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"Maybe" but I most likely will buy it. get a cap and racks. eventually maybe a trailer and or boat on a trailer. but for now! It's MsWdnBoats back to small boats!
Don't want no overhead camshaft 4.0
Do want OHV 4.0 and this one has that engine 93 Ranger 120 K on the od
Price is right. comes via way of a friend and it's owned by a mechanic that has done verifiable work on it. Craigslist just wasn't helping with my search.
He seems pretty honest. he's also done allot of work on my Van that I sold to a friend in my YC this is how the "beast" came my way, it was his daily driver. Apparently Dave (his name) is self employed doing auto repairs for T&M So I want to give him work. Gotta be tough without a garage lifts for some of the things he does. He also used to build racing engines. So... Maybe I got a keeper for my mechanical work that My bro in law and I can't do.
I was thinking of going for the electric. cost isn't that much higher. but I'll go with the clutch.
clyde, I've always wondered, if we have a cooler do you HAVE still run the fluid through the Rad connections? Just seems it would cool better without 180-200 degree water keeping it hot.
Edit; picked up the new clutch there is a distinct and better difference with the new one even though its not been installed yet.
Paul's basically right. Even at 180-200 deg F, it's cooler than what a really hardworking trans could run, plus in cold weather it helps it reach optimal operating temp faster. I suspect (although I'm guessing here) that even though the temp difference between trans fluid and radiator fluid is smaller than the temp difference between trans fluid and air that the radiator loop extracts more heat because of the significantly higher heat transfer coefficient of water than air.
In other words, if the highly trained engineers at the auto manufacturers all do it that way, there's probably a good reason! ;-)
denise-
I don't know that truck or engine, but you might want to ask your mechanic. Sometimes, with that much mileage, it pays to change the water pump while you are doing other work. Typically you would have to remove and replace the fan and clutch, over an hour's labor, just to access the water pump. And that's half the labor cost involved.
So considering the mileage? It might be good PM to do the pump at the same time. And replace the belts with new ones, if they also are being removed/reinstalled during the procedure.
FWIW.
Nah, if we were reading your mind, we'd have asked "And how old is the timing belt?" as well.(G)
Oxygen sensor for the ECU and a number of other things may be due for replacement by 100k, worth looking into. The oxygen sensor and fuel airflow sensor (or whatever it has) tend to wear out rather than die, making the engine way less efficient and stealing power, as they get past lifetime. Often simpler to replace than to diagnose, sad to say. Seems like diagnostics is another lost art these days, right alongside blacksmithing.
We talked and he feels awful that the fan clutch is bad, is very sure the head gasket/s are not the problem And, the water pump was done. So I'm quite sure the fan clutch will solve the problems.
Hellos, it's a Timing chain, it's older style V6. :grin
denise-
Chain, belt...same same. A friend of mine had an old (69?) GTO with a 400 (440?) 4bbl engine back when it was barely secondhand, and he found out that engine had a timing chain. Conveniently installed in the back of the engine, requiring an engine hoist to change it, as it was consumed every 40,000 miles.
I've a feeling he's done the chain too. It's a pretty quite engine. without the fan noise it's easy to tell how quiet it is. This one reason I looked for the older V6. the newer ones have all kinds of roller chains for the overhead cams.
I may be a little nuts but I tow my 1500 pound boat with my 88 vette vert already had a hitch because towed a motorcycle trailer for road trips. Enough engine and brakes.. so far so good and lots of fun when not towing the boat!
Yee Haw! I now have a truck with NORMAL running temperature! My body shop guy friend looked at it and was VERY impressed with how little rust the beast has. I also noticed the rear has blocks under the springs which explains why it's so high in the back. They need to come out, I don't see me ever needing that kind riding height.
Spray or DIY bed liner coating? I'm leaning towards that because the plastic liners are just so slippery.
AND the beast will have a cap over the bed in short order.
Yee Haw! I now have a truck with NORMAL running temperature! My body shop guy friend looked at it and was VERY impressed with how little rush the beast has. I also noticed the rear has blocks under the springs which explains why it's so high in the back. They need to come out, I don't see me ever needing that kind riding height.
Spray or DIY bed liner coating? I'm leaning towards that because the plastic liners are just so slippery.
AND the beast will have a cap over the bed in short order.
Ok it's official my friends! Meet the Beast! 1993 Ranger, very little rust, new shocks, new thermostat, & fan clutch, brakes all around, new fuel pump, new shocks 4.0liter V6 Auto, 4WD, AND under $3000, and 130k ( low mileage for a ranger ) cruise cntrl, AND the A/C works!
The correct size tires are a killer in price. No wonder everyone runs smaller tires. But the speedo is off too much for my comfort. can't seem to find different ratio speedo gears. The have to be out there.
update! still loving this beast! Did have some major brake issues. dragging Rear ABS "RABS"
warped rotor, bad front wheel bearing, bad parking brake cables. But it's fixed .. still has other issues but I can at least drive it beyond local areas.
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