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  #11  
Old 04-15-2013
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

I've never had a sink drain corrode away on me so they'll last a long time. If they do start to corrode, just replace them for a couple of bucks every 10 years or so.

In my experience, most of the boats out there use sink drains for that application.
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Old 04-15-2013
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

Well, I hear your point, and you would probably be right for a lot of boat. You're right the drain is fine on our boat and it's 29 years old. It looks great. But all the hardware holding the drain to the boat and the hose to the drain turned to dust. It was an accident waiting to happen. That said, if they could easily be replaced every 10 years, maybe I'd just do that. But in our configuration it's not only difficult, I'm not actually sure it's possible. The parts break just trying to get the hose on. Not very secure...

The problem is you have to side-load the heck out of the drain tailpiece to get the hose on. A real cockpit drain would not need to be fully mounted before putting the hose on, so I could get the hose on everything, then bed the drain. Not possible with a sink drain. The search continues...
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Old 04-15-2013
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

josrulz

I added one with a similar lateral clearance problem. I drilled the center hole. To form the bevel, I marked the outside radius of the drain flange. Using a hacksaw blade I made several angled cuts from the outside radius mark to the center hole and "carved" the material between the cuts away with wood chisels (gouges). It didn't take that long. I worked slowly and carefully doing the carving. I dry fit it as i worked. A wood rasp finished the hole. It wasn't perfect but after the 5200 I used to set it cured, it is flush and I am the only one who can see the slight imperfection.

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Old 04-15-2013
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

If the drains are within the range of conventional drill bits, or what do you call them, the "flat" drill bits, not helical ones?

It should be a cheap job to have a machine shop grind down a bit, or a piece of flat stock, to match the contour you need to flush set those drains.

Or, you could drill a hole of the right diameter, and simply use a good epoxy to fill underneath and match up the contour.

Probably worth a stop at a local machine shop to ask them what they can do for you.
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Old 04-15-2013
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

Check out Buck Algonquin

Buck Algonquin COCKPIT SCUPPER 4 3/8 inch COMP.-00CPS438 - Discount Yacht Supplies, Vetus Nautical Accessories, Scandvik Parts, Garmin Marine Electronics
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co..._Scuppers.html
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Old 04-16-2013
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
It should be a cheap job to have a machine shop grind down a bit, or a piece of flat stock, to match the contour you need to flush set those drains.
Hey that's not a bad idea. Thanks!
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

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Originally Posted by chef2sail View Post
Check out Buck Algonquin
Thanks chef2sail, I hadn't looked there before. Some additional options I hadn't seen, though nothing "perfect". I'll just have to decide which compromise I'm going to go with and bite the bullet.

Thanks again!
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Old 04-16-2013
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
It should be a cheap job to have a machine shop grind down a bit, or a piece of flat stock, to match the contour you need to flush set those drains.

Probably worth a stop at a local machine shop to ask them what they can do for you.
You might even take those 'through hulls' you have and have THEM machined into a thinner lip flange that won't trap so much water around the recess.

(not clear if that's what HS was intending...)
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

I was lucky in that all my OLD flush mount bronze was in good shape when I replaced the seacocks as I have the older LARGE flange that seems to only match current Marlon ones

On the Cal 29 there is a lot of EXTRA glass work form the factory at each flush through hole



I thought for sure who would make flush mount fittings and NOT sell a form cutting tool well I sure cant find a stock one



After reading the installation instructions it would seem the advise is to drill a hole and hack out a bevel which astounds me along with warnings that many modern cored and solid hulls are to thin for flush units
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Re: Tips for cutting hole for flush mount through-hull

Quote:
Originally Posted by downeast450 View Post
josrulz

I added one with a similar lateral clearance problem. I drilled the center hole. To form the bevel, I marked the outside radius of the drain flange. Using a hacksaw blade I made several angled cuts from the outside radius mark to the center hole and "carved" the material between the cuts away with wood chisels (gouges). It didn't take that long. I worked slowly and carefully doing the carving. I dry fit it as i worked. A wood rasp finished the hole. It wasn't perfect but after the 5200 I used to set it cured, it is flush and I am the only one who can see the slight imperfection.

Down
Did you happen to take photos to document your process? I guess you used one of those pistol grip hack saws, is that right? I'm faced with this problem right now.
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