I break <-> I fix
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: East Stroudsburg, PA
Thanked 66 Times in 62 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Re: Hull maintenance and painting questions?
Freshwater usually indicates a freshwater anti-fouling bottom... or sometimes teflon racing bottom... There are 2 big criminals to freshwater bottom paint... algae, and zebra muscles. The muscles are the freshwater equivalent to barnacles (not every freshwater venue has them, but a lot do).
The anti-fouling properties in freshwater bottom paint are usually lower copper levels in the paint than the saltwater equivalent.
You CAN use heavy ablative bottom paint for freshwater though, but the repainting schedule is the same regardless. They hold up more or less based upon water temp rather than water type.
If the bottom isn't peeling off, an simple coat-over with the same type paint is sufficient. If it's peeling in several places, then removal is recommended, and a soda-blast or sanding (with respirators) is in order, then Barrier coat to several mills thick, and bottom paint. I've done this work as scraping and sanding, and I'll highly recommend you soda-blast (or pay someone to). It's probably the most miserable work one can do on their boat (although working on an inboard is up there, with outboard a close 2nd, as is removing varnish from teak).
The rest have you covered. If they painted "topsides" then you are relegated to painting it again when it wears, and only soap and water for now... if it's gelcoat or enamel, you can wax it... Gelcoat is preferred (cause if it gets chalky, you just compound polish and wax). For Deck, just swab it... use a light cleanser, or soap and water.
For spars and cleats, marine penetrol works well.
"Rum Line" an S2 7.9 - cheap, fast, trailerable, and paid for.