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post #11 of 24 Old 11-14-2006 Thread Starter
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The boat is 27'. And it looks as though the owner simply rolled on the paint in the areas that are painted. It is exactly a botched DIY job, or an unfinished one in the least. Here I was thinking I could simply paint over it in a weekend. Maybe I won't have a second look at the boat....
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post #12 of 24 Old 11-14-2006
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It can be done, but you have to ask yourself, is it worth all the work?
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post #13 of 24 Old 11-14-2006
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I'm in the middle of painting my 27' boat, which doesn't make me an expert but I am learning.

I work every weekend on it. I get a coat of paint on once a week, usually on Sunday. Sometimes if I'm lucky I can get it prepped (sanded) one or two evenings during the week, then paint Friday night and again Sunday. I'm using Interlux perfection paint, and by all appearances it is a very fine paint. I'm using the roll and tip method and I'm very pleased with the results. After the initial prep work of finding and filling all of the little nicks and dings (and there were a lot more than it looked like) I applied 3 coats of epoxy primer. Each coat of primer required a sanding with 220 grit paper. I used a random orbital sander for 2 coats, but wet sanded with a sanding block on one coat just to make it as straight as possible. Orbital sanding took about 4-5 hours, hand sanding took twice that.

Then came the white boot stripe. Each coat had to be wet sanded with 400 between coats. The paint had to dry (inside my shop) for at least 18 hours before it would sand without balling up. 3 coats later and I wet sanded the stripe with 1000 grit paper.

Then came the dark blue. Same process as the white except I got some 600 grit paper for my orbital for the first 2 coats. I've got my second coat of blue on, and I'll do 4 coats because it doesn't cover all that well. Then I'll hit it with the 1000 grit, then a buffer.

They say you can roll and tip the paint for professional results. It's true that the paint does shine well enough with a roller and brush. The shine really is impressive. The problem is keeping the dirt out of it. My shop just isn't clean enough to keep the paint clean, so I have to sand it out and buff.

If you really want to buy someone elses nightmare, at least now you know how big the party is.

BTW scaffolding helps a lot.
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post #14 of 24 Old 11-14-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jotun
The boat is 27'. And it looks as though the owner simply rolled on the paint in the areas that are painted. It is exactly a botched DIY job, or an unfinished one in the least. Here I was thinking I could simply paint over it in a weekend. Maybe I won't have a second look at the boat....
You might be able to paint over it in one weekend, but you'll need five or ten weekends to properly prepare the hull for the paint!! If you do this painting for the first time, my advice is to paint it white as white will be the most forgiving of mistakes...
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post #15 of 24 Old 11-15-2006 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input everyone. The paint, however, is in a few areas on the topsides only. It's seems like a much smaller job than the hull would be.
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post #16 of 24 Old 11-15-2006
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Few areas ...only

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jotun
Thanks for the input everyone. The paint, however, is in a few areas on the topsides only. It's seems like a much smaller job than the hull would be.
Jotun,

I guess your comment is unclear - so what if the paint is ONLY in a few areas - if the way it is right now is not satisfactory, then a satisfactory correction for the way it is right now would likely be to paint the entire hull...or what is the tread about?
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post #17 of 24 Old 11-15-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jotun
Thanks for the input everyone. The paint, however, is in a few areas on the topsides only. It's seems like a much smaller job than the hull would be.
Are you confusing the topsides with the deck? The topsides are the hull sides above the water line.
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post #18 of 24 Old 11-15-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog
BTW, one thing that hasn't been mentioned here that probably should be. If any significant repairs were done using epoxy, to re-build or repair the deck or topsides, then paint is the only alternative. Epoxy is highly susceptible to UV damage and must be protected, however, gelcoat won't stick to epoxy...so paint is your only real choice.
This isn't necessarily true, according to Epoxy Works Inc, gelcoat does indeed adhere to epoxy. Real world test with data is here:

http://www.epoxyworks.com/22/polyester.html


Rick in Florida
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post #19 of 24 Old 11-15-2006
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Rick-

Most gelcoat manufacturers advise against using gelcoat on epoxy from what I've seen, and it even says so on the Epoxyworks page you've posted a link of.

Further, the tests you show only have 9 weeks worth of data. I would be far less skeptical and far more likely to accept the results if they had data from a wider variety of boats, rather than just test laminates, which are not subjected to the stress that boat hulls and decks are, and if the tests were for longer than two months. Also, in some of the graphs, the strength of the bond drops over 10%, which I certainly would consider significant. Particularly note that most of the graphs peak and then trend downwards. IF this trend continues, even at a decelerating rate, the amount of strength lost in the bond over a year would be highly significant.

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Last edited by sailingdog; 11-15-2006 at 12:10 PM.
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post #20 of 24 Old 11-15-2006
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I would suggest that you take a few minutes and read the article. The PATTI test results are impressive, and will rewrite all the textbooks.

Do you have any idea of the liability this company would incurr if this data isn't solid?

Really..... think this through before insisting that hard data is wrong and you're the one who's right.

Unbelievable

Rick in Florida

Last edited by Rickm505; 11-15-2006 at 12:36 PM.
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