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post #11 of 18 Old 04-19-2013
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Re: Teak crack

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Originally Posted by paul323 View Post
Thanks for the idea, although, I would have to do the sister piece to match. Looks like a lot of work.


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post #12 of 18 Old 04-19-2013
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Re: Teak crack

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Originally Posted by paul323 View Post

I would gently pry the crack open, and then inject acetone (typically your local epoxy/fiberglass shop sells syringes).
I cannot agree with you here. Simply injecting acetone does nothing. Acetone is a solvent, it acts by dissolving and/or holding in suspension the contaminants you want to remove. But you must immediately wipe it away, or 30 seconds later the acetone has flashed, and the contaminants are re-deposited exactly where they were before. You can't wipe away acetone that you have injected into a crack.

The crack originally described in this thread may not have been contaminated with crud, but the teak oils will still be there. Minnewaska's crack, if it faces the sky, will doubtless be full of atmospheric crud as well as teak oil. Better to cleanly dremel out a crack and be able to get a putty knife wrapped in a thin rag in there splashed with acetone (or my new favourite, interlux solvent wash - flashes much more slowly) to properly clean the crack and actually remove the contaminants.

In the case of the problem originally described in this thread, unless you have pretty great woodworking skills and steady hands, opening up the crack with a dremel upside down from below would end up looking like a dog's @ss. So unless it is a huge drama to remove the piece, replacing it just makes more sense. I think in the long run, it would ikely take less time and frustration than any in-place repair would. Minnewaska's crack is facing up (I think?), so it might be more possible to do a passable job of opening up the crack to clean it out properly. A crack opened up and cleaned can be carefully filled with thickened epoxy. My recipe for thickener in places it will be seen is 2 parts teak flour (sanding dust) to one part West 404. Teak flour alone is too dark, almost dark chocolate when set up, 404 is too white. Together they make a very strong filler that when set up is pretty close to the finished teak colour.

The dutchman and butterfly patch methods you linked to are really great methods, but require rather advanced skills and good tools to come out not looking like the same dog's backside described above. Furthermore, doing those joints in place upside down in the case of the original post, would be a remarkable feat of both acrobatics and carpentry. I am going to do a dutchman repair in the cockpit coaming of my dock neighbours' boat, but it's a fairly large dutchman repair, about 2-1/2x8 inches so much easier. As well we will have all the time in the world to work the joint with a router and sharp chisels while debating the merits of real beer vs Bud Light with lime.

Minnewaska could consider a spline repair if the crack is long and kind of straight. That would involve setting up a jig so that you could use a router to cut a fresh clean square channel where the crack is, then make a spline out of a bit of teak to fit into the channel. Once the channel is solvent cleaned, West System is your best pal in the adhesive department. Glue in the spline, sand it flush, finish with varnish.

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Last edited by Ritchard; 04-19-2013 at 10:20 PM.
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-20-2013
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Re: Teak crack

Ditto on wedging open the crack and using a syringe to glue deep. If you use polyester glue, the wood needs to have moisture, as in H2O. If you clean with Acetone or any other solvent you will dry it out and the glue will not bond well. Even just breathing hard on the area(like cleaning your glasses) will help. Clamp firmly but don't squeeze all the glue out. The glue should foam out of the crack if it is working correctly and the pressure of the cure will force it into all voids. Be sure to put paper under the work to catch dripping glue and tape off around the crack. As it stops dripping and foaming you can wipe the area with a damp cloth to clean up uncured polyester glue. The board does look a bit thin but if you use a very long screw and pre drill you should be good for a while. It may fail along a different portion of grain if stressed too much.
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-20-2013
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Re: Teak crack

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Originally Posted by Ritchard View Post
.......Minnewaska could consider a spline repair if the crack is long and kind of straight. That would involve setting up a jig so that you could use a router to cut a fresh clean square channel where the crack is, then make a spline out of a bit of teak to fit into the channel. Once the channel is solvent cleaned, West System is your best pal in the adhesive department. Glue in the spline, sand it flush, finish with varnish.
This probably is the right thing to do, but a bit challenging.

To describe the crack a bit better, the piece is close to a 1" x 2" strip that is approx 3 feet long. It lies on its flat 2" wide side to made a piece of trim on the cabin top. It serves no purpose other than decorative. The crack is along the lengthwise grain in the wood. It extend approx 2/3rds the length of the piece, out the end grain at one end, but not entirely to the other end. Therefore, the piece would not come in two, if removed. It is screwed down with the holes plugged with teak dowel.

I could drill the dowels out and remove it easily enough. However, there is some structural integrity to the piece that would be destroyed, if I completed the break. I suspect that just separating it enough to get some epoxy inside could break it anyway.

I don't currently intend to varnish it, as I've adopted the grey look on all teak outside of the cockpit. Although, unless it is fully sealed, no varnish product would ever stay adhered to it.


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post #15 of 18 Old 04-20-2013
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Re: Teak crack

After the Gorilla Glue in there, I don't imagine that any other glue will stick well. It will turn into a glue burrito from hell. Well, maybe a glue quesadilla is a more apt description.
I think that you've already decided to replace the whole piece and that, IMO, indicates mental health.


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post #16 of 18 Old 04-20-2013
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Re: Teak crack

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Originally Posted by Ritchard View Post
Paul323, how do you propose to thoroughly clean out a crack?
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-20-2013
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Re: Teak crack

I can't help thinking that it would be a hell of a lot simpler and easier to simply replace it with something a little beefier.

Even if you did manage to glue the crack together, you're no better off than you were originally - a too thin piece that will simply crack again - next time alongside the glue line if your gluing was strong.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-20-2013
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Re: Teak crack

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Originally Posted by Ritchard View Post
I cannot agree with you here. Simply injecting acetone does nothing. Acetone is a solvent, it acts by dissolving and/or holding in suspension the contaminants you want to remove....
Yeah, agreed; it is not perfect, but I have had some success using the acetone syringe to dissolve/flush out, uses up a bit of acetone, though. It is difficult to get things really clean if you can't wipe deep into the crack (sorry, couldn't resist).

I was just offering other options...(clearly the butterfly does not work well for this, but the chart table crack perhaps). Not very keen on the dremel/fill with wood-dust/epoxy personally - good for cosmetic repairs (used it many times), but the weakness introduced by the crack will still be there, and I don't know if it would hold when redrilled. Also as somebody mentioned regluing a previously glued crack is almost always a mess. So you are probably right - replacement is best, or the dutchman if space/skill allows.
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