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post #1 of 8 Old 12-23-2006 Thread Starter
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preserving teak

I have a new boat coming in this spring and I want some opinions (based on first hand experience) on how to best preserve the teak cockpit floor and the teak toe rail. I keep getting conflicting advise, some say use Cetol varnish and others say go with teak oil..........so I am perplexed as to which way to go. I want to keep it's new look and not turn grey at all. I am also interested in knowing the up keep necessary for any recommended application.
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-24-2006
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Please don't take this the wrong way as we are all a helpful bunch here but this topic is best read if you do a search on this forum and read the 200 answers you will see with every pro, con there is on teak including my own comments on my own results.
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-24-2006
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My boat is teak all over, and I DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICALS at all.

Just good old mother nature Salt Water. If you can, have a look at my photos on member's galleries and see for yourself.

I don't even bother washing the boat with fresh water after I sail.

Go on, go have a look!! Silver it is!

The SOLE AND ONLY purpose of teak is to avoid slipping and falling on your BUTT, (some might use it to sell boats due to its looks, I don't care) if you varnish it, it looses its PURPOSE. OK?

I agree it looks good, but that's a "perks".

I just remeber, that some of you in the US sail in fresh water, in that case.... disregard my post, as this "preacher" preaches to salties only!!

Now, if you use chemicals once, just once, you will be a slave of your teak ALL YOUR LIFE.

Teak has natural oils that will surface when needed. These oils will cause mildew. Salt water helps avoiding it.

Been around (never chemicalled!!!) teak deck for over 20 years.
Please don't put anything on it, really.

Look at some of the old boats's teak. what did they use???? salt water, my friend, salt water.

And if someone here disagrees, good for them, I don't care. I will still use mother nature's resources.

After writting this I just remembered that some of you in the US sail in fresh water. If that is your case, disregard my post as this "preacher" only preaches to salties.

Last edited by Giulietta; 12-24-2006 at 08:26 AM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-24-2006
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Congrats on your new ride....

I prefer not to talk (post) about politics, religion or teak! As you have stated everyone is an expert. Here are two great reference/how to books:

BRIGHTWORK
The Art of Finishing Wood.
Rebecca J. Wittman
International Marine
Camden. Maine.

The Hinckley Guide to Yacht Care
Henry Hinckley III
International Marine.

You basically have five choices:
awlbright,
rubbed effect (oiled),
gloss varnish,
satin varnish and
natural (grey) look.

If the teak is exposed to the elements it will turn its grey (bleached) color unless it is protected by varnish and/or oil. For teak to keep its "fresh cut/ sanded look" without the oil and/or varnish you will have to use cleaners and/or sand frequently. The cleaners attack the wood, in some cases the anodizing and the paint (both topsides and bottom). Since most new boats do not come with solid teak decks, sanding often is a harmful option.

How the different teak areas of your boat are finished will be your choice. Try to get over the need to have the "fresh sanded look" on your decks.

CETOL...... I hate the stuff. The CETOL I have seen used is a paint for all practical purposes. It replaces the beautiful color of the wood with a baby diarrhea color that is a bear to remove.

Enjoy your new boat .... Happy Holidays.

George Llop
S/Y BANDOLERA
1958 41' PHILLIP RHODES BOUNTY II

BETAMARINE
DIESEL PROPULSION & GENERATORS
Mobile: (786) 443 5567
Fax: (786) 221 3986

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post #5 of 8 Old 12-24-2006
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With due respect George, you haven't seen Cetol done right then. Take a look at my boat and you will see that it can look pretty damn good. The SECRET is NO MORE than two coats of Cetol on bare wood followed by multiple coats of Cetol Gloss (no color)...then touch up with gloss only. What you have seen happens when people slap on season after season of regular Cetol. I do NOT claim it is as pretty as Varnish....but it is WAY WAY less work. Simply take a scrub pad and touch up the Cetol gloss. No sanding...no 7 coats every 6 months.
Getting back to Benny's question...since you are talking about a cockpit SOLE...you are either gonna have a lot of regular work with ANY finish or just clean and oil as necessary. For the rails...my Cetol method above provides a much better looking finish than oil, with less maintenance than either oil or varnish. Some people will say to use the 2-part finishes which look terriffic on application, but one the edges start to lift then you have another REALLY big job ahead.
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-24-2006
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For the cockpit sole (and teak decks), I use a mix of 1/3 Olympic deck stain (carmel), 1/3 Semco Natural, 1/3 Teak Wonder .... applied over freshly sanded teak. Well keep most of the original teak color, will not turn grey, will still have 'good' anti-slip ability, can be cleaned with solft brush, mild detergent (and a wee bit of oxalic acid) .... and will last 1 or 2 seasons. If you have old original "scotchguard", add a little clear sun-block and just apply and let dry (original scotchguard was removed from the marketplace due to grave environmental concerns ... dont bother to use the 'new' Scotchguard).

For the rails, consider to use "Honey Teak" and if applied THICK willl last approx 5-6 years, look like varnish, ... only needs a yearly quick overcoat with clear or can be powerbuffed. .... or if you want to make a Hinckley blush: flat sand with 2000 grit wet & dry, then hand-rub with rotten stone and water then lightly powerbuff with 3M "perfect-it".

Oil is a good finish if you use a 'resinated' (varnish, etc. added) oil, easy to apply (thick) will last two years (needs about 6 thick coats) ... until it oxidizes and turns dark/black but it EASILY removed by applying a paste of TSP. Resinated Oil, especially with a tung oil base, can be hand-rubbed (see above) to produce a finish that *exceeds* the gloss of 'good' varnish.

For any finish ('cept butt-ugly Cetol, etc.) you can promote dazzling-brilliant 'irridescence' of the underlying wood cells by hand rubbing the finish (until hot) - just a bare hand, a little 'rotten-stone' and a little water. Thats how they do it on mega-yachts and private jets, etc. If you want such a finish just dont laydown a coating or two then just walk away... wait until the coating fully cures, then *finish the job* by flat-sanding & hand-rubbing, etc.
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post #7 of 8 Old 10-01-2010
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Maintenance of teak wood

I am new around here and i am no expert about boats but i do know about teak wood itself.I have teak wood furniture in my garden and to keep it in good shape every year when the weather turns bad,i follow the steps below.

Best way to take care of your outdoor teak wood furniture.

If you plan to leave the furniture outside all year round,you must ensure that it is robust enough to withstand extremes of weather.The specifications for the materials construction and finish needs to be very different from that of pieces for interior use.

Left on its own without maintenance,teak wood furniture will weather and eventually turn a soft grey colour and sometimes it will turn a greenish colour.In order to prolong the life and appearance of your teak wood furniture, it is vital that you treat the wood atleast once a year.The best way to treat teak furniture is:

1.Wash it with a mild soap and warm water.You can use any mild soap or detergent.Washing the wood removes the surface dirt and also mold,mildew and surface oxidation.
2.Rinse the wood with a garden hose,(don’t use a jet wash) thoroughly to remove all dirt and soap residue and let the furniture dry overnight.
3.Sand down the wood with a fine grain sandpaper.Sand with the grain ,never against it.Only sand enough of the teak wood surface, so that it exposes its natural colour of the wood.
4.Wipe of all the residual sawdust, using a clean, dry soft cloth.Be sure to clean the sawdust in corners and where the pieces of teak wood overlaps.
5.Use a soft-bristle paint brush to apply a coat of teakwood oil to all of the exposed surface.Apply oil liberally, don’t over saturate the wood.
6.Allow first coat to dry for a least one day, then apply the second coat.Continue until your teak furniture is the colour you want it to be.

With a little bit of maintainence and care you should get many years of enjoyment from your outdoor teak furniture.

Malkit Ram

Publisher,allteakboutique.com
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-26-2010
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teak wood

I thought i'll share with you some interesting facts about history of teak wood.
Teak Wood boasts both rubber and silica in its makeup, which means it is ideal for ship decks and boats as it will give traction when wet, where any other wood simply becomes slippery. It is easy to infer, then, that teak is the wood of choice among those who enjoy maritime pursuits. In fact, teak’s lack of splintering under gunfire is what endeared it so much to naval sailors in the 1800s, who were, during times of battle, being killed more often by splintering wood than enemy fire.
The Chinese of the Ming Dynasty used teak extensively in their ship fleets, too, and this tradition continued into modern day, where the battleships of the United States Navy continue to be decked in teak to prevent slippage.

Malkit Ram

Publisher,allteakboutique.com
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