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After purchasing sailboat

4K views 39 replies 18 participants last post by  SHNOOL 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey Everyone,

I posted a discussion a few days ago but I don't think I got my point across. I am pretty well trained in sailing many types of sailboats but this is the first time that I have owned one. The internet has a lot of lists and tips for buying a used boat but what about after already acquired boat? What do I need to look for? I just got a San Juan 21 (I). I have some time before I can get to the boat and haven't seen it in person yet. I want to put a list together of things to check. I know the best thing will be to get it in the water but I would like to make sure things check out on land. Also, it is on an old trailer so what should I look for on that?

I have finally visited the SJ and there is good news and bad news. Good news is (most) of the blocks and other hardware are in good shape. Bad news is the trailer is not as well as the inside. I have added a picture to show the bunks of the trailer. one part of it is detached and the connecting peace is rusted.... The wood is also rotted through. I have to move the boat about 20 minutes no highway to get it into the water. Can I rig the trailer or replace the piece and hope for the best down the road? Any suggestions would be great.
 

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#4 ·
On a 21' "free" boat, a surveyor will be a big expense. A SJ-21 is a pretty simple boat. I'm sure if you posted a lot of pictures here, many could offer you advice on what needs to be addressed first. Have you checked out the self-survey thread? The stuff you typically look at pre-purchase still apply if you have been given the boat.

My first questions would be only structural- how's the swing keel, how's the mast step, how's the chainplates, etc. etc. I've seen lots of ugly boats that are in good structural shape so don't be discouraged if the boat is ugly/dirty.
 
#7 ·
Should put your location in your profile. No idea if where I shop would do you any good.
It comes down mostly to this - Do I need it right away and don't mind paying a bit more or can I order it on-line and wait for it to arrive.
 
#11 · (Edited)
On the trailer, are you going to pull it far? The bearings could heat up and seize if they have not been maintained. Personally, I am a big fan of the devices that allow one to insert grease with a grease gun. Others like to pack the bearings by hand....very dirty job. I give all my trailers several grease gun squirts a year.

You can place your hand on the trailer bearing hub and check for heat. If it is hot/hot that could be a huge problem.

Trailer tires are made of a soft rubber that is designed to last a long time. Visually inspect them of course.

Why get a survey on a free boat? Fix up the trailer and bring it home. Trailers are usually always worth something. Boats are another story.
 
#13 ·
On the trailer, are you going to pull it far? The bearings could heat up and seize if they have not been maintained. Personally, I am a big fan of the devices that allow one to insert grease with a grease gun. Others like to pack the bearings by hand....very dirty job. I give all my trailers several grease gun squirts a year.

You can place your hand on the trailer bearing hub and check for heat. If it is hot/hot that could be a huge problem.

Trailer tires are made of a soft rubber that is designed to last a long time. Visually inspect them of course.

Why get a survey on a free boat? Fix up the trailer and bring it home. Trailers are usually always worth something. Boats are another story.
The above are excellent points on the trailer. A lot of time spent on the boat can all go to waste when you seize a bearing going down the interstate. Do you plan to trailer sail this boat or leave in the water? If trailer sailing, a simple mast raising system might be something to work on (provided the boat is in good shape).
 
#14 ·
Small boats with outboard motors are not that complicated. Do you have any boat owning friends in the area? Maybe just invite one of them over for beer and pizza to inspect and dry sail the boat? You might have to lift the boat of the trailer to check the swing keel - that is something you absolutely must do before you go sailing. To lift the boat get a couple of 4x4s, bunch of cinderblocks (16) and one or two car jacks. Make sure blocks are sitting on the ground level, and put some padding on the 4x4s where the hull will be touching. Nothing to it.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I can grease the trailer but how do I know if the bearings are shot without moving it? I was thinking of going ahead and changing them just in case but it would be nice to know. It would be about a 30 minute drive no highway to the storage area and yes I would be trailer sailing it. I have seen a few systems on the sj21 for raising the mast. I know it seems like a small question but would I raise the mast on shore or in the water? I have seen people do both but dont know if there are cons for doing either ( without the problem of phone lines).
 
#24 ·
A little trick I learned many years ago. Assuming your bearings are in good shape, when you spin the wheel, obviously, it should spin freely, but when it comes to a stop, there should be a slight movement backwards. If not, the axle nut is on too tight and needs to be backed off until you get that backwards movement.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Easy and cheap insurance to replace wheel bearings. Always repack bearings by hand you want the grease packed in the races, filling the hub won't do it. Although it will help keep water out when you submerge the trailer to launch. Only takes a few minutes to do the job properly and you can inspect everything at the same time.
Depends on the boat AND the ramp as to if you raise the mast on water or trailer. I trailer sailed for years and did it both ways depending. Sometimes you have powerline issues above boat ramps. Usually only have power boaters in mind......
 
#22 ·
You're going into this with a good attitude, don't think you'll have many problems as you seem to have an open mind and are willing to listen to people who have experience they are willing to share.
Best of luck and keep asking. Nice to help people who appreciate it.
 
#26 ·
I raised it once and it was a pain. I will probably do that to start and get a good solo raise system before I do it on the water, again if no power lines to block it. I saw something of using the jib down haul to step the mast which looks worthy.
 
#27 ·
I would definitely raise the mast on land. A SJ-21 is a fairly tender boat, even with the keel down so stepping the mast in the water might be tricky. We have several 21's at our club and I've seen the mast raised (with no assistance device) with two people pretty easily. Just a matter of how many friends you have willing to help!
 
#28 ·
If you're going to be towing this thing regularly, new bearings and new tires. You'll find bearing replacement info online. It's not a hard job, and it's not very expensive. You'll find bearings locally.

The trailer's wiring harness and bulbs are probably going to have a couple little surprises for you.
 
#29 ·
Things to check

Rigging & Chain plates: check for the ends and fittings for rust & the rigging for meat hooks and spiraling out

Hull: check for damage, blisters and delamination. Thump it with a white mallet and listen to the sound. You'll know when it's delaminated

Engine: check the oil, pop the top and look for corrosion (means a poorly maintained engine) check the plugs, is prop intact/dented, start her up,

Deck: check for scratches and cracks to be sure they are just gelcoat. Check for delamination as above. check rudder post

Equipment: Life jackets, flares, radio, anchor, anchor rode,

Electrical: Check all lights, running lights, anchor light, steaming light, deck light, depth sounder

Rigging: check your blocks, winches (spin freely) , fairleads for wear. Sheets for wear

Check sails for wear, age, sides and leech line for wear and breakage,

Spars: Check fittings, pad eyes and bales for wear, cracking and distorion

Life lines: Check the lines for cracked vinyl with rust, rusty fittings, be sure the pelican hook is in good order, stanchions should be bedded properly
 
#30 ·
Things to check

Rigging & Chain plates: check for the ends and fittings for rust & the rigging for meat hooks and spiraling out

Hull: check for damage, blisters and delamination. Thump it with a white mallet and listen to the sound. You'll know when it's delaminated

Engine: check the oil, pop the top and look for corrosion (means a poorly maintained engine) check the plugs, is prop intact/dented, start her up,

Deck: check for scratches and cracks to be sure they are just gelcoat. Check for delamination as above. check rudder post

Equipment: Life jackets, flares, radio, anchor, anchor rode,

Electrical: Check all lights, running lights, anchor light, steaming light, deck light, depth sounder

Rigging: check your blocks, winches (spin freely) , fairleads for wear. Sheets for wear

Check sails for wear, age, sides and leech line for wear and breakage,

Spars: Check fittings, pad eyes and bales for wear, cracking and distorion

Life lines: Check the lines for cracked vinyl with rust, rusty fittings, be sure the pelican hook is in good order, stanchions should be bedded properly
Great. Thanks a lot. Ignorance was bliss when it came to my boat. Now I want to take the ***** out to the middle of the sound and sink her.
 
#32 ·
I'd stick the stick up, toss in a life jacket and chuck it in the water and go have fun.

You then get a real list of what needs doing but more importantly, in fact vitally importantly beyond all other importances is you bond with your new toy! :) Rip the wrapping off and go play!

:cut_out_animated_em :2 boat: :svoilier:
 
#34 ·
You should check that you have all safety equipment that is compulsory for that size of boat. Life jackets, flares, and so on. The USCG has a webpage for this. You can also carry more than the minimum, of course. I'd consider at least a handheld VHF to be essential, and a fixed one too would be a good idea.

Also I can recommend an excellent reference book that includes a section on inspecting older boats :

https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Compl...enance-ebook/dp/B006N7YEC4/ref=dp_kinw_strp_1

I used to sail a trailerable Wayfarer daysailor. We always put the mast up in the parking lot (and did everything else possible, like mount the rudder, and so on), while the boat was strapped to the trailer and hitched to the car. These are essential details. Otherwise, the boat will topple over. Then you proceed with caution to the ramp. The idea is to minimise the time spent messing about at the ramp.

It is really important to check for power lines. Now and then someone does not, and the results can be horrific.
 
#35 ·
I added some pictures of the bunks from the trailer. Just to add again, I will only be driving it 20- 30 minutes no highway. Will this be ok or do I need to get that fixed first and how? I don't have access to a lift. I also need to replace the tires. I will add more pictures of the hitch as well since it is not in good shape either.
 
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