johnson Sailmaster 6 outboard which is giving me problems and wondered if someone could point me in the right direction.

After starting & warming up, the engine seems to idle fine and will throttle-up happily when not in gear. Once placed into gear it will run OK until you get past maybe 1/2 throttle - then it dies as if you pulled the choke out. If you throttle back fast enough you can keep it running at 1/2 speed.

Does this sound like a carb issue? What should my first troubleshooting steps be?

I also do not fully understand the ''Lean-Rich'' adjustment lever on the front of the motor. Am I correct that this is for messing with the mixture at idle -- not under power?

Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2004
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soapstone is on a distinguished road
Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

Sounds as if it is the carb to me. I used to have an 8HP Johnson much like it. I''d recommend getting a carb kit and a decent repair manual, as they have lots of good pictures... If memory serves, there''s very little to rebuilding the carb on them.
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Old 06-01-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

The carburatos will gum up with engine additives over time and plug the small jets in the carb.

To prevent this with all carburated engines, when you are finished running the engine for the day, detach the fuel line and run the engine out of gas. Always leave the carburator dry. I have done this all my outboard motor days and it seems to prevent alot of hard starts.

As for your engine, it likely needs a carb kit all right. But afterwards and for anyone else using outboard power, run the carb dry when you leave the motor standing, exp in hot weather hot climates. Saves alot of grief.
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Old 06-08-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

I follow what you are saying, but there are two things that bother me about running it dry.

First, if the carb has a float bowl (mine does) then you will not be able to run it dry. The bowl will still retain gas until you take the carb off completely.

Second, its a 2-cycle so it means running it to the point where it has zero lubrication; and stopping it there. That gives me shivers (smile).

I know what you are saying and have heard it from lots of other folks. Just bothers me to run any 2-cycle engine dry. Maybe it shouldn''t, but it does. Guess I''ve kinda grown to respect the logic of maxrules.com

Thanks!

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Old 06-08-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

Always running a 2 cycle ''dry'' to empty the carburator is the best for trouble free service. The lubricating oil is already ON the cylinder walls and in the needle bearing surfaces on the crankshaft. That oil got there previously by surface adsorbtion and will stay there for quite some time.
What you dont want to do is let the carburator sit idle for long periods of time as gels, varnish and shellac will form due to degradation of the fuel mixture. Gasoline starts to go ''bad'' immediately after the refining process - forming ''gums''. Running a carb dry will remove the potentially ''souring'' fuel mix and prevent varnish/gum formation. For long periods of layup (ie. greater than 1 month) you should unscrew the main jet adjusting screw, let the fuel mix drain and with an eye dropper ''shoot-in'' a little IPA isopropyl alcohol to flush.

Other than that, an annual application of moly grease to the splines at the output end of the crankshaft (corrosion prevention) is all you need to keep a small hp 2 cycle buzzing for YEARS.

I have a totally reliable 2hp Evinrude that is nearing 30 years of age - other than the fuel draining/drying and lubricating the splines (plus a couple of worn out minor parts), the only thing extra that I do is when laying up for winter is to remove the spark plug and add Marvel Mystery OIl to the combustion chamber to help remove the carbon from the piston ring grooves. I also retorque the cylinder head yearly.

I use this engine often and use it at full blast ... and after all these years it has virtually NO internal wear, starts EVERY time.

Varnish and gel forming in the carburator because of ''souring fuel'' is THE greatest problem source with a 2 cycle engine. Always buy your 2 cycle fuel from a ''high turnover'' source to insure that its fresh. Store the fuel mix for no more than 1 month (use the old stuff in your car) Run the engine dry to empty the carb; and, drain/flush the carb if you''re going to store the 2 cycle engine (outboard, weedeater, powerblower, chainsaw, etc.) for more than a month.

hope this helps.
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Old 06-08-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

I have been running my 2 cycle dry for the past three years and during that time it has performed better than ever. I am convinced that the difference in performance is mainly due to this practice. Try it...I think you will notice a difference in start-up if nothing else.

Bobbi

s/v Kokopelli
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Old 06-08-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

After you remove the fuel hose quick-coupling the motor may idle for a couple of minutes. When it stalls out, the carb bowl is empty. Since it runs out of gas/oil at the same time no damage happens. This was the procedure outlined in the manual for my old Merc. 7.5.

Best of luck
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Old 06-23-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

Another possible issue is a bad fuel pump diaphram. And replacing the fuel pump diaphram is a lot easier than rebuilding the carb! It''s easily accessible if you follow the fuel hose back from the carb to where the pump is installed against the cylinder block. Can replace it in under 15 minutes. And a diaphram is only a buck or two. Carb is the more common problem, but why eliminate the cheap and easy stuff first?
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Old 06-24-2004
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Johnson Sailmaster 6 vs Me

Only problem there Peter is that the fuel pump is embossed with something equivalent to "This pump can be replaced only - not rebuilt" (smile).

The cost of a new fuel pump for this model is not bad; only $49. Its also exactly what maxrules.com recommended for the motor, and just like you even before a carb rebuild.

Thanks!

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