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zerologic 04-17-2013 11:31 AM

Teak crack
3 Attachment(s)
I have a crack in a teak platform that is holding the hinge for hatch lock. I tried guerilla glue, but it came apart. Any suggestion on the best way to fix it?

I am attaching pictures.

SloopJonB 04-17-2013 11:38 AM

Re: Teak crack
It's too thin where that screw goes in - that's why it split on the plane of the screw.

Beefing up that area with a block of wood laminated to the existing wood or replacing the piece with something thicker is the only permanent fix.

bristol299bob 04-17-2013 01:03 PM

Re: Teak crack
agree with Sloop.

I'd replace it with a piece of red oak or some other decent wood. No need for teak there, it's inside right? I'd make the replacement piece beefier than the existing. I use an insert and a machine screw to mount that latch, although a wood screw (pre-drilled of course) would do.

downeast450 04-17-2013 02:11 PM

Re: Teak crack
I have tried WEST on teak cracks with limited success. When I made a second attempt adding biscuits to the WEST it has worked. Installing the biscuits required my splitting the cracked piece completely apart and gluing it back together with the biscuits in place, again using WEST. The biscuits made the difference. Inserting them into the irregular surfaces required my Dremel tool to cut the slots. I have this repair on my hatch boards and on a couple of pieces of teak trim. Yes, there is a glue line but it still the original piece. I made my own teak biscuits.


Ritchard 04-19-2013 11:52 AM

Re: Teak crack
I had been tossing around repair-in-place ideas and strategies when I read the Original Post, but have to agree with the sentiments above that the only permanent fix is a beefier replacement. I think a repair done in place to the current timber is almost certainly doomed to fail. Once you take it out to repair it properly, why not replace it with fresh? You could do teak, a chunk that big won't break you.

With a new piece, I might drill the screw hole all the way through, then widen the hole on the back (unseen) side of the board, put a nut into the well that would make, and fill hole with epoxy, capturing the nut. You would hold the nut in place for the epoxying with a waxed bolt while the epoxy set up.

paul323 04-19-2013 12:57 PM

Re: Teak crack
Before gluing ( or epoxying) teak, clean thoroughly with acetone. The natural waxes in the teak are what makes it such a resilient, water-resistant material; but as you know glues, including epoxy, don't stick to wax.

Ritchard 04-19-2013 01:50 PM

Re: Teak crack
Paul323, how do you propose to thoroughly clean out a crack?

Minnewaska 04-19-2013 02:32 PM

Re: Teak crack
I've been reading ideas with interest. We have a piece on our cabin top that is strictly decorative, but has a crack the length of it. Now that we've removed the varnish from it and let it grey, you can't tell easily. However, with varnish, moisture would get under it and the varnish would peel down the crack itself.

I would have to drill out a few plugs to take it up, but then I'm not really sure what would hold the crack together well. Therefore, I just stare at it.

paul323 04-19-2013 03:28 PM

Re: Teak crack
Sadly photos help, but don't always give the full picture! The best fix really depends on a close examination of the wood and design.

I would gently pry the crack open, and then inject acetone (typically your local epoxy/fiberglass shop sells syringes). Then inject glue, clamp, and remember to drill a pilot hole before refitting.

Other options would be to reinforce the area by gluing a new piece of teak or another wood over the damaged area, as a split like this is likely to recur. In larger pieces a "butterfly" piece can be attractive; in this case, a linear piece (sometimes called a Dutchman) could be glued over the weak area. This piece should be beveled on either side, the grain aligned, and epoxied into place. This could then be drilled and provide a fresh anchor point.

Alternatively, after gluing, you could drill a slightly larger hole, fill it with thickened epoxy, and then drip and anchor into this plug. Less likely to split.

You may also want to consider putting one or two layers of fiberglass over the area. When sanded flat, it is transparent (you can varnish it) and it will provide further reinforcement. And of course, acetone wash before any epoxy/glue. It is a bit tricky though to use a small enough amount to not bee visible, but big enough to reinforce!

I'll look around for some images to show you some of these splices.

Good luck!

paul323 04-19-2013 03:35 PM

Re: Teak crack

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