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post #11 of 33 Old 10-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Help with tired interior

Thanks all. I don't think I will be replacing veneer. Mine is at least real veneer versus the glued on film. I am thinking more along the lines of light sand and then Minwax wipe on poly in either satin or gloss. My concern is sanding creating any unevenness in terms of color. Or more accurately said, the galley already has some unevenness which I fear will only be exacerbated by more Sanding unless I take it all the way back to bare wood and build color again.

That and I am considering adding some limited use of white or some other light colored paint. I would think the bulkhead beside the galley a good candidate for paint as it is most stained. Sort of like an accent wall in a house. In that case I would play off the cushions which will be blue striped material. But I have seen little support here for painting over actual wood. :-)
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Re: Help with tired interior

Our Cape Dory 25 has the "photographed" wood veneer. Rather than painting, we applied 2 coats of a Minwax all-in-one product (stain plus varnish) to the interior. It cleaned everything up nicely and makes it look almost new. You will need to experiment with the different colors they offer; we chose a pecan finish that matched the original color.

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post #13 of 33 Old 10-24-2013
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Re: Help with tired interior

You could maybe compromise with a tinted stain? A light tinted stain should somewhat even out the colors on the wood, and also make the interior a bit more airy.
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post #14 of 33 Old 10-24-2013
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Re: Help with tired interior

Veneer is a PITA even people with experience doing it. I just picked up 1/4 sawn oak veneer to someday make a leaf insert for this old table


The door skin plywood would be much easier to work with. it's basically 1/8" plywood with a veneer face. Making invisible joints in veneer is tough if your not in shop conditions.

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post #15 of 33 Old 10-24-2013
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Re: Help with tired interior

We had the same problem you did, only ours was worse because someone put screw holes in everything for "custom" cabinetry.

I evaluated laying veneer over it all, but concluded it would be expensive and cost too much. So instead, we sanded all the veneer and painted it with oyster white paint. We left all the trim pieces that were wood, as most of them could be sanded and restored. I didn't think I would like it, but it really opened up the interior and gave the interior a good feel.

The result isn't too bad, if I remember, I'll post pictures tonight.
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Re: Help with tired interior

I would start with a scrubbing with TSP, then perhaps a bit of Oxalic acid. this should event the color out. You may have to experiment with different products to see what gets it even. I would then just varnish on top of that. The problem with trying to lighten wood is that it is hard to get it even. Much easier to darken the lighter wood to the color of the darkest.
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post #17 of 33 Old 10-24-2013
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Re: Help with tired interior

Bubblehead.. that old Pearson 'arborite' finish might take a melamine paint quite nicely and allow you to create more of a Herreschoff' look (white bulkheads with wood trim) that would brighten things up considerably. You'd avoid the effort of covering everything over - which can lead to other issues with the required precise fit, exposed edges, modifying trim pieces, etc.. another option, anyway, maybe, depending on your tastes...

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Re: Help with tired interior

I don't like the work of sanding old varnish. For many years I have used a product called Velvit Oil. It soaks into and hardens bare wood. It's also waterproof. Scratches can be sanded out and oiled again without a trace. The advantage of oil is that refinishing is not an event. Refinishing with oil is like dusting.

Velvit Products also makes a refinisher for varnished surfaces.
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Velvit Products Company - supplying you the best wood finish, stain, lacquer, sealer and top coats
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post #19 of 33 Old 10-25-2013
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Re: Help with tired interior

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I don't think I will be replacing veneer. Mine is at least real veneer versus the glued on film. I am thinking more along the lines of light sand and then Minwax wipe on poly in either satin or gloss. My concern is sanding creating any unevenness in terms of color.
I'm glad that you aren't replacing the veneer. I do a lot of veneering and it will not work for you because a) the stick-on veneers won't work over an oily (i.e., teak) substrate, b) the substrate is really dirty and won't allow proper adhesion, and c) you won't be able to vacuum bag unless you deconstruct the interior.

I would not paint either. The result is often a job that looks like what it is - an overpaint of what was once a natural wood finish.

Do not oil the wood. That's how it got into the state that it is. It's only dirty and not that bad off. Don't worry about the uneven-ness. That's largely due to dirt. Start by using an abrasive scotch pad soaked in acetone or lacquer thinner to REALLY clean everything. Then sand lightly with 150 followed by 220 finish on a 5" random orbit sander or by hand. Do not oversand or you'll go right through the veneer. It's easy to do with the 150. Change sand paper frequently, it will clog easily because teak is naturally oily and the wood is dirty. This is not the time to save money. Finish with MinWax satin urethane on low wear areas and MinWax Spar urethane on high wear areas.

This is not a tough job but will take some time, so do it in sections. Don't tackle the whole interior in one shot, cutting corners because it's getting to be a drag (I hate prep and get bored easily, so I write from experience). PM me with any questions. My interior was in poor shape and with patience and time came out ok. See this link: What kind of interior finish
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post #20 of 33 Old 10-25-2013
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Re: Help with tired interior

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Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post
I'm glad that you aren't replacing the veneer. I do a lot of veneering and it will not work for you because a) the stick-on veneers won't work over an oily (i.e., teak) substrate, b) the substrate is really dirty and won't allow proper adhesion, and c) you won't be able to vacuum bag unless you deconstruct the interior.

I would not paint either. The result is often a job that looks like what it is - an overpaint of what was once a natural wood finish.

Do not oil the wood. That's how it got into the state that it is. It's only dirty and not that bad off. Don't worry about the uneven-ness. That's largely due to dirt. Start by using an abrasive scotch pad soaked in acetone or lacquer thinner to REALLY clean everything. Then sand lightly with 150 followed by 220 finish on a 5" random orbit sander or by hand. Do not oversand or you'll go right through the veneer. It's easy to do with the 150. Change sand paper frequently, it will clog easily because teak is naturally oily and the wood is dirty. This is not the time to save money. Finish with MinWax satin urethane on low wear areas and MinWax Spar urethane on high wear areas.

This is not a tough job but will take some time, so do it in sections. Don't tackle the whole interior in one shot, cutting corners because it's getting to be a drag (I hate prep and get bored easily, so I write from experience). PM me with any questions. My interior was in poor shape and with patience and time came out ok. See this link: What kind of interior finish
This is certainly the way to do it to do it right. I think I would scrub it first to see how it looks. One thing I have noticed is a lot of people use gloss and don't sand between coats. It comes out looking very rough. the way that Saberman did it looks great. I have seen lots of boats where it has not been sanded well first and between coats and it shows. Gloss rarely looks good in a remodel, because you just cannot sand it even enough, satin looks like it did when fresh, clean and only had a bit of oil on it. Oil does attract dirt, but it it very easy to apply, but you do need to scrub it bare every few years, just like on exterior teak.

If I had Saber quality woodwork, I would use his method, if I had not quite as nice of woodwork, I would be tempted to scrub it and oil it. Remember it took a lot of years to get like it was. Really depends on how long you are going to keep it if you will reap enough return for the extra work. I sure looks AWESOME when done right though.

Saberman, have you tried any of the rubbed on finish? Sound like it is easier to get a good finish with it.

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