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  #11  
Old 04-26-2007
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Kacper-

Under normal circumstances cooling water enters the engine from the sea and is pumped through the engine by the water pump. The water is then pumped into the exhaust elbow and then into the waterlift muffler where it is then pushed overboard by the exhaust gasses. However, during an extended attempt to start the motor, the engine may not be firing, and no exhaust gasses are available to push the water overboard. This results in the water accumulating in the water-lift muffler until it fills, and backs up into the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold, then as the exhaust and intake manifold valves opene and close, the water flows into the intake manifold cylinders and carburetor.

This can hydro-lock the engine and cause serious damage if you try to run or start the engine with water inside the cylinders.

Generally, the problem can be prevented by not running the starter for more than 10-20 seconds at a time, and letting the water drain out between attempts.

I hope this helps.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #12  
Old 04-27-2007
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The bloody Bimini is preventing the boom from coming all the way down!

Thanks SD! That cleared it up.

Alright guys, did the Sea Trial today... and guess what?

I LOVED the way the boat sailed(had some issues, which I would like your guys' advice with)

The way she just cut through the water, sturdy and fine, plowing the waves with that bow sprit decor.... AAaah... it was to live for!

She perfomed well in just 7 knots of breeze, with just the yankee and main. we were able to hit 4.5 Knots on all points of sail.

With the staysail out, we were able to hit 5.5 knots and could have probably hit 6 - 6.5 if .....


The bloody Bimini is preventing the boom from coming all the way down!

The Bimini, is too high. on a close reach and closehauled point of sale the boom cannot come all the way down. This seriously affects the shape of the sail.

I think the previous owner was a total newbie and didn't know the difference, ... he must have been sailing with the topping lift on the entire time, because when I un-did the topping lift, I could feel it had never been touched, the line would barely let out as if it had been stuck in that position for ages.

So the bimini must have been designed for his height or something.

So, this is something that definitely must be corrected. Any thoughts

I thought of adjusting the Bimini frames somehow, but this would make the bimini cover not fit over the frames correctly.

Another idea is to move the gooseneck up a foot an see if there this enough room at the top of the mast to move the head of the sail up.


OR... cut the head of the sail by about a foot. this probably wouldn't affect the sail as much as knocking a foot off the foot of the sail.

What do you guys think?

I could just remove the Bimini, which probably will not be up once we sail down south but, here it is a really great thing to have to keep you dry and warm when the weather gets ugly.

The other issue is the engine, which is getting surveyed on May 1st.

The Yanmar 2GM is running a bit "rough" and the broker anticipates that there is a fault with it. It's clanking a little bit too much and vibrates a lot more when you rev it up than it should.

How much do you guys thing these issues can get me knocked off the price of the boat ?


Kacper
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2007
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The bimini frame will probably have to be replaced entirely. A new frame, shorter in height, could be made to fit the old bimini, but it is probably worth making a new bimini at the time the frame is made.

I wouldn't cut the sails or touch the boom.

When you start sailing in the hot sun... you will definitely want a bimini. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the captain and crew. Also, helps keep the crew dry in the rain... Having some shade, when you're sailing in 90˚ weather is a huge part of staying healthy... and reduces your exposure to the sun.

Have you gotten an engine survey?? If not, might be worth doing, to see how bad the Yanmar really is. Could just need a tune up...could be something major...
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #14  
Old 04-27-2007
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Kacper...I looked at the on line pictures and the boom angle over the top of the bimini doesn't look that bad when compared to other bayfield pictures. With the topping lift off...how much sail is affected...if you let off the cunningham a bit...could you get a full raise on the sail i.e. can the head be hoised a bit higher? Cutting the sail or re-doing the entire bimini/cockpit enclosure will not be cheap. Normally you could just lower the bimini by cutting the struts a bit but the full enclosure would be lost by doing this. You will NEED the bimini itself once you get south.

The engine sounds worry me. No way to tell the problem from your description...clanking is never good and vibration could mean motor mount problems or something more serious. Get the engine survey done and then you'll know for sure...and we can help with cost estimates if your engine guy can't.
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2007
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Kacper
Yanmar 2GM early models were renowned for noise and vibration about 1800 rpm.
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2007
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Kacper

SD is right when he suggests you WILL want the bimini down south - the sun is relentless, and as good as that sounds on a day like yesterday, you do need/will want the shelter after not too long.

The cheapest route for this problem may simply be to have the main recut to raise the clew (leave the boom/tack as is) to give the boom a slightly higher angle to clear the canvas. I'd guess this would cost between $200-250 - not bad in this new world of yours. Maybe less money yet if you make the sail loose footed at the same time.

By all means get the engine checked out, and make sure that the noise is in fact engine based, and not some external vibration knocking around. On our boat at least half the noise is from vibration of external parts at certain rpms. (cupboard doors, the companionway ladder, etc)

Good luck - nice weekend on the way, I'll keep an eye out for you.
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I hired a pretty well known surveyor when i first bought my boat. Very few of the problems on my boat were detected by him! He tapped and tapped but never had a moisture meter. He told me the old wilcox-c head system was fine. The holding bladder was not even hooked up to the toilet and the manual pump is broken apart! The previous onwer was crapping right into the water. There were bottles of draino and bleach and oozy goopy toxic sludge in many of the storage copartments. The part of the deck i am re-coring, he said was fine. I won't bore you guys with more but it was pretty much a waste of 750$. I could have spent that on my new head and holding tank! I guess the guys in my yard were right....jack of all trades, master of none!
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2007
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Just remember being well-known doesn't mean that they're any good. Same thing about being a professional. I know a lot of amateur photographers that put professional photogs I know to shame... all being well-known means is that people know the name... all being a professional means in many cases is that the IRS knows you do something and get paid for it.
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New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #19  
Old 04-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonV
Kacper
Yanmar 2GM early models were renowned for noise and vibration about 1800 rpm.
In the pic of the engine in the Yachtworld listing, the plate on the engine is marked 3GM. Go figure.
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster
Kacper
The cheapest route for this problem may simply be to have the main recut to raise the clew (leave the boom/tack as is) to give the boom a slightly higher angle to clear the canvas. I'd guess this would cost between $200-250 - not bad in this new world of yours. Maybe less money yet if you make the sail loose footed at the same time.
While cutting the sail to save the bimini may smack of blasphemy I agree this will probably be the cheapest way out and unless your sailmaker thinks it will ruin the sails shape it may be better all around. I know after having a full enclosure bimini made for my previous boat at $5,000 you won't get much bimini adjustment done for under $500.
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