Damage repair for winter storage, how? - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 11-16-2006
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Damage repair for winter storage, how?

My T30 needs to be hauled out to winter storage in the next few days. Before I can winterize her I need to fix the holes in her hull to deck joint. There is a 4 ft. section of hull to deck joint that has been completely destroyed when she broke free of her moorings and pounded into a sea wall. I've included some pictures. The hole is not that big but the problem is that I can't just cover it. Since I need to cut out that entire area in the spring to fix the problem, I've been thinking about using expanding spray foam to patch up the hole (GreatStuff expanding foam with some sort of backing board to prevent it from oozing downt the hull). Then I was going to cover the whole boat. I'm really open to suggestions here, I've never done this.
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Old 11-16-2006
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I would be very leery of using the expanding foam. I am aware that it can cause further damage due to its expansive nature. That being said, it appears that you could incorporate this for a temporary seal assuming the expansion will come OUT the hole. Hobie 16's have a tendancy toward delamination of the foam sandwich "deck" forward of the front pylons. There is a very simple cure for this which is injecting "Git Rot", an epoxy product. Some have use the expanding foam (Great Stuff) and completely destroyed their hulls (even with the required "breather holes").
If you are waiting till Spring to do the repair and you plan on covering the entire boat for winter, why not just do that: Cover the entire boat for winter and wait till Spring and perform the repair properly the first time 'round?
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Old 11-16-2006
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I agree with Parley. Cover it and fix it in the spring. If you want to seal it temporarily, my friend used duct tape on a similar hole about 1 1/2 feet long, and it stayed sealed through the heavy fall rains.
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Old 11-16-2006
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I think I would try the Duct tape first. It's fast, easy, and cheap. If that doesn't work I would try to locate a roofing material call ( I think ) "Peal and Seal" It is VERY stickey and water proof. Down side, it would be harder to remove later, however, if you are going to have to do some sanding in the spring I wouldn't worry about it. Last option, fill hole as much as posible with a strip of wood or other backing material and finish with silicone to prevent water intrusion. A bit messy but silicone can be removed w/ knife and Goof Off in spring for final repair.

I think the Duct tape or Duck tape and plastic would be my first try if I were you.
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i would use blocks of wood 2 by what ever you have. use dry wall screws into the wood top first then from the hull side to pull it back together, then duck itand repair in spring. the reason for the blocks is to keep the shape and especially to keep the deck from sagging if you get water on there that does not drain.
regards mike
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Old 11-16-2006
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I think the duct tape is a better idea than the expanding foam, which may cause more problems than it solves. Mike's point about supporting the hull and topsides with some blocking is also a pretty good one. Any holes you drill to hold the wood blocks in place will be fixed when you repair the existing damage.
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Old 11-16-2006
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Yeah, I had reservations about the foam too. I've seen the stuff open up cracks in drywall. The damage isn't actually a separation though. What happened is that because the way the deck to hull joint is made, the impact on the toerail ripped the whole thing out. So what is seen is a missing section of the joint. The entire section needs to be cut out and glassed back together so messy is not a problem. My concern is that I can't store the boat where I can get to it easily meaning that it will be left unmonitored for months at a time. I need a fix that is strong and fairly tenacious. I was planning on using wooden supports over the deck and under, but I need something fill that gap. Peel and seal sounds interesting. Is it like butyl rubber tape?
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Old 11-16-2006
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If you use the expanding foam, and it is free to expand without pushing anything, it does make a great patch/glue material. You will want to cover it because it degrades under UV exposure, even a coat of paint would be enough. But, it is also damned hard to clean up and remove.

I think I'd rather take strips of plain cheesecloth (i.e. bandage cloth) a dunk them in plain beeswax, which seals and adheres very nicely, flexs a bit, and can easily be cleaned off in the spring. You can buy beeswax as "toilet seal rings" in any hardware store if it is't otherwise sold locally and cheaply, you don't need the food grade stuff for this. Think of this as biodegradable "fiberglass" done with less durable materials.

Duct tape isn't meant for long term exposure, I wouldn't trust it for the winter. Aluminum or stainless "gutter repair" tape is better for that, it can last close to forever but it also is going to cost more. And since it is a foil tape, it won't conform as easily as the waxed fabric.
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Old 11-17-2006
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The Peal and Seal is a very stickey rubber like membrane. It is often used on small areas of flat roofs or as a seal to prevent ice/snow intrusion under shingles. It will stick to almost anything and can have screws driven thru it with threat of leak.
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cover the boat with shrink wrap. totally seals out rain and show which will be a huge problem if it gets in.
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