In response to Giuletta's comment about a marine diesel engine built "from scratch", it seems to me that all of them begin life as a general purpose basic engine, and are thereafter modified to suit particular applications. As an example, my little 2GM has cousins driving generators in marine and land-based service.
The great virtue in this is that a particular basic engine design can be manufactured in great numbers (the marine market is pretty small) and their worth can be proven by many operating hours accumulated in all kinds of applications.
Now what makes a good marine engine? I submit that it is the care with which the engine is outfitted for marine service. Everything part except the basic block and heads is usually a marine specific part. In that respect, Yanmar excels. I am continually impressed with the obvious care in engineering, manufacture, and materials that go into its marine line.
A practical measure of engineering lies in what it takes to repair something. When I bought my present boat, the little Yanmar was seized up as a result of having its combustion chambers filled with antifreeze solution several years earlier. I anticipated total replacement. When I opened it up however, I found that a new set of sleeves, piston assemblies, head and pan gaskets were all that was required to repair the corrosion damage. I didn't even have to have the head machined. (It wasn't all beer and skittles, I also replaced a lot of filters, belts, air silencer and so forth.) With new paint, it looks and runs like a new engine.
Please do Giu. I might get some ideas from it. Most of my new installation I will be doing myself.
OK...sorry for the dust... Remember mine is a SD50 racing saildrive, longer and thiner.
OK here is the Yanmar engine mount, that you fibergalss pretty much where you want to. We installed it as far forward as we could. It was cut to follow the descent of the hull.
Same as above but top view..the round part is where the seal of the saildrive goes. Note it is not at its final location.
Bellow it already in its place, between the 2 rear cabins, wood is for mould. That central compartment was kept free and is used to store sails etc. Goes from the «back of the engine all the way to the transom. My idea.
Here you can see the engine at the end of the corridor, and my first Glass fiber Rudder quadrant. (rudder is controlled by lightweight Dyneema cables). The new one is Carbon fiber.
Engine compartment and storage
View from inside with stairs up. Yes I use cheap light car batteries get over it!!!
Engine controls near Stbd wheel.
saildrive and racing fold prop, by Gori.
and here a view of said locker full of crapp I have to carry when we cruise....
Hope it helps, if you have more questions..please don't hesitate
Talked to my mechanic today..at the Marina ...As I suspected the Yanmar 4JH3E made a lot of sense..Engine..wire harness freight etc..about $11.3 with freight and make sense few options.. etc...
Drive line $250 ...prop $300.."extra expense
I'll have to do some engine bed modification...but a real ball breaker is...new exhaust system...probably run $1000.00...Mine is 2.5 "..on the volvo...The Yanmar requires 3" system..."Not a difficult job..I can do that myself..within a few hours...
So i"ts not going to be cheap...lot of the dirty work done by me...but once you make up your mind...no point in nickle and diming...The old engine esentially worth zip..."It is what it is"
Mark is a good guy has a great reputation here at the Marina..and on the Island...
After old engine out...clean and paint bilge area below the engine...Modify the strainer position and Racor as required..
"Ought to be fun,,did everything else on boat myself.."An engine worthy of my twin 4D... AGM Concord Heartline batteries...
Like to get Opinions..The acceptance rate of charge on AGM's is 4 times faster than wet cells...twice Gel batteries.."One of the real benefits of AGM's...as I understand it...So rather than spend an additional $185.00 for the 80 amp alternator...staying with the standard 60..plus I have a rather efficient wind generator.."So I figured just peeing money away?
Although I do not have hot water heater..ordered the hot water kit with valve..Anyone have any feedback on that ..and how it interfaces with additional required equipment..would appreciate feedback on that issue too.?
I didn't order any added pulleys..have external gas generator..and external air conditioning..The compressor to run refrigeration was shot..
but can do that off 3KW invertor or my generator..."only a half hr on the cold plates...required..every other day
I did exactly what you are contemplating about eight months ago. My 1970's Volvo gave up the ghost on a trip up the intracoastal. Thank heavens for BOATUS towing insurance, but that's another story. Here's this one:
My mechanic recommended the Yanmar. It is smaller than the Volvo, weighs less, produces 30 hp but that is directly to the shaft (Volvo was 37hp but that was supposedly before transmission.) He told me that the Yanmar would do the job. Well, it turns out that it was a good thing we did. The engine stringers the Volvo was mounted to, it turns out they were not attached to the boat. Yes, that's right, the weight of the engine was all that was holding it in place. Could have been a bit dicey it it had decided to let go (How long can you tread water?)
Ok, brass tacks...how much? New engine and transmission $7,500, fiberglass work, parts, labor, six weeks on the hard, etc. an additional $7500. The knowledge that the motor is safe, efficient, reliable...priceless! We now have around 60 hours on her and she can move us. 12000 pounds of boat. I don't know if your Volvo was set up the same as ours, and this was perhaps the hardest thing to get used to, We ould cruise at 1500 rpm with the Volvo, 1800 was getting close to max. The Yanmar will cruise along at 3000 rpm, with max about 3500. Oh, one other thing...no black diesel smoke any more!