Installed and tested second automatic bilge pump

[jameswilson29]

Yesterday, I finished the installation and testing of a second automatic bilge pump.

The expertise of members of Sailnet (like Mainesail) has been a good influence on me: I used a heat gun to seal the butt connectors, instead of a lighter, my crimping techniques are much improved from some practice, my use of a direct connection to the battery bank with an waterproof inline fuse, bypassing the main switch and the circuit panel, my use of a vented loop instead of a check valve, etc., etc. Now, I did use corrugated line instead of the recommended smooth bore line because, in this case, the line diameter is not a limiting factor in the pump's capacity.

The video and photos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuKIcxHOqO0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuKIcxHOqO0

Photos: https://plus.google.com/photos/10193...489?banner=pwa

[MastUndSchotbruch]

Originally Posted by jameswilson29

Yesterday, I finished the installation and testing of a second automatic bilge pump.

The expertise of members of Sailnet (like Mainesail) has been a good influence on me: I used a heat gun to seal the butt connectors, instead of a lighter, my crimping techniques are much improved from some practice, my use of a direct connection to the battery bank with an waterproof inline fuse, bypassing the main switch and the circuit panel, my use of a vented loop instead of a check valve, etc., etc. Now, I did use corrugated line instead of the recommended smooth bore line because, in this case, the line diameter is not a limiting factor in the pump's capacity.

The video and photos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuKIcxHOqO0

Photos: https://plus.google.com/photos/10193...489?banner=pwa

why is your new pump shaking so much when it is running? Didn't you screw it down or otherwise secure?

[jameswilson29]

It is not secured. Should it be? It seems to work fine as is.

[MastUndSchotbruch]

Originally Posted by jameswilson29

Yesterday, I finished the installation and testing of a second automatic bilge pump.

The expertise of members of Sailnet (like Mainesail) has been a good influence on me: I used a heat gun to seal the butt connectors, instead of a lighter, my crimping techniques are much improved from some practice, my use of a direct connection to the battery bank with an waterproof inline fuse, bypassing the main switch and the circuit panel, my use of a vented loop instead of a check valve, etc., etc. Now, I did use corrugated line instead of the recommended smooth bore line because, in this case, the line diameter is not a limiting factor in the pump's capacity.

The video and photos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuKIcxHOqO0

Photos: https://plus.google.com/photos/10193...489?banner=pwa

Originally Posted by jameswilson29

It is not secured. Should it be? It seems to work fine as is.

how well will it pump if it tips over, e.g. in heavy seas?

[ccriders]

I'm in the process of installing a new electric bilge pump with float switch and have a couple of questions:
Why did you decide to use the 3-way switch? I purchased the same switch but am now questioning its need. I'm thinking the pump should be wired to the main switch panel and that when I leave the boat I would leave that switch on and the main battery selector in the "both" position.
How did you run the hose and where does it exit the boat?
Did you try to run the wires along the bundle that Pearson installed in the port settee locker?
Thanks
John
Ps. I glued a small disc of starboard to the bottom of the bilge and then screwed the pump to the starboard being careful that the screws did not penetrate the floor of the bilge.

[bblument]

Thanks for posting that. Very helpful.

Barry

[SlowButSteady]

Originally Posted by jameswilson29

It is not secured. Should it be? It seems to work fine as is.

Yes. It should be secured. Think about what happens when the boat heels, and/or you are going upwind into a steep chop.

Ideally, everything in the boat should stay in place if a knockdown/capsize. Few boats are that well prepared, but at the very minimum one should have some confidence that safety gear (such as a bilge pump) will keep operating after a serious event.

[jameswilson29]

Originally Posted by ccriders

I'm in the process of installing a new electric bilge pump with float switch and have a couple of questions:
Why did you decide to use the 3-way switch?

I wanted to be able to test the pump without putting water in the bilge. With the manual switch, I can test it.

Originally Posted by ccriders

I purchased the same switch but am now questioning its need. I'm thinking the pump should be wired to the main switch panel and that when I leave the boat I would leave that switch on and the main battery selector in the "both" position.

My other automatic bilge pump was wired through the main switch panel. I wired this one directly to the battery to make it even more fail safe. I will not forget to leave the battery switch on, I will not forget to leave the right circuit switch on, the pump will work even if the circuit or the switch fail.

Originally Posted by ccriders

How did you run the hose and where does it exit the boat?
Did you try to run the wires along the bundle that Pearson installed in the port settee locker?

I ran the hoses and the wire under the sole to the port side of the forward end of the engine compartment then up a gradual incline about 3 feet into the port cockpit locker to a vented loop just under the cockpit locker lid then down along the side of the cockpit to the transom at approximately the same height as the engine exhaust, above 2 feet about the waterline. The hose was secured with ties wherever I could find a good point to secure it.

Originally Posted by ccriders

Ps. I glued a small disc of starboard to the bottom of the bilge and then screwed the pump to the starboard being careful that the screws did not penetrate the floor of the bilge.

I will probably use the same method as the PO for the other automatic bilge pump and bend a piece of lightweight metal screwed into the rib/stringer just on top of it to hold it in place.

[hellosailor]

A 3-way switch is especially useful when (not if) the float switch fails.

[ccriders]

Originally Posted by jameswilson29

I will probably use the same method as the PO for the other automatic bilge pump and bend a piece of lightweight metal screwed into the rib/stringer just on top of it to hold it in place.

Thanks,
I still cannot decide about the 3-way switch.
Be sure you don't puncture any of the fiberglass encasing the wood stringers and floors as surely rot would ensue.
John