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  #1  
Old 05-19-2013
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Pearson 26 mast support

Hello, all...

Well, the saga continues.. just when I thought I was almost done working/renovating my new-to-me 1972 P26 and could actually launch and start learning to sail....

After a couple generally enjoyable weekends of fixing seams, cracks, and a slightly pitted keel, then bottom painting, compounding and waxing the topsides, rebuilding the bottom half of the 8hp sailmaster, cleaning, etc., I packed up my gear and prepared to start the 90 minute journey home again over the road. Before I left, something I had been chewing on over the past few months since I bought the bought made me go back inside the boat and check something.

What was that, you might ask? ...

Well, the previous owner had replaced the stock door to the head and v-berth area with an accordian-fold fabric curtain. That always bothered me; why do that? It affords less privacy, and, at least to my eyes, doesn't look near as nice as the stock door does in pictures of other boats I've seen. The only thing I could figure was it gave him easier access to the hanging locker, or maybe he thought it made the cabin look roomier. OR... and this is what started bothering me recently... maybe the door stuck and, instead of fixing the problem, he just took it out and threw up a curtain.

Turns out the answer was ... (DING)... the latter. The crossbeam is completely rotted; a 3" pocket knife went in up to the hilt w/ almost no pressure. There's a hole drilled right where the rot is the worst and a thick wire is routed through it; I think it's the antenna wire. That may be the original cause.. who knows.

Does anyone have an experience with this repair on a P26? The vertical posts on either side of the crossbeam seem to be solid, but do not appear to be anchored onto the sole in any way. To my admittedly non-engineer eyeballs, the would seem to be very structural in purpose, are they not?

Any pics this part of a p26 in good condition available anywhere? I've searched quite a bit.. hours and hours.. trying to find specific information about this problem. Dan Pfeiffer's site, this community, Cruisersforum, sailboatowners, Don Casey's books, and Google in general, but am striking out.


Any and all advice, ideas, and offers to help would be gratefully and greatly welcomed. Experienced craftsmen in the upstate NY area willing to do or help with the work would be cheerfully financially compensated

Best to all,

Barry
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Old 05-19-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

The Pearson 26 mast is decked stepped, with a compression post directly underneath the mast, not on either side. I seem to remember there was an accordian-style folding door as original equipment, either between the forepeak and the head or the head and the saloon.

Can you post a photo of yours?
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Old 05-19-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

James,

Thanks for the quick reply. My boat is a little over 90 minutes away by car and I'm planning on going up again on Thursday of this week; I'll snap some specific shots when I get there.

I'm going to attach a couple pics to this post; the one labeled "Pearson Interior" is of my actual boat as depicted on the original for sale site where I found the boat. It's still listed on the site, but I own it now and it's no longer for sale (and I didn't pay close to the asking price... thank goodness).. here's the link...

http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/31486


The other pic is of a Pearson of similar vintage with the solid door I was referencing, labeled Salon3.

My boat definitely has screw holes where the hinges were originally located for the door in the starboard vertical post. I have the original split sliding doors between the head and the V-berth.

You mention that there is only one compression post directly underneath the mast, but I don't see how that is possible. The mast is in the center of the boat, as is the keel mounting plate, but the overhead cross beam is supported on either side of the mast (and the keel plate) by the two vertical members. There is no vertical post directly under the mast. The port post is closest to the mast base and keel plate and I have access to the base of that post, but the starboard post's bottom is buried under the sole and I can't see it. Does my description make any sense?

Thanks again for writing. Hope to read more from you and others soon!

Best to you,

Barry
Attached Thumbnails
Pearson 26 mast support-pearson-interior.jpg   Pearson 26 mast support-salon3.jpg  

Last edited by bblument; 05-19-2013 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 05-19-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

O.K., now I remember the wooden cross member. I would drop the mast, replace the wooden support, add fiberglass to it to strengthen it, and prevent further water ingress. You might want to check the two compression posts for stability and integrity while you are at it.
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

Hello,
I also have a 1972 pearson 26 #484 my door is solid wood.I am a old guy new to sailing.Retired 3 years ago and decided to take up sailing I am presently working on the keel have replaced all keel bolts without dropping the keel and will sandblast it this thursday and i guess epoxy a barrier coat as per Don Casey book. Have you had any experience in this area?
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Old 05-19-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

Hiya, Karlos,

The Don Casey books are great; if you follow his steps, you should be all set. I admit I did sort of a cob job on my keel this time out. My boat is new to me as of last November, and it's on the hard 95 minutes away from my home. My immediate goal is to get it safely sailable, then sail/motor it to the marina I want to keep it at which is only 20 minutes away from my home. Then, after hauling it out in October, I'll go back and do everything right when I can work on it without having to spend almost four hours total on the road to get to it.

The previous owner told me he sandblasted and repainted the keel about five years ago, but he didn't do it right. The keel had some pretty deep pits in it (1/4" or so, and maybe 1/2" wide), and there was no evidence of a barrier coat underneath the bottom paint. I sanded/scrubbed/vacuumed off most of the remaining ablative paint, and ended up exposing a good bit of bare metal. After cleaning the surface, I mixed up some unthickened epoxy and painted all of the bare metal surfaces with it, rubbing it in with rags (sloppy, but I didn't have the recommended wire brush with me) and a lot of pressure. After that, I mixed some epoxy w/ colloidal silica filler to peanut butter consistency and filled and faired all the holes. Let it harden, sanded it smooth (epoxy is HARD... ) w/ a palm sander and 80 grit paper, then painted over it w/ two thick coats of West Marine CCP (or is it CPP? I can never remember.. it's a single season ablative). I know I should have stripped the entire keel down to bare metal then done two coats of a true epoxy-based barrier coat (Interlux 2000?), but I just didn't have the time and figured that this would get me through the season. It looks really good now... we'll see how it holds up.

Can you do me a favor if at all possible? Could you take some closeup shots of the bottom of the posts on either side of your door, where they meet the bilge, and also the top junction of the posts and the bridge/crossbeam? Any close ups of that entire door frame area that you think would be useful would be very much appreciated.

Thanks again.. welcome.

Barry
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Old 05-19-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

Same problem, same setup (two compression posts), different boat....friend of mine rebuild his crossbeam. Dropped the mast first; He used layers of 1/2" marine ply; first layer epoxied in place, second layer added and, with a beam compressing the layers to the correct curve, for added support used bronze screws to hold the two together. Continued until he build up an incredibly strong laminated arch, I don't know how many layers of ply, all epoxied and screwed into a solid unit which he then covered with biaxial cloth for good measure. I was a very impressive and incredibly strong job...now painted, so you can't see the construction, but that is how he went about it. Once you get your head around it, it isn't too hard to do.

Remember if you do drill a hole anywhere on a boat, drill it overlarge, fill with epoxy, and redrill (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck).
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Old 05-20-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

Hi thanks for the reply.I will be going down to my boat for thursday and will get some pics for you.My boat is a hour away on lake champlain upper New York but I live on the canadian side. Karl.
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Old 05-20-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

Karlos, thanks so much. Is your boat anywhere near Rouses Point? I used to get over to Plattsburg fairly frequently when I worked in Lake Placid, NY back in the 80s. My meager claim to 15 minutes of "fame" ... I was the concertmaster (1st chair first violinist) of the 1980 Olympic orchestra. I enjoyed Placid so much that I made it my home and worked as a musician in town until 1984. Anyway, any pics you don't mind taking would be a tremendous help.

Paul, thank YOU very much, too. Your description of the steps to take was very helpful, and the deck hardware bedding link was great.. exactly the specific, step-by-step descriptions for a neophyte like me to get the job done well. MOST appreciated.

Barry
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Old 05-20-2013
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Re: Pearson 26 mast support

Quote:
Originally Posted by bblument View Post
Hello, all...

Well, the saga continues.. just when I thought I was almost done working/renovating my new-to-me 1972 P26 and could actually launch and start learning to sail....

After a couple generally enjoyable weekends of fixing seams, cracks, and a slightly pitted keel, then bottom painting, compounding and waxing the topsides, rebuilding the bottom half of the 8hp sailmaster, cleaning, etc., I packed up my gear and prepared to start the 90 minute journey home again over the road. Before I left, something I had been chewing on over the past few months since I bought the bought made me go back inside the boat and check something.

What was that, you might ask? ...

Well, the previous owner had replaced the stock door to the head and v-berth area with an accordian-fold fabric curtain. That always bothered me; why do that? It affords less privacy, and, at least to my eyes, doesn't look near as nice as the stock door does in pictures of other boats I've seen. The only thing I could figure was it gave him easier access to the hanging locker, or maybe he thought it made the cabin look roomier. OR... and this is what started bothering me recently... maybe the door stuck and, instead of fixing the problem, he just took it out and threw up a curtain.

Turns out the answer was ... (DING)... the latter. The crossbeam is completely rotted; a 3" pocket knife went in up to the hilt w/ almost no pressure. There's a hole drilled right where the rot is the worst and a thick wire is routed through it; I think it's the antenna wire. That may be the original cause.. who knows.

Does anyone have an experience with this repair on a P26? The vertical posts on either side of the crossbeam seem to be solid, but do not appear to be anchored onto the sole in any way. To my admittedly non-engineer eyeballs, the would seem to be very structural in purpose, are they not?

Any pics this part of a p26 in good condition available anywhere? I've searched quite a bit.. hours and hours.. trying to find specific information about this problem. Dan Pfeiffer's site, this community, Cruisersforum, sailboatowners, Don Casey's books, and Google in general, but am striking out.


Any and all advice, ideas, and offers to help would be gratefully and greatly welcomed. Experienced craftsmen in the upstate NY area willing to do or help with the work would be cheerfully financially compensated

Best to all,

Barry
Barry,
I just replaced a bulkhead in my P26. I had to:
Remove mast.
Remove bungs in compression posts to expose philips screw heads that attach the posts to the header beam.
Remove inspection port covers (one on starboard settee, one on raised pedestal for head) to access nuts for the bolts that secure the compression posts down low.
Remove screws attaching posts to bulkheads.
Remove posts (big rubber hammer) with some effort.
Remove two lag bolts from mast step.
Header beam falls on floor.

Remove the old wood veneer wrap from the header beam. I did this with a putty knife.
You will be able to count the layers of marine plywood.
Make up a new blank by layering the same number of 1/2" plywood. Epoxy them together to make your new blank.
Trace the original header beams profile onto the new blank.
Band saw the blank to the rough shape and finish shaping with a belt sander. If you don't have a big bandsaw you could do all the shaping with a belt sander but it would take a while.
Wrap it in a new veneer (I used the preglued iron on veneer from Lowes) and reassemble in reverse order.
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