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  #11  
Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

I agree, however not on things like bulkheads and chainplates...I would never say go undersize unless you are using materials that are known to be stronger

one thing thats very noticeable at least on the boats I have had is how little tabbing was done on the oroginal bulkheads in many cases leading to issues like ripped chain plates cracked ribbing etc...

it depends on who built your boat mostly but I can show you pics of my original tabbing on my boat and its like they used scotch tape to hold the bulkheads in place

so most owners are prudent in correcting that and improving the tabbing per se...

anywhoo

in general terms I agree completely the whole go big or go broke themes people do on boats sometimes does more harm than good other than as a placebo

this is especially true regarding rigging and standing rigging...

in any case 1/2 inch like above is a great size...I bet its what you had in there originally

peace
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

For the ribs and stringers, I been wondering about using Trex/Composite Decking, ripped, thinned, and cut to size.

Crazy Idea?

Would the epoxy even stick on the ribs for the tabbing?

Last edited by Kielanders; 06-12-2014 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 06-13-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

Crazy idea - not even particularly cheap. Use epoxy coated ply and do a good job of tabbing it in.

For ribs, just use foam or PVC tube or even cardboard tube as formers and laminate glass over them.
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

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Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
Crazy idea - not even particularly cheap. Use epoxy coated ply and do a good job of tabbing it in.

For ribs, just use foam or PVC tube or even cardboard tube as formers and laminate glass over them.
Not looking for cheap, not looking for top of the line, was trying to think of something that will unquestionably last, and just enjoying considering the options and being a little creative.

Thanks for the thoughts on the ribs, the PVC is an excellent idea I hadn't thought of before.

Last edited by Kielanders; 06-13-2014 at 03:00 AM.
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Old 06-13-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing









For the most part i have never seen a boat were the original thickness was and issue it just got wet

Seafever gets all kinds of abuse and now on its 4 season nothing leaks or creaks
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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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  #16  
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

awesome stuff tommays

kielanders the pvc trick works well....however wood slats are the tradional method...
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Old 06-13-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

Think I'd probably find some dense foam like some polyisocyanurate insulation to form the substrate. I'd just shape it and stick it to the hull inner surface with some contact cement. Then you could glass it in immediately. Don't forget to feather the adjoining glass at a 12:1 ratio. If the glass is 1/4" thick, taper back approx. 3". The first glass layer needs to be the biggest pc.
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

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Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
Think I'd probably find some dense foam like some polyisocyanurate insulation to form the substrate. I'd just shape it and stick it to the hull inner surface with some contact cement. Then you could glass it in immediately. Don't forget to feather the adjoining glass at a 12:1 ratio. If the glass is 1/4" thick, taper back approx. 3". The first glass layer needs to be the biggest pc.
That's a very good way to go but shaping it can be labour intensive. Cutting PVC tube in 1/2 and tacking it in place with hot melt glue is quick & easy, Doesn't weigh anything really and the round shape is easy to glass over. It also holds screws when you fasten a wood ceiling over it - the glass alone is too thin to do it well and foam does nothing.
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

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Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
That's a very good way to go but shaping it can be labour intensive. Cutting PVC tube in 1/2 and tacking it in place with hot melt glue is quick & easy, Doesn't weigh anything really and the round shape is easy to glass over. It also holds screws when you fasten a wood ceiling over it - the glass alone is too thin to do it well and foam does nothing.
It doesn't look like the stringers and "ribs" are 1/2r. in the pix. They look somewhat rectangular but it's hard to tell. If they are, PVC tube would work fine if the right size. I thought some pipe insulation foam might also work if they were 1/2round. The size has got to pretty much on the money to make the layup come out matching. That's why I thought some insulation foam would work. It's easy to shape, unlike a styrofoam, but does make quite a dust mess. It would also bend to conform easier than pvc.
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

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Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
It doesn't look like the stringers and "ribs" are 1/2r. in the pix. They look somewhat rectangular but it's hard to tell. If they are, PVC tube would work fine if the right size. I thought some pipe insulation foam might also work if they were 1/2round. The size has got to pretty much on the money to make the layup come out matching. That's why I thought some insulation foam would work. It's easy to shape, unlike a styrofoam, but does make quite a dust mess. It would also bend to conform easier than pvc.
The 4 stringers (2 each side) do look rectangular, but up close when ground-out, they are about 2.5" wide x 3/4" thick, and either edge was chamfered at 45 degrees before glassing.

The foam type used on this boat was Divinycell, and appears to only have been used on these stringers and the coach roof. The stringers still in the boat do not appear to have been used for mounting hardware of any type from the factory.

My only internal debate with using foam (and I'd like to), is will it and the tabbing provide enough bite for the screws over the wear and tear of time. The foam would definitely be easier to place and conform to the hull for a professional looking install. The wood will be a bigger challenge.

Relief cuts in PVC (to get it to conform) seems like a tempting compromise, though I may want to pre drill to avoid cracking.
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