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post #1 of 4 Old 04-21-2013 Thread Starter
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Replacing a teak toerail on a C&C Shark 24

I just bought a C&C 1971 Shark 24 in great shape though I need to replace parts of the toerail.
The bow section is a 9ft long 1¼"x5/8 teak molding.
The same molding is installed around the aft deck for 3' on each side and on the transom.
The middle of the boat has a 12' aluminum T-track 1 1/8"x3/8"to take blocks on cars.
The whole rail is bolted with #10 countersunk bolts at 6" on center.

I am considering my options:

- teak is expensive, not easy to get and the quality is variable.
- 1¼"x1/4" or 3/8" 6061 aluminum flat bar is available but might be too stiff to accommodate the bend of the deck.
- 1¼"x1¼"x1/8" or 3/16" aluminum angle might be easier to bend and drill to match the existing holes and is cheaper than the former.
- I have clear ash lying around that I could use to replace the teak. It would be the cheapest option but I would have to preserve it well.

What would you advise to take?

The 4' of rail starting from the bow is still in good shape and I don't know if I should keep it as it will make a kink at the joint with the new piece of rail.

I'd like to provide gaps for the rainwater to exit the deck as it's where the rot starts and the dirt accumulates, especially at the stern but the toerail covers the deck to hull joint and is bolted through toerail, deck, PVC rubrail (T-profile) and hull flange and I don't know how to treat the gaps without covering.

Thanks for your ideas,

Thierry, NS
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Re: Replacing a teak toerail on a C&C Shark 24

Congrats on the Shark.. it was our first boat too, a great starter. Small by today's standards, of course, but easily managed and it's almost like joining a cult

It's difficult to bend anything (wood or metal) in the required curve along it's 'flat' axis. I suspect you'll need some kind of jig or former to bend the angle piece without twisting or kinking.

On our subsequent boat, a Viking 28 we had a similar issue as you have now. On the graphic below on the left is the original factory rail, a flat, bent piece with an attached teak toerail. This was rotten and had been damaged in a couple of spots. I was unable to bend the wood that way, and we modified it to what's on the right.. we could bend the same piece 'on edge' and created the toerail that way, and added the outer section as shown. We did use teak (this was 25 year ago and it was available) and as far as I know it's there still. We cut the vertical piece down to the deck level for drainage here and there.



Doesn't address the 'which wood' issue, but maybe an idea on how to proceed if you choose wood. Not sure what I'd try for in the absence of teak.. whatever you choose that's likely to last will be relatively exotic, I think..

Ron

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post #3 of 4 Old 04-22-2013
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Re: Replacing a teak toerail on a C&C Shark 24

Steaming the wood will help and steaming strips of wood is really quite easy.
You will need a good humidifier and some pvc pipe large enough to put your pieces of wood into. Use sched. 40 or something heavier.
Create a re-sealable chamber with the pipe and some threaded end fittings and connect the humidifier to the chamber.
Place your wood inside the sealed chamber and turn on the humidifier for a few hours.
Remove your pieces from the chamber and place them in a jig that will bend them according to need. Let the pieces dry in the jig and you will have your bent piece of wood.

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post #4 of 4 Old 04-22-2013
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Re: Replacing a teak toerail on a C&C Shark 24

Be careful using any wood that is not naturally rot resistant. Water does collect underneath, even if just in the edges. This is a typical problem in keeping varnish on the toe rail.


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