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Old 06-12-2014
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New Bulkheads & Interior Framing

The interior is gutted, bulkheads are out, and on the home stretch with the grinder.

I'm getting ready to install new bulkheads, and fit the interior with ribs and stringers, keeping it all very basic.

A few questions:

1) There are 2 existing stringers (stiffeners?) on each side attached to the hull that span the length of the boat. Large sections of these are missing/cut-out from a refit with a PO. The stringers are basically a closed cell foam with a 2/3 layer continuous tab. Can I lose these, and expect the newly installed ribs & stringers to provide the support for necessary stiffness?

2) What is the recommended spacing on the ribs?

3) I can't be sure if the old bulkheads were original, but they appear to be. They are 1/2" ply. Should I upsize to 5/8"? Would 3 layers on the continuous tabbing be sufficient?

4) The boat is not in a climate controlled facility. My average daytime temps are in the high 50s low 60s. My average nighttime temps are high 40s to low 50s. Will a low viscosity resin with fast hardener work?
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Update (Boat Specs):

Boat Make: Laurin Koster
LOA/LOD: 28' / 26'
Displacement: 6600 lbs
Mast: 33' / 160 lbs
Link: LAURIN 26 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

The attached line drawing gives the basics, but my my boat was retrofitted with a 2' bowsprit.
Attached Thumbnails
New Bulkhead & Interior Framing-laurin_32_drawing.jpg  
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Last edited by Kielanders; 06-12-2014 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

Some pix would help. There's no way to venture any advice on structural elements without some kind of picture or specs. Those temps are great for epoxy work. I wouldn't use fast or slow hardener unless I wanted to speed up the process but that sometimes results in a smoldering can of gelled resin before you can use it all. Working inside, I hope you have a good organic vapor mask. Most bulkheads I've ever seen in 30-40' boats are 3/4" ply.
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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

Got to know the boat as there are generally more of them to compare notes on

The fast hardener along with some heat lamps should kick it well enough during daylight hours BUT the FULL cure will still be extended

I preferred the MAS high viscosity resin as I found working with 2:1 was more simple as I had to mix many small batches as I worked
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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkheads & Interior Framing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kielanders View Post
The interior is gutted, bulkheads are out, and on the home stretch with the grinder.

I'm getting ready to install new bulkheads, and fit the interior with ribs and stringers, keeping it all very basic.

A few questions:

1) There are 2 existing stringers (stiffeners?) on each side attached to the hull that span the length of the boat. Large sections of these are missing/cut-out from a refit with a PO. The stringers are basically a closed cell foam with a 2/3 layer continuous tab. Can I lose these, and expect the newly installed ribs & stringers to provide the support for necessary stiffness?

2) What is the recommended spacing on the ribs?

3) I can't be sure if the old bulkheads were original, but they appear to be. They are 1/2" ply. Should I upsize to 5/8"? Would 3 layers on the continuous tabbing be sufficient?

4) The boat is not in a climate controlled facility. My average daytime temps are in the high 50s low 60s. My average nighttime temps are high 40s to low 50s. Will a low viscosity resin with fast hardener work?
what size boat?

we did 3/4 inch bulkheads full tab like you want to do...on my islander 36

much better tabbed to the hull than original plus we used foam to gap the bulkheads from the hull

time will tell if its a decent job I guess
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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

Forgot the specs guys, apologies:

Boat Make: Laurin Koster
LOA/LOD: 28' / 26'
Displacement: 6600 lbs
Mast: 33' / 160 lbs
Link: LAURIN 26 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

Yes, I have a $50 3m paint/organic respirator (with many replacement cartridges & prefilters), goggles, and tyvek suit.

I used MAS Epoxy on a kayak kit years ago and liked it, but we can't get it easily up here, so I was going to go with West System since it's available.

I'll get some recent interior photos posted later today.

The attached line drawing gives the basics, but my my boat was retrofitted with a 2' bowsprit.

Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
New Bulkhead & Interior Framing-laurin_32_drawing.jpg  

Last edited by Kielanders; 06-12-2014 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

Photos:
Attached Thumbnails
New Bulkhead & Interior Framing-p1010001.jpg   New Bulkhead & Interior Framing-p1010002.jpg   New Bulkhead & Interior Framing-p1010003.jpg   New Bulkhead & Interior Framing-p1010004.jpg   New Bulkhead & Interior Framing-p1010005.jpg  

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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kielanders View Post
Forgot the specs guys, apologies:

Boat Make: Laurin Koster
LOA/LOD: 28' / 26'
Displacement: 6600 lbs
Mast: 33' / 160 lbs
Link: LAURIN 26 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

Yes, I have a $50 3m paint/organic respirator (with many replacement cartridges & prefilters), goggles, and tyvek suit.

I used MAS Epoxy on a kayak kit years ago and liked it, but we can't get it easily up here, so I was going to go with West System since it's available.

I'll get some recent interior photos posted later today.

The attached line drawing gives the basics, but my my boat was retrofitted with a 2' bowsprit.

Thanks.
That's the respirator I use and have not had any problem. Have never used epoxy other than West System because it has always worked so well. Epoxy, as you probably know, can be nasty. When I forget or am too lazy to dig for the respirator, even for a small job, it can give me a wicked headache. Same with 2 part paints.

I'd probably redo the stringers where they've cut away. They were put there for a reason and it's no big deal to do it now. I'd also use 3/4" ply for bulkheads. It gives you some meat to work with as far as framing openings. Certainly use it if you're going to put in any watertight bulkheads, which might be something to consider. It's not as if a few pounds is going to make much difference.
Nice looking boat. Good luck with the refit.
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Last edited by smurphny; 06-12-2014 at 03:35 PM.
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

awesome looking boat...stout....

x2 on advice...3/4 inch bulkheads will be really strong for your boat...

good luck!
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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

now that I remember I think I went 7/8ths or an inch on the main bulkheads and 3/4 on the forwards for the lowers...

there are some pics on my islander 36 refit thread
Islander 36 projects in paradise!!!!!

if it helps any...its not a pro job but its perfect for what they are designed to do...I also made new plates at the time.

in any case op your boat reminds me of a folkboat...I miss mine dearly! jajaja
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Last edited by christian.hess; 06-12-2014 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 06-12-2014
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Re: New Bulkhead & Interior Framing

3/4" bulkheads would be excessive on a boat that size. 1/2" is plenty. Triple tabbing of 1708 biaxial would be super strong - double tabbing would be plenty good.

Don't fall into the amateurs trap of "a little stronger, a little beefier" - it's a fast way to a slow, overweight boat. You should always be looking for ways to lighten things up, not increase their weight & size.
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