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Rigging Help/Advice QOL improvements

762 views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  hellosailor 
#1 ·
TL;DR = A bunch of separate questions about sailing my boat now that I've been out a few times. Thanks in advance.

So we've been out on this Morgan 24/25 sailing right around five times now and I'm starting to identify some things with which I need to ask more experienced folk about as far as things like best practices are concerned. Im still new to this so forgive my lack of knowledge about some of the language.

We sail in a relatively protected weather and have only been going out in winds < 15. Actually it got to 13 gusting higher the last time we were out and It was getting pretty testy for me just because I'm not sure how all the equipment will hold up.

I'm in the process of getting the standing rigging (there's nothing too bad, only one has rust appearing at the fitting and its an inner, no cracks (checked with a magnifying glass), open turnbuckles all in good shape, etc) and halyards replaced and I think that will help my trust in the vehicle a lot more. The boat is a 60's but the rigging definitely seems newer than that. I haven't gone up the mast but this is all why I'm taking it easy.


ANYWHO


Topping lift: The boom on this thing floats. When the sail is all the way up and the boom lowered it gets pretty close to the cockpit which is fine but too close to stand and work in so I have a car on the boom track when the sail isn't in use I raise the boom and block it at the highest point with the car. A TL holds the back up when the sale is down which as I understand is the intended function of that. The TL runs down the mast just like the jib and main halyards. My question is the process of raising the sail and avoiding dumping the boom into the cockpit in the process. I have not tried many repetitions of this to practice but the next time I go out I think my process will be as follows:
1. Lower front of boom to approximate operating position and tie downhaul.
2. Raise mainsail fully.
3. Lower and then remove topping lift.

Is there a better way to manage this?

While I'm here, what about the opposite way. What about when I decide to reef or drop the sail if It gets a little crazy or even at the end of the day? Whats the best procedure for redoing the topping lift?

Jib trim sheets: The first times we went out we used mainsail only. I wanted to wrap my head around how it all worked with just the one sail. The last time was the only time we used the jib. The boat came with wooden cleats and a few of them have broken off. There are still enough cleats to tie sheets to. My question here is as I start getting replacements for the broken cleats is there something that may be easier/better for the quality of life of operating the jib? I've seen some boats of a similar size with the sheets running through a dog instead of tying to a cleat? Right now it goes from the jib to a single pulley (block?) which is clipped on to a car and then back to the winch.

Also while I'm on the jib I run it outside of the lifelines, outside of the stanchions, and haven't tried it any other way.

Main sheet: Main sheet goes to the boom from mounted blocks on each side of the cockpit, there is no traveler. I replaced a lot of that with space bits I had from a bigger boat someone else had. They are slightly oversized for the job but it works out. Last time out I felt like I had to constantly keep the mainsheet out of the dog and in my hand as long as the tiller. In fact in the four hours we were gone I was in this configuration the entire time. Winds were ~10-12 occasionally gusting higher. I simply couldnt really find a setting of the mainsheet that I felt I could just leave (I was trying to keep it comfortable as far as heel is concerned). This would be a problem for me if I was by myself trying to change the jib orientation. Is this normal? In hindsight I realize I set-and-forgot the Jib, should I have let that out more to control the wind on the main that away? I'm trained as a glider pilot, so I'm used to feeling things out, but I watch videos of people doing a lot less work than I seem to be doing.

Tiller play: I have not investigated this too much but there is a degree or two of looseness in the tiller as you go from one direction to another. A very discernable "knock." If you let it go, reversing, doing micro-maneuvering getting back to dock it can come back pretty hard on you. Is some play normal? Should there be absolutely no play? As I understand it the rudder and it's shaft come up through the cockpit floor and the tiller arm attaches sort of like a cap. Will get more here as I look more at the tiller.
 
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#2 ·
Lots of questions here. Here's some comments.

1. Rust on a shroud is not good. Replace it.

2. With a halyard type topping lift there is no need to remove the topping lift. Best is if you can find a position where is keeps the boom at a good height when the main is down but still has a bit of slack when sailing close hauled. If you can't do this, then a minor adjustment before and after sailing is all that's needed.

3. Jib sheets belong outside everything. Wooden cleats! Really? Replace them.

4. You should not need to sail with the mainsheet in your hand. Four hours sailing like that!! I'm exhausted just thinking about it. Sounds like you were overpowered. You need some experience with sail trim, reefing, dumping the main in gusts, etc.

5. Ideally there should be little or no play in the tiller. Check the fitting at the top of the rudder post where the tiller is attached. May have some wear or need tightening.

Sounds like you are doing well. Keep having fun!
 
#3 ·
Hi,

Like JimsCAL says, try to find that spot where the topping lift can just be left alone. When the main is down, the topping lift should support the boom ideally above your head???

Experiment with sail shape. As the wind increases, pull in some more outhaul and a bit more downhaul (if your boom is not fixed but slides on a track). This is the way mine is (older boat from the 60s). The newer configs have what they call a cunningham. All of this flattens the sail for better performance as the wind builds. And yes, learn to reef...go out on a fairly light day and practice...it's fun and will build your confidence for when you need to. Any sailor will tell you "when you first think about reefing, do it..."

The jib works similarly...more halyard tension as the wind builds. You may want to install jib tell tales that will help you trim properly as well as know where to position your blocks/cars on your genoa tracks. I think you can google "jib trim" and get a pretty good idea of what you're after.



Wes
 
#4 ·
MORGAN 24/25 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

There's one start for how the boat originally was--and should be--rigged. When you've got an old used boat, you cannot assume the sails, the mast, the boom, or anything else actually ARE what they are supposed to be. I know someone who replaced a mast and boom with something so close no one could ever tell--but it still meant he needed custom measurements for his sails to fit the new rig. Not "very" custom, but enough.

So starting point #1 is to research what you've got. Possibly get an inexpensive 100' fiberglass tape measure ("surveryors tape") and check some measurements of the mast, boom, and sails.

Rule of thumb with standing rigging is 10-20 years, and throw it out. "Some" rust usually means lots more internally, and if you can't find out the age of it, a visual inspection often isn't enough. An eyeball inspection will miss things on the fittings that a proper dye check will turn up, but again at 20 years, it may pay to replace all the shiny parts rather than dye check them all. Consider what it will cost you in repairs, rescue, possible wreck removal and pollution abatement, if the rig comes down. If nothing else--pull the mast and use a dye check on all fittings, and replace the wire.

If you take some pictures of the way your jib is cleated, etc., and take them in to a local chandlery, they should be able to give you suggestions for better ways. Or email them to Harken or Garhaeur, both of those companies make better ways to hold lines and they'll gladly go over options with you. Offhand it sounds like a fairlead and a cam cleat, or jam cleat, would be an inexpensive and easy solution for you.

I've only used a topping lift in "on/off" mode. On, it holds the boom up when the main has been dropped. Off, is where you move it after raising sail. Shouldn't be a whole lot of need to fuss with it otherwise, unless you like to adjust the boom so it only hits crew over a certain height on each trip.(G)
 
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