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What is the deal...

3K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  canoeman256 
#1 ·
What is the deal with bottom paint? All of them can't be the best, all at the same time, in every sort of water, on every type of boat. Or can they?

I've just bought a fiberglass Catalina 22 which has spent it's life in fresh water. According to the previous owner, the last time the bottom was painted is unknown, therefore, it's time to paint the bottom. Which type, what sort, what kind of bottom paint should I be looking at? I'm a bit overwhelmed with all that's available out there, but I don't really know which ones I should consider and which ones are not suitable.

Also, does it have to be sprayed on or can it be brushed/rolled on?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm new to this and I want to learn as much as I can.

Canoeman256
 
#2 ·
There are many choices, depending upon your particular situation. I would recommend that you start by doing some research into the different bottom paint manufacturer's websites and then streamline your specific questions here. With the past four boats, my preferences and favorable experiences were with Interlux.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

Welcome to the world of boat courtship and best wishes for a long and successful romance.
 
#3 ·
With bottom paints nowadays, it is possible to get a very smooth bottom by simply rolling. We use VC-17. (Freshwater/Great Lakes Region)
Very easy to use and reapply.
 
#5 ·
canoeman,
You mentioned the boat was only used in fresh water by the previous owner(s), but did not specify where you will keep her. If sailed in a high fouling salt water environment, I recommend an ablative . . . avoiding the grueling, annual paint removal ritual.

I've had great results from Interlux Micron Extra with Biolux. As with all bottom paints, the performance success can only be as good as the level of preparation exercised, so follow product recommendations very carefully.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the info

I appreciate the input. I forgot to mention that I'll be freshwater sailing as well. The previous owner had the boat for 3 years and didn't bottom coat it and didn't know when it had been done prior to that.

I like the idea of rolling on the paint, but I'll have to do some more studying. I didn't think about any coating under the bottom paint. I guess that before I start sanding i'd better do some more reading, huh?
 
#8 ·
I've always sailed fresh water lakes and have been very pleased with VC17. I've sanded the boats down to bare gel and applied VC Tar as a barrier coat and then applied the VC 17. I've sprayed and rolled it on. Both applications look great and have very little algea/scum after a summer in the water. What is on it, comes off with a pressure washer in very little time. If needed in the spring, scuff the bottom with a scotch-brite pad and roll another coat on. Quick, easy and pricey.
 
#9 ·
Canoeman, I wish you had asked a SIMPLE and NON-CONTROVERSIAL question like "Which is the real god?" <G>

Everything else aside, the question of which bottom paint is best is going to depend on:
-What grows in your local water
-What the chemistry of your local water is
(Salty? Acidic? Basic? Lots of runoff?)
-How you use your boat (out often? Slowly? At speed?)
-How fast, or is there, local current or tidal action?

And if you get a chance to play with those variables in a lab, I'm sure you could determine "the best" single paint for any one set of conditions. The problem is, the real world tends to differ from the lab.<G> The best advice that I can think of, is to start by finding local sailors, who are in your waters, who have spent years trying different bottom paints in them. Start with what they've found works, then experiment once you have a baseline to compare with--if it isn't working well enough for you.
Spraying or rolling and tipping will give you a faster smoother bottom if you are racing. But, if you just want to sail, you can roll most of it on and that will work well enough. Anything else means twice the labor (or hands) plus some learning curve. By all means, try for the smoother bottom IF you don't mind investing that time.
If you don't know what the old bottom paint is, there are limits on what "might" stick on top of it. You may prefer to strip all the old paint off first, so you're starting with a "known good" clean start, and many years less paint to drag around. New boat, new start on the bottom paint. Why not.
 
#11 ·
In our area - fresh water/high algae - VC17 is far and away the first choice. VC17 is not for salt water and has to be completely removed if you want to change to another anti-fouling. It is as stated above very easy to apply with brush and/or roller but very difficult to remove.
 
#12 ·
It also depends on whether the boat is going to stay in the water, be hauled out seasonally, or be kept on a trailer. Most hard paints will 'deactivate' if they're removed from the water... and then require re-painting. Ablatives are good for most trailerable boats that aren't stored on a trailer, since they can be hauled without needing re-painting. If you keep it on the trailer, a Teflon-based anti-fouling may be all you need, rather than a more toxic, copper-based, paint.
 
#14 ·
Jones2r-

You might want to look at C-Guard or CopperCoat. Both are made in the UK, and are designed to be very long-life bottom paints—lasting 7+ years after painting, and can withstand multiple haulouts without needing to be re-painted.
 
#15 ·
"Why doesn't someone invent "
I'm one of the many folks who have done exactly that. It's so SIMPLE too! I invented my formula nearly twenty years ago, and live comfortable off the annuity payments that the paint companies make to me so I'll keep my product off the market, so they can sell you theirs every year again and again. <WEG>

It works out very nicely for both of us.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the input. The boat has been kept in a slip, full time, for at least the last 4 years (prior to that, I'm not sure) and in fresh water. Based on what I can see there is a good bit of slime on the bottom. I'll know more when I get it on the trailer in mid January. The bottom paint on it now, or what's left of it, is ablative paint, source unknown. I didn't know that until this morning. Does that mean that I have to sand it all off to change paints or if I don't sand it all off I have to stay with ablative? Also, if I power wash it to get all the slime off, will that remove the rest of the paint on it now?

I forgot to mention that I intend to keep the boat in a slip as well, but i'll probably trailer it until spring of next year. That'll give me some time to do this painting and some other things with the boat at my shop.

The VC17 sounds good. I don't intend to race, but I do want it to be as smooth as possible. I also build wood canoes and I suppose the need for a "perfect" finish is a holdover from that activity.

Thanks again for all your time and input. I appreciate it.

Canorman256
 
#17 ·
You and I are in a similar spot. I pulled my S2 in October, but have not had time to paint. During the powerwash after the haul, it became apparent that I have some type of ablative (unknown and @ 3 years old), so based on the Interlux compatibility chart, I will go back with Bottomkote. The Trilux sounds great but I do not want to strip everything off--just do a medium sand and repaint.
 
#18 ·
Canoeman, if you are used to hand-rubbed shines you might want to look at Baltoplate. Folks disagree about it, but for trailer boats it will give you a beautiful graphite-gray ultra-smooth bottom, if you invest the effort in longboarding it and using really fine grits. Still the smoothest bottom I've ever seen, but that may also reflect the crew that uses it.
 
#19 ·
Barrier Coating

canoeman256 said:
I appreciate the input. .... I didn't think about any coating under the bottom paint. I guess that before I start sanding i'd better do some more reading, huh?
If the boat has no evidence of a blister problem then I think trying to add a barrier coating would be a complete waste of time. Since the first step in that process is removing ALL of the existing paint, it could be a LOT of time. Go sailing instead.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the input. I guess the first step remains to get the boat out of the water and take a look at it. If there aren't any blisters, I'm going back on with an ablative paint. That seems to be the easiest, quickest solution. It also seems to be the one which will get me back on the water the fastest, which, after all is the point isn't it.

The boat's got to be moved out of the slip by about the 3rd weekend in January so I'll put it on the trailer then. Still not sure whether I'll trailer it for the 1st year or not. I'm leaning toward a slip in a different marina. I hate the thoughts of having to waste good sailing time on rigging the boat every time.

I'll keep y'all posted on the progress.

Canoeman256
BTW: I have developed a terminal case of spring fever!!!
 
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