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My boat needs a new cockpit.

25K views 134 replies 43 participants last post by  TomMaine 
#1 · (Edited)
Our old 1961 Alden Challenger yawl is Alden's first glass hull and deck. The rest of the boat - like the cockpit which has rotted beyond repair - is built of wood.

I have a plan to build a new cockpit, off the boat, in a warm shop. Using a template carefully scribed to fit the perimeter of the coamings and cabin at the bridge/seat deck height,...



...that has been my pattern for a new cockpit built of 3/4" Marine plywood(you can see the template hanging overhead).



The old cockpit was a joy to use, but it had some design problems as well as the fact it was losing strength all around.



This project has been an opportunity to fix what I didn't like in the old cockpit; a better seat channel drain system,...



...trapazoid shaped locker lids for better stowage and access, a stronger all around platform for working the boat(every inch of a cockpit gets walked on). I'm looking forward to a drier, stronger cockpit.



Plus it has been fun to study similar boats and countless photos of cockpit design. Tropical hardwoods like Teak are expensive! I've cut my veneer decking and trim out of Ipe lumber, a very hard, dense and rot resistant species that is 1/3rd the cost of teak wood.

Here, the 'planks' are dry fit. Next, the planks are set in epoxy and the screws are refastened(they act as temporary clamps).



Once the epoxy is dry, the screws are removed - the pilot holes bored to 3/8" to the full depth of the Ipe decking(1/2"), and full depth plugs set in epoxy. The whole deck, including the cockpit sole, sanded flush and the 1/8" seams caulked with traditional black rubber sealant.



The final trick is the outer perimeter Ipe margin trim boards - that won't be adhered in epoxy - will be removed. This spring the new cockpit will be lowered into the void(I haven't plowed out that void yet,...). The outer perimeter of the 3/4" ply will be epoxied and fastened to a perimeter ledge to be installed(later).

Finally, the perimeter margin deck boards will be epoxied in place - sanded - and the last outer seams caulked and finished. The binnacle - manhole - etc. replaced in pre fitted holes cut in the shop. Work so far has been a pleasure at this standing height. It would be a brutal task to do onboard, especially outside in a Maine winter.
 
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#5 ·
My, that IS good looking!
Noticed the choice of a less-expensive version of teak-like planking.
It has been about five years since we did a major remodel of out house and needed to source solid flooring that would fit the budget. We found Cumaru.
I found a short description from the 'net:
"Cumaru, also known as Brazilian Teak or Golden Teak, is a naturally durable Brazilian timber with a density similar to Ipe. Its consistent golden brown color and moderate cost make it an attractive alternate to more expensive hardwoods such as Teak or Ipe."

Anyhow, the look is wonderful, and almost indistinguishable from true teak.

It was affordable (well, as much as anything could be considered affordable on large project like this...) and the Admiral loves it. The wood dealer told me it had a hardness number that was twice that of red oak.
As for resisting dents and scratches, I believe it.

So carry on. That's a veritable piece of Fine Art you are sailing !!
:)

Regards,
Loren
 
#12 ·
Absolutely beautiful, great skills, you should just continue on and build the whole damn boat, it would surely look better than original.
 
#18 ·
Will do.

This project is much more labor intensive than I expected. The long coastal Maine winter is working in my favor. Spring is beyond hope at this point and I feel no time pressure(yet). A few hours here, a few hours there.



And finally all the upper deck pieces are fitted.



Then - section by section - , the pieces come off, cleaned with acetone(Ipe is oily like teak) and brushed with thickened epoxy(both surfaces), and get fastened back in place.



Then a few days later, the screws are removed, their pilot holes bored out to 3/8" x 1/2" deep, and Ipe plugs - in epoxy - are inserted.



...and a few days later, the plugs are cut off flush and the surface is flattened by 40 grit paper(the Ipe laughed at 60 grit). Then a quick pass with 60 grit and it's already smooth as glass. This wood is so hard, I think I can toss the winch handle into it and not make a dent.



The Ipe is extremely tight grained(shows in this close up) and dense. It should wear like iron.

 
#23 ·
Tom did you mill all the boards too? Is this stuff as hard on saws and tools as teak? or harder? Was it difficult to source? Priced comparably?
 
#27 ·
I bought the Ipe primarily for it's price and availability. 1/3rd the cost of Teak, I was able to order it through my local lumber supplier and have it delivered in a day or two.

Ipe is in fact 3 times harder than teak(according to it's Janka rating). That makes it tougher on tools. It takes a slow feed rate to resaw on my 14" bandsaw. I cut all the parts out of 2x6" Ipe stock, both on a 10" table saw with a carbide blade and a bandsaw with a standard, sharp blade.

I would have preferred to use teak or in fact a few other substitutes for easier working(which I've uncovered since).

But all in all, I haven't found the Ipe as hard to work as some of the accounts I've read. It cuts smoothly(if a bit slower), hand planes well and the edge shapes nicely without tearing out. I'm pleased how flat and smooth it sands.
 
#32 ·
You know the best part of a Job like this is how much more you enjoy the Boat once its done. People just want to touch it when they see that kind of work. I know what you mean about the coarse sandpaper, you need to get the cut done fast so it stays flat. The oily woods just clog fine paper. I don't use the rubber sanding blocks a chunk of hardwood works best.
 
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