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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest > General Discussion (sailing related)
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  #11  
Old 08-11-2006
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Thanks. The shape is virtually the same, a rectangle, although before it slid down fore and aft all at once and now it slides down aft. I agree it should be easier to tack and I think I need to lower it more. I am now about 9 inches below the skeg and I think I could double that.
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Old 08-11-2006
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If the centerboard pivot point is located in the wrong place, it may be lowering almost completely, and that would shift the Center of Lateral Resistance forward, not aft...think of it as a rectangle. If the rectangle pivots 90 degrees, then the geometric center is far further forward than if it pivots just 60 degrees or just drops parallel. That would make it much more difficult to tack. Might want to check that.
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2006
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How does your boat sit in the water? Level? Stern heavy? Bow heavy? Take a look with you and typical crew on her. See if she is sitting stern heavy. Maybe some chain in the locker??? Sounds like a lot of sail area for that sized boat too. If the boat is sitting stern heavy she will have a tendency to "wobble" about a tack.
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Old 08-11-2006
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If you are stalling as you come head to wind

maybe you want to consider easing the jib/genoa and let the aft sail(s) help you around then sheet in.
Free advice - Worth what you pay.
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Old 08-11-2006
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The Whitehalls that I have sailed have had a long fairly deep keelson and planked were planked down in the stem and onto the skeg in the stern. This was intended to help them track straight when being rowed but which also made these boats hard to turn under sail. The whitehall that I knew best, had semi-circular centerboard (pivoted at the front) that probably extended roughly 2 feet below the boat when fully down. The boat would not tack reliably undless the board was in the fully down position.

Complicating things was the fact that whitehalls have an easily driven hull, a rig with a lot of windage, and turning the long keel quickly makes a lot of turbulance, and so they lose a lot of speed during the tack. It is important to "carve the turn" rather than trying to make a quick tack.

Adding a bowprit and jib will only add more windage slowing the boat further and making it harder to get head to wind. On the other hand if you can get head to wind, you should be able to back the jib and get the boat to pay around. Not a great way to sail because you can get caught back winded and be over before you regain steerage.

As several others have said, I would guess that the problem is with your centerboard modifications and that adding a jib and bowsprit is an unnecessary complication.

Jeff

Last edited by Jeff_H; 08-11-2006 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 08-12-2006
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I once had a converted lifeboat that had too wide a turning radius. I designed and employed a drop-down extension on its rudder (made from 1/4" aluminum) and it made a huge difference. The boat responded immediately and much more positively to the tiller. I raised and lowered the extension with a line that ran over the rudder stock and to a cam cleat on the tiller itself.
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