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post #11 of 20 Old 05-24-2013
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

I agree that it is time to inspect what you've got. That means climbing the mast (hard, since I like to use both halyards with one as a backup), dropping the mast, or looking at it from a neighboring tall structure.

I also had to replace the sheaves on my Catalina 25 for similar reasons. Interestingly the original sheaves on my 2 year newer Pearson 28-2 were in excellent shape. I lubed them and put it all back together.

The hardest part is finding sheaves that fit well. From what I've seen Harken, Schaefer, and Garhauer don't have them. Of course your Ranger 23 could also use a custom masthead with different sized sheaves than the standard mast.

Ronstan has this, which may easily be modified to work (though it is a bit small):
RF1751 |Ronstan Sailboat Hardware US

This is another candidate to evaluate, and would last longer:
RF40000HL |Ronstan Sailboat Hardware US

Neither is in stock at Fisheries Supply, which makes it harder to evaluate them for modification.

If only the center hole on your sheaves ends up being worn (the outside perimeter is okay) and depending on the design, I may be able to rebore them for you and add a brass bushing. I have a lathe in my basement workshop.

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post #12 of 20 Old 05-24-2013
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

Zephyrwerks - The Sheave Factory
they wil know exactly what you need

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post #13 of 20 Old 05-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

Ok. I do have three halyards for safety. A main, jib and spinnaker. How could I look by climbing, aren't they under that crane top or can you see in there? I don't know anything about sheeves but I pictures that top having to come off and to do that you would have to release the fore and backstay. That might not be the case.
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

On both of the boats that I've worked on the rigging is attached to the masthead, not to the masthead cover. The cover can easily be removed with a few screws for inspection. It is just a thin piece of aluminum mostly there to keep rain out of the mast.

Dropping the mast on your boat should be quite easy with the help of a few people.

Most bosun's chairs make it hard to get your head and shoulders above the masthead for easy inspection. If you can attach leg loops or borrow an ATM Mast Climber or some mast steps they do allow it.

If you've never had the mast down I'd probably take that approach. While it is down you can inspect all of the standing rigging, replace the anchor light with an LED, and do anything else that you'd find beneficial. When I did this on my Catalina 25 we dropped the mast in about an hour (starting at 9am, so it was down by 10:15 or so), did 3 hours of work with the mast down, and had it back up a little bit after lunch time.

My Pearson 28-2 has a considerably heavier mast and I had to have a yard do it with a crane.

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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

Ok. I should gather everything I need and drop the mast this summer. Ill bet it is easy. No tabernacle but I have a bunch of copies of the old ranger 23 newsletter and they have an article about dropping the mast and try did it quickly too.

I'm going 7.7 mph right now with no engine and about 2 knot if wind. I fought th current for a while to get to my destination then decided to change destinations.

On a side note, uh another one. Is there any difference between my jib halyard and spinnaker halyard?
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

Quote:
Originally Posted by northoceanbeach View Post

On a side note, uh another one. Is there any difference between my jib halyard and spinnaker halyard?
Yes... jib halyards exit the mast under the forestay, spinnaker halyards should exit the mast, or at least lead from a block above the forestay. On masthead rigs the usually run through a block suspended from a masthead truck extension called a 'crane'.

If you use a jib halyard on a spinnaker it will tend to rub/chafe on.under the forestay as the sail swings around onto a reach, and one of two jibes will be tending to chafe all the time, esp if it's a 'two jib halyard' setup. Jib halyard exits and leads are not intended to take a side load like a spinnaker setup should be.



Ignore the red arrow in the picture but the block shown far left is the spinnaker halyard block, you can see just behind it the jib halyard coming over and off the masthead sheave and heading straight down..
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post #17 of 20 Old 05-25-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

That's exactly what I've got. Crane and all.

Ok. Maybe I'm an idiot. The seller TOLD me about the sticking and howed me how he's been sailing with the spin halyard for the jib and this main halyard with a block attached and run up to the top and another line run through that.

I played with them today and they seem to run free as can be. ??? Was he just old? He was 85. Should I even think twice about it? I've been thinking about addressing this for a while now but when I pull they run. Weird.
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

Have you tried hoisting over the masthead sheaves in the normal fashion and put some load on it? If it still feels OK then great. Spin halyard for jib, esp if it's on a crane is not a good lead angle for the headsail, and hoisting a block and using another halyard seems unnecessarily complicated.

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post #19 of 20 Old 05-25-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

I will try with them today.
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Re: Mast sheeves sticking

Oh they're sticking. Tried raising the jib with some decent wind on it. I would have needed the winch. Where the spin halyard raises it easily.
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