Don't sand first! - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of Old 04-09-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Don't sand first!

the toe rail caps on my boat get wear real quick because of dock lines spring lines and people (even me) walking on them. The rest of the cetol on the boat is still good and only needs recoat. I may try the clear this year!

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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My last project!
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My boat is sold!
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post #12 of Old 04-09-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

Scraping is always (IMHO) faster and easier than sanding. You can also get a finish that is actually smoother (done to 600 grit).

As to leaving teak to go gray - never happen on my boat.

Lessons learned are opportunities earned.
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post #13 of Old 04-09-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

i use sea water on my teak and i donot scrape it or sand it off my boat--i wash it then oil it once yearly, just before the rainy season..
this year i am going into no rainville..so i may not even do them at all.......i have 110-120 ft of caprail with taff....someone previously owning boat has sanded and scraped to death this teak, so i have 1/4 inch less than when this boat was than originally built.
sand and scrape with care--this stuff aint cheap.
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post #14 of Old 04-09-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

Another thumbs up for scraping. Sanding is a brutal messy way to get old finishes off compared to scraping. Even the edge you can put on a stiff putty knife with a file will make a decent scraper.

Tom K

2000 Beneteau 331
Northern Chesapeake Bay

Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy ~ Steven Wright
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post #15 of Old 04-10-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

I think teak toe rails are best addressed in another way. You first sand them gently and methodically with a four-inch angle grinder with 40 grit, moving steadily from aft to forward. You will notice the teak will tend to spew out to leeward until it has abraided away. At this point, you apply a stainless strip where the teak used to be, and if you are nostalgic you may apply cetol to knock the sparkle off it. I recommend this approach.
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post #16 of Old 04-10-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

I with Denise on this. Last year I found one of these scrapers in the local sherwin williams store. I almost didn't buy it cause it was $30. I'm glad I didn't cheap out (out of charactor for me)the best tool on the boat now. With a little heat it made short work of stripping my teak cabintop handrails with cetol on them, every little corner and crevise is clean. And every where else that had cetol is now clean.

John
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post #17 of Old 05-21-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

I wasn't clear, Denise, did your Cetol only last two seasons with or without the gloss?

David
Severna Park, MD
Pearson 35 - s/v Tiger Lily
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post #18 of Old 05-21-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

Cetol.....
*shudder*

It's 5 o'clock somewhere:


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post #19 of Old 05-21-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
Cetol.....
*shudder*
Yeah, I used to say that about the awful orange stuff. But the natural teak and clear topcoat are a very good combo - more resilient than varnish, easier to apply. So BJ, I understand your reaction, but on this one I'd ask you to keep an open mind. The product has come a long way.
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post #20 of Old 05-22-2013
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Re: Don't sand first!

Just curious. Was told years ago on decks leave bare but varnish/cetol elsewhere. Teak grain is softer then the surrounding wood. Reason it was used on decks was due to this uneven wear it makes great non skid. Avoid teak cleaners as they chew out the grain faster. Even when new or recent holystoned when it gets wet same slightly uneven surface is generated. In past many sailors did not wear shoes under way and bare wood decks ( teak or oak) were kinder on their feet and not slippery like paint. If left bare elsewhere with dry wet and freeze thaw cycles it will split. Personally went with the clorox bottle look after decades of pulling epiphanes but well done brightwork is truly a thing of beauty.

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