SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Traveler setup?

5K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  Faster 
#1 ·
How does this traveler work? It is currently one continuous line but I cannot seem to stop and control it where I want to. Should it be two separate lines or different threading? Name is Amioto... Thanks
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 ·
It should work with either a continuous line or individual ones, but you'll need a couple of cleats, one near either end, to lock the traveler car in place. Don't recognize the brand, and the picture's a bit grainy and I don't see any of the cleats you'd need.. but the PO may have led them to something more convenient to the helm??.... It almost looks like there might be a black plastic clam cleat on the inside coaming in the aft corner???
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks faster. Nothing on the coaming. You are seeing the auto helm head holder. Strange but with current setup and both clam ends locked down tight I can still slide the car by hand. Seems something is amiss. Boat is first boat and new to me.
 
#4 ·
Like Faster wrote, all you need are a set of cam, jam or horn cleats near each end of the the traveler. Your set up does not give you much leverage against a loaded up main sail.
This is what we did to our existing traveler track to make it functional.

Traveler Blocks | Odalisque
 
#7 ·
Roger that... Clam cleats on each end. But like I said even when locked down at bothwends I can slide the car even by hand... I agree a threading issue but not sure how to change it...
 
#10 ·
The cleats are working. The rope does not slide inside the cleats Itthink Ineed a nbetter picture so you all can see the threading. Rope does not attach in fixed way to car. It presently just wraps around single blocks twice each side. Let me take a better pic tomorrow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Faster
#12 ·
We have the same traveler system and although the photo is poor it appears that the control lines are not lead properly. The control lines are intended to be independent not continuous. I suspect you will find a hole in the vertical portion of the track near the end stops on either end. These are the points where your control lines originate. The control line should be passed through this hole, from the mast side to aft and a stopper knot made. The running end of the line then runs to and through the lower sheave on the near side of the traveler car, back along the aft side of the track to and through the sheave on the inboard side of the end stop, then back along the front of the track to and through the upper sheave on the near side of the traveler car and then back to and through the outboard sheave and cam cleats on the end stop. The control lines on the opposite side of the traveler are run in a similar fashion. One can actually use a single line for both control lines as long as one leaves a sufficient length of line in a bight between the cam cleats on either end of the track so that, when necessary, say broad reaching, the traveler can side from one end of the track to the other when tacking. The continuous line, or simply tying the ends of the control lines together, allows one to free the line from the opposing cam cleats when one is on the off end of the traveler in a tack. As a practical matter, this type traveler is not terrific in the given application as tension must be applied to the control lines horizontally. In a cockpit, unless the traveler is positioned waist high or better, one is generally better off with control lines that require an upward pull to free or adjust.

FWIW...
 
#13 ·
By enlarging you picture It seems the rope is threaded in a strange way.

He way to thread this depends on the number of sheaves on the end of the track and on the traveller.

Take the whole rope off again.
Start by threading half of the rope trough the cleat on one side (Port)
Take the end of the rope on the aft side of the cleat.
Thread this end through the port upper sheave on you traveller (from aft).
Take same end to port again - if you have a sheave sitting below the cleat thread the rope for to aft through this sheave (if not there should be a place there to make the end fast).
Continue until there are no more sheaves on the end of the track and the port side of traveller. There should be be a point somewhere to make the end fast.

Repeat on starboard side.

You don't need to make this an endless system.
 
#14 ·
RB,
My guess is that it's just not threaded correctly. The ends of the control line should land at the traveller block leaving the continuous line (loop) as the control. The end blocks look like they have built in cam cleats, Do these pop open when you pull the line in one direction (towards the center) and jam when you pull outboard? Was this threaded like this when you bought the boat or maybe the PO just put the line back on to show the boat and did it wrong.

John
 
#17 ·
I have never seen that done... It looks like the lines go around the opposite sides of the traveler. utchuckd has the best example of how the lines should be run. ignore the mainsheet in that, and focus JUST on the traveler.

If you take the ends on the left and the right, and tie them together, you have a "continuous line," that'd be the only way to properly make that continuous. What I am seeing with what you have now is NOT continuous, as you have a defined left and right termination.

But what gets me is how the left side wraps around the traveler car on the right side. Maybe it's a funky picture I dunno.
 
#18 ·
An earlier poster captured what appears to be the case on the OP's recent photo: The lines exit through what appear to be cam cleats and each end of the traveler.

If the cleats are working, that would take care of immobilizing the car. If there is too much friction in the cam cleats, there may not be enough pressure for the cams to "bite" on the line.
 
#19 ·
Pull out the traveler control lines and run them as close as you can to the illustration in Post 16 above.. You may end up with one less part, but the way that's all reeved now is difficult to see and is apparently not working.. I suspect that the cleats are holding fine but the line is reeved in such a way as to allow the car to slide back and forth with the control lines fixed.

The picture isn't clear enough, but starting over should do the trick.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top