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Looking to do a modified version of the project at The Frugal Mariner: Insulating your boat. I'm going to put some hardwood strips on the hull and then attach some frp to replace the 33 year old carpet.
Question is what should I use to attach the wood to the hull? It won't need a lot of strength, but it needs to stick and hold up to 10 pounds of weight.
Epoxy? Liquid nails? Something else? The more specific the better.
Generally there's some curvature so some way of wedging things in for the cure is usually called for anyway. I used 3M 4200, laid some closed cell foam in the areas between the strips and covered it all with battens. It looks great, flat panels will often be difficult to fit to even a minor compound curve.
It wasn't a large area, but the side of the berth shown below was just a cushion laid against the bare glass originally.
I like the way the wood warms up the berth. Is that Cedar, Spruce, or what species?
Very nice.
I think you can use a urathane or epoxy adhesive for hanging stuff to the hull if your boat is relatively dry.
I have seen people use Liquid Nails and I cringed, but the adhesive held up nicely on a Sunfish. I prefer to use "genuine boat snot" for repairs on my boat though; Liquid Nails is a household snot. 4200 should qualify as a genuine boat snot even though it is only a one part adhesive!
Thanks Caleb.... in the past we've used clear cedar battens, nice and light and finishes up almost teak colour with the right finish.. but it's become hard to find. In this case I cheaped out and used regular fir/hem and played around with stain to get the colour right. It's not a high visibility area and it's stood up fine, and looks OK I think.
Captainmeme, that's what packing tape is for. A layer of masking tape on the furring/ferring strip to make removal easier, then packing tape attaches the wood to the hull while the GG dries.
Faster, I am APPALLED! Don't you know you can't use fir in a marine environment?!?! It has to be teak or mahogany, or maybe white oak. I'm sorry, you're just going to have to rip out that beautiful work and start again, I don't care how long it has been there.
Maybe a stupid question but I'm getting ready to work on a similar project down below what thickness should the furring strips be or is that more a matter of ionsulation needed and bending ability of the furring strip?
The thickness will depend on the insulation you want to add and the 'elbow room' you're willing to give up. A full inch would be as much as you'd need, I'd think, but that can encroach into the space more than you might like. I used 1/2 inch with 1/2" closed cell foam panels glued in place in between, with the battens onto that. We gained a lot of room because all that replaced a 2" thick cushion.
As for bending, the strips can be kerf-cut to facilitate that if they are not flexible enough as they are. Kerf cutting also makes keeping them in place as it cures a bit easier..
If the insulation is 1 inch the strips be 1 inch softwood. I like backcutting on table saw if a lot of curve and precut foam and use it for spacing vertical (no spiling) Horizontal ceiling can be spiled or not but beading looks good. I've found red cedar too soft and shows finger nail cuts. Yellow cedar is good but a hard wood is better It's your man cave so budget is not important. Lots of different glues work good.
For closed cell foam, I'm using Volara. Available in rolls, and economical. I'm skinning it with stick on drawer liner which is easy to wipe down and can be replaced if damaged.
I put up more furring strips this weekend. Have to admit the hot glue gun idea works like a champ. Saved me a bunch of time. Gorilla glue and hot glue, the bomb.
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