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  #1  
Old 04-02-2014
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Mounting hardware on Boom

I hesitate to post this cuz it demonstrates my abject lack of knowledge.. anyhoooo.

I'm putting a reefing line on my C&C 30. The boom has a block mounted in the appropriate spot just aft of the leech but I'll need to mount a turning block on the luff end to run the line to the base of the mast and into the cockpit.

Relative to the size of the screw, what size pilot holes do I want to drill?
Also, does one have to use a tap to create threads or just push and screw harder till it goes in

Thanks,
Beej
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Old 04-02-2014
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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

On aluminium, you always want to drill and tap. Use fine thread SS screws and use it with tef-gel (or something similar) on the threads to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals.

https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9...tric_converter

TEF-GEL - Ultra safety systems - Home page
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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

I have a C&C 30 (Redwing) and added reefing cheek blocks as well. SVTatia is correct, drill and tap. I found that SS 10x32 bolts tapped and coated with Tef gel (I use Lanocoat) is easy enough. Saw last week they have the taps at Home Depot.

Why not dispense with the turning blocks on the forward end of the boom? If your main hayard is at the mast, it's easier to just hook a reef cringle on a reefing hook. nis approach also reduces the amount of line friction over a single-line reefing approach.
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Old 04-03-2014
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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

Definitely drill and tap as described. When you drill, make sure to mark your hole locations and center punch before trying to drill. Even better, get the first hole tapped and then mount the block with the first machine screw, clamp it and drill and tap through the last three holes with the block in place. Drill the diagonal hole second. It can be tricky, trying to drill on a rounded surface and drilling the holes before you mount the block could well result in the holes being misplaced. Put a stop on your drill bit so you don't drill through something inside the boom.
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Old 04-03-2014
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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

If you are not sure about drilling and tapping then this product is great. One single bit that does both. Easy to use, you just want to take your time and go slow. I've used this on a couple of booms.

Amazon.com: Greenlee DTAPKIT 6-32 to 1/4-20 6-Piece Combination Drill and Tap Set: Home Improvement Amazon.com: Greenlee DTAPKIT 6-32 to 1/4-20 6-Piece Combination Drill and Tap Set: Home Improvement


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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeejDeC View Post
I hesitate to post this cuz it demonstrates my abject lack of knowledge.. anyhoooo.

I'm putting a reefing line on my C&C 30. The boom has a block mounted in the appropriate spot just aft of the leech but I'll need to mount a turning block on the luff end to run the line to the base of the mast and into the cockpit.

Relative to the size of the screw, what size pilot holes do I want to drill?
Also, does one have to use a tap to create threads or just push and screw harder till it goes in

Thanks,
Beej
For my 2nd reef, I did something similar without drilling any holes at all.

I have long shackle connecting my gooseneck to my tack. It prevents the sail from pulling aft when tensioning the outhaul. I just got a Ronstan Series 30 block with a shackle, and hung it off the long shackle.

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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

When drilling a hole to tap do your homework and be sure you are using the correct sized bit for the threads you intend to tap. I've discovered that the ideal bit size is often given in wireguage that may not correspond to a english or metric bit. (home depot does not carry wire guage bits)

The difference may seem miniscule but remember that aluminum is relatively soft, the stainless screw is hard and you don't want ANY play between the two.

Last edited by PhilCarlson; 04-03-2014 at 10:00 AM.
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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

I've had generally bad luck tapping aluminum. In time, the screws seem to always tear out the threads. Instead, I've been using SS rivets. I'd be curious for any thoughts on this.
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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

The correct way to tap ANY metal is to back the tap out often, use oil, and don't try to muscle through. Aluminum is very easy to strip so great care must be taken when getting the tap started. Go until you first feel the threads start to grab and back off, go a LITTLE bit more and back off again. Backing off clears the threads. Until you have a couple of solid threads in, and it's obvious that you are making clean threads, don't dare over-torque or you'll strip the threads right out, eventually winding up with a stripped out hole. Easy-does-it.

I really like s.s. rivets. I bought a heavy duty pop rivet tool and often use rivets. I don't think they are as secure as well threaded holes in thick enough metal but if you're trying to tap aluminum that's less than 1/4" thick, there just aren't many threads in the tapped hole.
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Last edited by smurphny; 04-03-2014 at 12:13 PM.
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Re: Mounting hardware on Boom

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstep192 View Post
I've had generally bad luck tapping aluminum. In time, the screws seem to always tear out the threads. Instead, I've been using SS rivets. I'd be curious for any thoughts on this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
...

I really like s.s. rivets. I bought a heavy duty pop rivet tool and often use rivets. I don't think they are as secure as well threaded holes in thick enough metal but if you're trying to tap aluminum that's less than 1/4" thick, there just aren't many threads in the tapped hole.
This seems to be logical to me in my situation. I have to add many things to my boom but it is on a small boom with far from 1/4'' thick alum. So, stainless rivets were my question. Seems like a much more secure solution. Do you do anything to isolate the SS from the Alum on the rivets?
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