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  #11  
Old 09-07-2006
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It doesn't look like there was a any type of swan neck or anti surge on the exhaust in the boat. Looks pretty straight to the exhaust manifold. In any case now, the engine's out and will be redone.

I'll make sure to get an anti-surge solution before reinstalling.
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  #12  
Old 09-11-2006
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Hi,

I am in the middle of trying to resurrect my MD11C. It has had a variety of symptoms over a couple of years which I have finally traced to a blown cylinder head gasket on the front cylinder. Unfortunately I think the head needs to be skimmed as there is a deep groove in the head at the point where the gasket went.
On taking it apart I am amazed at the stuff which is in the manifold - it is almost like solid metal. Indeed it has reduced the size of the apertures in the water channels that lead from the head into the manifold by about 1/3.
I notice in Blue Eagle's pictures that the same has occurred in his manifold. In mine the channel from the manifold into the lower part of the thermostat housing is completely blocked and I had thought it was cast that way! This also explains some of the overheating problems I have had..
I am wondering whether there is any virtue in taking my barrels off while I am at it to clean out the water galleries or is this likely to be unrewarding. I am doing this with the engine in situ and dont want to give myself an impossible task.

Cheers
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  #13  
Old 09-12-2006
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Hi Crabbit,

Quote:
Originally Posted by CRABBIT
I notice in Blue Eagle's pictures that the same has occurred in his manifold. In mine the channel from the manifold into the lower part of the thermostat housing is completely blocked and I had thought it was cast that way!
Uh.... I think it might've been too! lol - I drilled the hole in the end of the manifold out when I rebuilt the engine - it was completely closed off on mine too (although it DID have a very manky rubber seal in there) However the tube it connects to in the housing doesn't seem to go anywhere .
if this hole isn't open though, there would be no water flow at all with the thermostat shut so I opened it up thinking that the worst that would happen is that I'd create an additional leak risk if it wasn't supposed to be open.

Interestingly, my engine is raw water cooled, and although I am based in Hong Kong where the ambient water temperature gets up to 24 or 25 degrees celsius (centigrade, whatever) in the summer, I never have any problems with overheating - quite the reverse in fact, the engine never seems to get really warm - about 1/3 to 1/2 the way up the green band is the best I can manage.

If I were you, I'd deal with the wire-drawing on the cylinder head (assuming that it hasn't gone too deep, and remembering that the more material you take off the bottom of the cylinder head, the more shims you'll have to put under the cylinder to keep the compression ratio right (and to avoid having the piston smack into the valves at TDC) oops, big parenthesis) first. Then:
1) Check / clean your raw water through-hull inlet opening,
2) Check / clean the raw water filter,
3) Flush the heat exchanger if you have one,
4) Bleed the freshwater cooling loop of all air and top the expansion tank up (again, if you have a heat exchanger)
5) Replace the raw-water impeller,
6) Test / replace the thermostat - it should open at the temperature stamped on its body - about 70 degrees C?

I don't know how you plan on cleaning the waterways on the cylinders out, but when you figure it out, let me know! lol - I didn't bother and the engine seems to run ok.

It's a bit of a pig to start actually, but that's probably down to not having quite the right shimming under the mechanical fuel pump, or under the cylinders (I didn't have a depth-micrometer to hand for the rebuild) or the fact that the high pressure pump needs overhauling since I didn't do that at overhaul either, reasoning that I could save a couple of bob and some time and it wouldn't be difficult to do it later if necessary. As it turned out I probably only did save a couple of bob as the local Bosch agent turned out to be surprisingly cheap - about 90 US to have two injectors overhauled, one new nozzle fitted and two reground (I now have one emergency spare) - versus 250 odd pounds sterling (I seem to recall) from Volvo for a new one - however much it was it was more arms and legs than I could spare at the time!!

Cheers,

Blue Eagle
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  #14  
Old 09-12-2006
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Ntheyer...

As the owner of a Volvo MD17c (the later 3 cylinder version of your twin), you are going to get into some serious cost to ressurrect that engine of yours.

Volvo parts are shocking in price.... I mean absolutely shocking. In 1997 I split the exhaust manifold on my unit. Volvo wanted, back then, a staggering £1300 just for the manifold. That's about $2340.

A cylinder barrel, yesterday!, is £389.... $700. A cylinder head gasket, yesterday, £56... $100. The O-ring kit for one liner, yesterday, is also $100.

Imagine the gasket bill alone for your engine.

Once you start talking about crankshaft re-grinds and re-bores, you are going to be off the clock.

I really would think seriously about buying a new engine, or another unit, and I speak from experience, twice over. Every time you split one of those mating surfaces, that's the sort of cost you'll be into.

And be very careful about skimming heads. If that groove you speak of is deep, you really will upset your bumping clearances for the piston, and you will have to shim the cylinder base to accomodate the change. Don't over skim it. You are going to need a micrometer to re-set the bumping clearances, and it's not your average micrometer either.

I can speak highly of the power unit mechanically, but repairs can be so expensive you walk out of the dealer with a glaze, you will see with a squint, and talk hoarsely for about two weeks. You are warned.

Think it through there Ntheyer, and get that calculator out.
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  #15  
Old 09-30-2006
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Hi,

I have the warm glow today of a man with a working volvo though I am covered in bruises and my knees wont straighten.
I replaced my cylinder head and with a second hand one from ebay. I also cleared out the manifold galleries that were blocked. The orifices into the injector cooling galleries were completely blocked as was the one from the manifold to the thermostat bypass channel.
The hardest bit was refitting the water pipe from the pump to the manifold - a very nasty job in an enclosed space. When I got it done there was water leaking from every junction so I have also replaced all the hoses.
After setting the tappets etc it is now running sweet a nut. The only problem I have is that it is running too cold now and I am regretting dispensing with the thermostat.
The engine is now running better than it ever has with much better power output.


Cheers

Crabbit
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Old 06-24-2007
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I have siezed my MD11C through overheating and oil loss during a particularly long chug to France.

I cannot decide whether to take the engine out and rebuild over winter, or to try to find a reconditioned one, or even to re-engine the boat with a yanmar, or similar.
I have the time and the abilty to rebuild, but I worry that I may have ruined the motor beyond repair..
Do you guys have any suggestions?
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2007
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Mike-

You'd probably be better off starting your own thread rather than reviving a dead thread on a similar subject.
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  #18  
Old 06-24-2007
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Mike, you'd need a mechanic with an experienced eye to take a look at the engine. Sometimes this means pulling the head and eyeballing the cylinder walls for damage. Sometimes they can pull an injector (or glow plug) and look inside with a borescope, so there's no head-pulling needed.

After that expert opinion on how much work is needed...you can make a more informed decision. If the engine WAS in good shape and WAS adequate for your needs, rebuilding might be the way to go, depending on estimates to do that. Whenever you replace an engine with a different model/type, there's almost always custom bedwork and fittings and other things that will add perhaps a couple of three grand more than you expected.

As to rebuilding yours vs swapping in another one...At least you know what your own engine history has been. With a swap out, there's no advantage unless it comes with a long strong warranty (ha) or your own engine really has been trashed.

First you need a reliable set of eyes to get inside the head and see what's doing in there.
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Old 03-12-2010
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Volvo MD11C

I sell my volvo MD11C. I am living in BELGIUM.
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Old 03-12-2010
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Volvo MD11C

I sell my MD11C. Anybody intressed make your offer. I am living in Belgium
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