Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26 - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 06-09-2013
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Lightbulb Re: Wood work, etc

Drop board(s) could be quarter or 3/8 inch. That stuff is Really heavy in larger size/thicknesses.

As for wood... you might check into Cumaru.
Cumaru | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)
It's a cousin of teak and is used for outdoor decking as well as indoor flooring. Hard to saw/machine, just like teak (!) - actual hardness is double that of red oak.
About half the cost per bd-ft compared to teak. Find it at major wood flooring suppliers.
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

I also have 3/8" smoked poli cut in 2 pieces for my companionway. It works well and lets just enough light in. If you do decide to use poli have your local glass shop cut it for ya. If a mistake is made, it's at their cost. Having been in the glass business for 20 + yrs I can tell ya, let them eat the cost of "oops".
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

Lots of P 26 stuff here:

Pyxis - Pearson 26
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Re: Wood work, etc

Quote:
Originally Posted by olson34 View Post
Drop board(s) could be quarter or 3/8 inch. That stuff is Really heavy in larger size/thicknesses.

As for wood... you might check into Cumaru.
Cumaru | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)
It's a cousin of teak and is used for outdoor decking as well as indoor flooring. Hard to saw/machine, just like teak (!) - actual hardness is double that of red oak.
About half the cost per bd-ft compared to teak. Find it at major wood flooring suppliers.
I personally wouldn't go any thinner than 3/8. 1/4 would have too much flex and when you put you cut backs in it to prevent water from coming up through the boards it likely won't be enough.
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

Yeah, I think 1/4 inch would be too easy to 'bend out' and wouldn't offer the security you'd want. Ours is a smallish companionway with a single piece 1/2 inch acrylic - it's got some heft.
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

I have the P 26 One Design with the flat cabin top. You probably have the standard P26. I really like the smoked acrylic companionway door. Mine is one piece and is 1/2" thick. Not difficult to handle at all...wife does it just fine. We use the door as a cockpit table. It spans from one side to the other and is large enough for four people to set out a nice spread for lunch.
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

One more thing...if you decide to make a one piece door I would be happy to make a tracing template and mail it to you.
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

I'm really gratefull for the input that kept me from ordering a too heavy/thick door or expensive wood that I couldn't cut with my jig saw (? My wood experience stops at pine/plywood). Looking af the lines of the boat today i realized wood would be a must on a Bristol for instance but more "modern" material for the hatch board wont look bad on a Pearson.Thanks for the great picture RHR1956. I haven't moved much yet for the companionway as I'm just finishing stripping the hull from decades of paint. Chemical stripping did a good job, without creating a huge mess on the boat yard and neighboring boats. I realized she had been barrier coated before : below 5 mm of paint I found a white layer (epoxy ?) that becomes ruberry at the contact of the paint stripper but doesn't turn inti paste like paint does. This can be sanded very easily (sanding also removes the last bits of blue bottom paint that didn't dissolve or re-hardened). However I'm afraid of damaging the gel coat (same color as the hull above the water line) by sanding too much. So... I'm wondering. Would it hurt to leave a clean, thin layer of this old epoxy and cover it with the Interprotect2000E I got ?
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

Oh-also, stripping/scrapping didn't work so well on the kell that has a lot of bumps and is not flat enough. I found a sandblaster for rent and it looks like it would be perfect for the cast iron. Once down to the bare metal and the rust removed, would Interpro 2000 be ready to be applied or is there a better thing to keep corrosion away and prime for anti fouling paint ? Not a lot of DIYers around in my town.. Thanks for all the help !
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Old 06-16-2013
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Re: Wood work, bottom paint, keel bolts on Pearson 26

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Originally Posted by gedaggett View Post
IPE is another wood that is very good in marine conditions. As far as the Acrylic I would suggest going with a smoked polycarbonate. It is a little more expensive but a better product in exposed UV conditions. Polycarbonate and Acrylic both require special consideration when fabricating. Tooling must be very sharp and appropriate for the material or you will get rough edges and or kickback on your machinery. I am a cnc programer and use autocad to make all of my parts with access to the cnc machinery and Tungsten carbide bits it is a breeze. In the garage however it can be painstaking and easy to screw up some very expensive material. It may be easier for you to make some very accurate templates of what you want and send it to a fabricator to make the hatch boards if you go with acrylic or polycarbonate. I work with that stuff all the time so feel free to ask any questions you may have on it.
I'd recommend against polycarbonate (Lexan) - it scratches easily. Acrylic (Plexiglas) is cheaper and better in this application.

People are frequently fooled by the supposed bulletproof quality of Lexan into thinking it's better but for this use it isn't.

Smoked acrylic drop boards are way better than wood in a small boat like yours - the extra light is a big plus and it doesn't require maintenance.
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