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post #21 of 50 Old 05-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

We already have some cushions and they don't reach all the way out to the edge. After sitting in the cockpit for a few minutes that lip starts to cut off circulation to my feet so the lip's coming off. Now I have to figure out if it's easier to use the Fein Multimaster or a grinder.

Blog post about the beginning of the project At Aboard Astraea

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post #22 of 50 Old 05-05-2013
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

I did this same project in 2008 on my Skye 51, replacing my teak with Treadmaster--best money I have put into the boat! In deciding between the colors, know that the sand color I used has made the boat worlds more comfortable in the summer as it has dropped the temperature below decks significantly. Good work tackling it yourself!

Does the lip you are looking to get rid of come right up to the vertical surface of the cockpit? It might be difficult to get a smooth rollover using epoxy and filler, LOTS of sanding at a minimum. I have never tried it but maybe you could use a router and rollover bit if you faired with something soft like West 410 filler but that would be prone to chipping with every day wear and tear.

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post #23 of 50 Old 05-09-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

Obelisk:
The lip does go right up to the edge of the cockpit. I painted that area about a year ago when I replaced the windows. I'm prepared to do a bit of touch up paint around there and see how nicely I can smooth the deck paint in to the side paint, but that's a discussion for a later post when I'm closer to it. I've decided to remove more hardware and the reset of the deck before going in to the lip removal and fairing phase.

Today I removed all the chainplate covers:


Please ignore the drips on the toerail in the background. My varnishing skills are way better than that, it's just how the boat came.

All the covers for the chain plates have been removed and labeled. It took about two hours to unscrew all the plates, then loosen the turnbuckle and lubricate the turnbuckle with lanolin, an antisieze compound.


The tools I used are shown in the pictures, a wrench, electric and manual screwdriver and some pliers.

So here's the project plan as it stands now:
1) Remove the rest of the teak deck mounted hardware
Problem areas are the anchor windlass and bow pulpit and stanchions. They're through bolted, big, heavy or cumbersome so I'll need help with removing them. It's possibly going to get dirty in the cabin when removing this hardware because of the big holes.
Goal Date: Friday, likely finish date Saturday morning
2) Remove teak decks: Same process as before with mallet and hammer
Goal Date: Sunday, I'll have weekend help
3) Remove screws and clean up deck with scrapers and acetone
Goal Date: May 13, 2013
4) Prep Holes
Goal Date: May 15, 2013
5) Fill holes
Goal Date: May 22, 2013

Boy it's going to take a while. Guess I'll need to buy some extra beer and brats and call in the reinforcements.
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post #24 of 50 Old 05-10-2013
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

these pics look all too familiar! good luck getting everything off. just a note about getting the black goo off that remains after the teak is removed--i used a sharp, broad chisel to scrape the majority of the gunk off then used MEK, which worked way better for me than acetone. of course, it causes cancer 3 times as fast, so wear gloves...

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post #25 of 50 Old 05-10-2013
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

Am I to understand from the pic above that your chainplate is held in place with what appears to be wood screws?

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post #26 of 50 Old 05-12-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

Ritchard,
The chiainplate was not held in with wood screws, that's just the cover to keep water out of the chainplate. It's not load bearing at all.

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post #27 of 50 Old 05-12-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid


I tried removing the deck fill for the water tanks, but it's seized up. While holding it with a wrench I started to crush the tube. I need to use some PB Blaster penetrating fluid to break the nut free. If that doesn't work I'm going to cut the fittings off and replace them.


Top view of the water deck fill

My wife and I removed the screws and nuts for the stanchion bases and the jib lead track.




Then she got down to pulling up the teak.


And I got to play on the dock with my 11 month old son.


Yesterday we got all the teak up off the port side deck to the front of the cabintop. All the screws are out, the deck was cleaned of the old sealant, holes drilled and countersunk. We didn't do the jiblead track and stanchion holes yet. That will have to wait until later today or tomorrow.
Today we're taking a break for Mother's Day and going up to the restaurant for brunch.

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post #28 of 50 Old 05-12-2013
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

What a cute boy! Wish your wife happy Mothers Day.
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post #29 of 50 Old 05-12-2013
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

Wow, do those pics bring back memories (nightmares?). Good luck with the project, you'll be justifiably proud when finished, and you'll never have to worry about a wet, rotten core.

Our deck replacement ordeal:







John
SV Laurie Anne

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post #30 of 50 Old 05-13-2013
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Re: Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid

Quote:
Originally Posted by n8kraft View Post
Ritchard,
The chiainplate was not held in with wood screws, that's just the cover to keep water out of the chainplate. It's not load bearing at all.
Of course, how stupid of me. I just removed mine similarly to do some painting. Brain fahrt.

OMG what a huge job you're doing. This may not apply to your boat, but based on my experience over this last winter I have decided that bargain boats that just need a little TLC are often not a bargain at all.

Bashing about on Lake Ontario and Beyond
"Ariel" '79 Endeavour 32

Last edited by Ritchard; 05-13-2013 at 08:43 AM.
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