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  #41  
Old 12-14-2006
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Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice
Mine, is a bag type, and has 2 handles on one side and 2 more at 90ş. To protect it and stay out of the way, it is inside the main cockpit compartment. (between the wheels I have a sail compartment that is enormous). The problem was to retrieve it in a emergency as you have to open the horizontal door (lid). What I did was I installed it upright inside and tied a cable to one the handles of the bag, and the other end is attached to inside of the door, so you can just crack open the door, and reach the liferaft puling cable

The reason was that in a rail it will get underwater sometimes (I horse shoe bouyey open once!!) and it was in the rail behind the wheel. On the cabin, it was not practical for my boat.

For racing the liferaft stays in the dock, so mobility was a must. However, if I was going to cruise for long. The over cabin would be my solution, just in case.
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  #42  
Old 12-14-2006
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sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
Liferafts shouldn't be stored on the rails...Hellosailor's point about it getting taken from the boat, just as you might need it is a very good one. There is a reason that they should be lashed to the deck, or stored in a locker.

I would go with loops rather than carabiners on a jackline. The loops are softer and stronger than most carabiners are. One problem I can see with Hello's advice on wetting the jacklines before rigging them, is if you tension them and they shrink, they may do bad things to whatever they're attached to.

Also, if you do opt for the flat webbing jacklines, rather than ones that have a line or cable running through the webbing, don't forget to twist the webbing about ten times, as this will prevent them from vibrating and humming/slapping in the wind. Pete Goss forgot to do this on one of his single-handed races, and ended up cutting his jacklines as the noise was driving him crazy.

Also, the aft end of the jacklines should generally be about a tether length foward of the end of the boat. This is to help prevent you from falling overboard and getting dragged by the tether...which will generally result in you drowning.

I would also highly recommend installing some padeyes within the cockpit, that allow you to clip on before you exit the companionway. In really bad weather, you don't want to have to come all the way up to clip in. If these padeyes are also located so that they help brace you for steering the boat, that is ideal.

The jacklines should run so that you don't have to unclip to go foward. I prefer the tethers with the two legs (1m and 2m) and that have shock cord running in the legs to retract them out of the way when not in use. Also, make sure that the tethers have a standard snap shackle, that can be released under load at the body side, and a safety clip, like the Wichard or Gibb, on the boat side. The plain spring clips can come unclipped and are not considered safe to use anymore.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #43  
Old 12-14-2006
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"if you tension them and they shrink, they may do bad things to whatever they're attached to. " There's a lot of stretch in nylon, but not a lot of force in the shrinkage. Anything that's going to pull loose from, is better pulled loose as the slack goes out of the jackline, than pulled loose when a 200# crew takes a plunge with a couple of hundred pounds of water helping him accelerate. If jacklines aren't taught when they are wet--they'll be sagging, and that lets you down closer to wrong side of the lee rail.

OTOH if you could find KEVLAR webbing...that stuff is supposed to actually shrink when wet, ideal for the job of taking out slack in bad wx.
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  #44  
Old 12-14-2006
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Hey Blue...just thinking about this whole liferaft vs. dinghy thing. I tend to agree that the rail mount is not the best place for the raft...but I'd rather have one there than a dingy in davits...everything has to go somewhere and that is the lesser of two evils if you want a hard case dinghy.
On the other hand...you could get a bag type raft and store it while you are at sea just in the cockpit in front of the binnacle. When you come into harbor and offload the dink, you can move the raft to the front of the mast (w/ my suggestion putting a sun cover over the bag). This would save you probably close to a grand for case, cradle, mount and labor.
I think the whole jackline thing is a tempest in a teapot. Get whatever lines you want...tie or clip 'em on to strong points...make sure you are tethered in. Enjoy the sail!
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  #45  
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Yeah I have been running it over in my mind a couple of times. This is where the treads com in handy. You get different points of view and then come up with a good solution. I got four of the cuising guides today. I'll probably be up all night reading because I am so excited......ooohhh wife might not like that.
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  #46  
Old 12-15-2006
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hellosailor-

This is why I prefer the nylon webbing with a 1/4" or 5/16" spectra line running through the center. The webbing makes it easy to identify the jackline, but eliminates most of the problems with it rolling about underfoot. The spectra line makes it non-stretch...
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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