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  #21  
Old 04-19-2013
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

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Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
Depends. If the new paint is compatible with the old, you only need to take it down to that which is still adhered well. Safe is to take it to whatever epoxy barrier coat may have been applied, unless that is letting go to.
If you have old bottom paint on your hull, is it still effective anti foul? Or could all the anti foul additives be leached out? Wondering if there is some benefit to leave the well attached paint on.
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Old 04-19-2013
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

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Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
If you have old bottom paint on your hull, is it still effective anti foul? Or could all the anti foul additives be leached out? Wondering if there is some benefit to leave the well attached paint on.
For most paint, I'm sure there is no anti-fouling benefit at all. Some paints lose it all after just one winter on the hard. The only benefit was not having to spend the time/$$ to remove it all, if the new product is compatible and the old is well adhered. If you're at all OCD, you'll take it down to the barrier coat anyway.
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Old 04-22-2013
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

check on cruisers forum if you want, Minaret has some great posts on bottom paint removal. He recommends using a big grinder.

No matter what you do, please follow the tenting guidelines correctly. There is nothing more frustrating than people open sanding scraping and grinding bottom paint and getting it all over everyone and everything else in the yard. DIY'ers are becoming more and more restricted because of complaints over stuff like that.

Instead of the preservation tape that Minaret recommends(costs a fortune).
We use tuck tape on the clear plastic(NOT on the hull.) and stick that to the top of some red poly tape that leaves no residue on the hull.


I have not used the big grinders myself, we stick to the traditional scrape+sanding.

I third the scraper type Tommays suggests, with the caveat that we change blades regularly, they can be sharpened, just lay the carbide flat on a piece of wet and dry and make small circles. Get 2-3 sharpenings before they are not cost effective to sharpen.

For sanding, a palm sander with a vac hose attached works well. A lot of yard guys will use dewalt or bosch then duct tape the hose onto the fitting for the dust bag.

If you've got cash lying around, or like woodworking etc. The Mirka 6" sander coupled with a Festool vacuum is the coolest thing ever. Their papers are a mesh, and they run a separate DC power supply so the tool is as light as an air powered sander, then the Festool is hepa filtered with disposable bags for ease of cleanup.


as a bonus, the suction on any sander helps reduce the weight on your wrists when you're sanding on your back.

Here's a recent scrape and sand.
You can see the scraped surface towards the stern, gelcoat should be visible.
Then sanding takes it down the rest of the way as you can see towards the bow.
This one was brutal, the owner had alternating layers of hard and ablative, so it was impossible to get a clean scrape, most scrapes were 1/4" or less per pass.


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Old 04-22-2013
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

Start:

After scraping

You get to see where the pads have rested over the years.

I actually spent time to figure out how to do under the pads

This is all very toxic!

Don't forget fairing

Sanding now done:

Barrier coat, Interprotect 2000e

I had one blister that was new

Freshwater protect, VC17m applied:


Somewhere I have pictures of the tools, include a drag scraper, 5in1 scraper, and a SKILL brand dust collecting sander. You could connect a vac to the sander, but I couldn't figure out how to do that and wrangle a hose too.

Good luck, it's a miserable job.
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

Question on bottom painting.

Say you were to dive and clean the bottom of your boat once a month. And did this for many years without hauling and painting. Would you be able to keep the hull free of hard growth in a aggressive fouling area?
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

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Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
Question on bottom painting.

Say you were to dive and clean the bottom of your boat once a month. And did this for many years without hauling and painting. Would you be able to keep the hull free of hard growth in a aggressive fouling area?
Borderline. I splashed a boat without having time to properly paint and paid to have a diver all season. In the aggressive months around here (mid-summer), it took a lot of effort to clean her up on a monthly dive. The shoulder seasons were fine.
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Old 04-22-2013
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

The problem with frequent cleaning is that you slowly remove some of the paint--assuming its of the ablative variety. After a few seasons of monthly cleanings, you may have gone through a lot of the soft paint.

if it's hard bottom paint, it probably isn't as effective after a season and cleaning it aggressively in the water may help. Certainly you'd at least be removing the fouling.

I've settled on a strategy of a single thin coat of Hydrocoat every year, applied after cleaning--not sanding aggressively--the bottom first. I've got fuzz at the end of the season, but virtually no hard fouling, and it cleans up nicely. Maybe the fresh coat is a key--despite the "multi-season" claims for ablative copolymer bottom paints.
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Old 04-22-2013
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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

I have one thing to add to this thread. Don't buy cheap anti fouling systems. It just does not pay in the long run. Don't ask me how I know this but many moons ago it turned out to be a heck of a lot of work with the cheap stuff.

ATB

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Re: Removing Bottom Paint

I put this on 3 years ago (3 coats):

http://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/mark...WhitePaper.pdf

Very satisfied. Now I am getting hard growth only on the bottom of my lead keel. Not really sure why, but all the paint has come off just on the very bottom of the keel, which then allows hard growth. Need to use metal scraper to remove. I would imagine with monthly cleanings, I could get 2 more years (but plan to haul out withing 6 mos to do some drive line work). Next time I plan to put 5 coats of this on and prep and prime the underside of the lead keel better.
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