Through-Hulls - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 54 Old 04-28-2013 Thread Starter
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Through-Hulls

Hello everyone,
I recently purchased my first keelboat, a Pearson 30, hull 225, and I've been having fun tracing out systems, exercising sea-cocks, replacing hoses, etc. I replaced the head suction hose with 3/4" heater hose from the auto shop. I found four seacocks, none of which have been moved in many years, I'm afraid. One raw water to head, one is raw water to sink, one is engine cooling water, and the fourth was the old head overboard which has been closed and sealed off in the hose.
I tried to exercise the three working ones, and was partially successful. The engine cooling water is a 1/4 turn ball valve and works fine. The head suction moved after some persuasion, but the sink water seacock handle broke off in the channel lock jaws. I then backed out the tapered plug and went to the local shop to get a replacement. The shop told me that a replacement plug was probably not available, and that I should just remove the entire seacock and replace it with a 1/4 turn ball valve. They said to be careful that the through hull does not turn - have an assistant hold it on the outside of the hull (two nubs on the ID - jam in a flat handle and hold it with an adjustable wrench?). They said the threads may be straight, not tapered, and the new valve would be tapered threads.
What do you guys recommend? Should I replace the through hull as well? Can I find a replacement tapered plug and save myself some hassle?
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post #2 of 54 Old 04-28-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

Replace them all, and replace the thruhulls at the same time. They are a very important safety device, and you need to make sure every thing operates as designed and all components fit together. Or eliminate the ones you won't be using and repair the hole in the hull. Replacing the fittings might be cheaper and easier.
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post #3 of 54 Old 04-29-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

Replace the whole lot. This is not something you want to fail underway. Some thru-hulls are designed to take a step wrench, on others you may need an internal pipe wrench that has a cam to keep it from turning.
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post #4 of 54 Old 04-29-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

I totally agree. Nothing will ruin your day of sailing faster than sinking

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post #5 of 54 Old 04-29-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

As you are doing this may wish to give thought to creating a manifold ( or several) so multiple needs can be serviced by a single thru hull. Eliminating thru hulls decreases complexity, increases safety. Both good things. Some set up their boats to have the engine cooling on it's own, all salt water domestic on another. and heads separate. You have a blank slate. Use the opportunity to make your life better down the road.
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post #6 of 54 Old 04-29-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

This is NOT something to fool around with!
I just replaced 3 thru-hulls on my boat that had regular ball valves threaded on to them. I cut out a "donut" of 1/2" G10 for a backing plate, shaped it to conform to the hull curvature and epoxied it in place. The bronze seacocks are the GOOD quality Groco's, not the cheaper version that has the chrome plated brass ball. I feel much better now knowing this will always work. I was concerned b/c if something shifted and smacked into the old setup it could have snapped off the thru-hull. You may want to use MARELON; I considered it but the Groco bronze ones are pretty much bulletproof as long as you operate them regularly.
Here is a pic of what it looked like when I was done.



Check out MAINESAILS pics on his thread about thru-hulls.

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post #7 of 54 Old 04-29-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

Dave you do good work. Beautiful installation. What are your rates? (GRIN). Agree with you about marelon. Know they are put in some very fancy boats but somehow feel safer with metal on metal.

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post #8 of 54 Old 04-29-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

"They said to be careful that the through hull does not turn - have an assistant hold it on the outside of the hull (two nubs on the ID - jam in a flat handle and hold it with an adjustable wrench?)" No, use a "step-wrench"

Nice work Dave!
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post #9 of 54 Old 04-29-2013
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Re: Through-Hulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailordave View Post
This is NOT something to fool around with!
I just replaced 3 thru-hulls on my boat that had regular ball valves threaded on to them. I cut out a "donut" of 1/2" G10 for a backing plate, shaped it to conform to the hull curvature and epoxied it in place. The bronze seacocks are the GOOD quality Groco's, not the cheaper version that has the chrome plated brass ball. I feel much better now knowing this will always work. I was concerned b/c if something shifted and smacked into the old setup it could have snapped off the thru-hull. You may want to use MARELON; I considered it but the Groco bronze ones are pretty much bulletproof as long as you operate them regularly.
Here is a pic of what it looked like when I was done.



Check out MAINESAILS pics on his thread about thru-hulls.
Nice work, don't you need to ground the bronze through hull fittings to protect against electrolysis? It's one of the reason I am considering the MARELON fittings when I replace mine.

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post #10 of 54 Old 05-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Through-Hulls

Following everyone's advice here - I removed the old W-C tapered plug seacock and purchased a replacement Groco, and will be installing it this weekend with 5200. Thanks for the input everyone.
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