Sun faded decals - scrap 'em? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 20 Old 08-27-2007 Thread Starter
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My wife does scrapbooking and has some kind of magic stuff I can use if all else fails (I will try other things first as magic isn't cheap). The stuff she has is amazing. In the demo she saw for it, they removed a sticker from a piece of toilet paper without tearing it and in a few seconds after removal the sticker becomes sticky again. We have been very successful with using it on stickers and decals. I won't be real surprised if I can just peel it off though.
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post #12 of 20 Old 08-27-2007
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Yes, Easy-Off oven cleaner does contain lye or sodium hydroxide, but it is less than 5% by volume. It can damage some paints, which is why I said you had to be careful with it. It can also damage gelcoat....but it is often used to remove boat lettering without damaging the underlying laminate.

However, IIRC, it is better suited to removing hand-painted lettering and graphics, rather than vinyl decals.

A non-heat, non-chemical way to do this is to use a 3M stripping wheel, which is designed to remove vinyl pinstripes from cars. You can see it here.

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s'dog, EasyOff is lye. It eats all kinds of paints and coatings AND softens fiberglass and gelcoat. Best not used on boats except in the galley, and if you do use it, make sure to do a acid wash (vinegar) afterwards to neutralize the alkali residue of the lye.

Yes, you CAN melt a boat.

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post #13 of 20 Old 08-27-2007 Thread Starter
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The decals have virtually melded with the hull; you can see the edge, but cannot feel it with your fingernail. Now I fully understand why the PO left them there in their yellowed state.
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post #14 of 20 Old 08-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
s'dog, EasyOff is lye. It eats all kinds of paints and coatings AND softens fiberglass and gelcoat. Best not used on boats except in the galley, and if you do use it, make sure to do a acid wash (vinegar) afterwards to neutralize the alkali residue of the lye.

Yes, you CAN melt a boat.
Easy Off should be regulated! A friend of mine years ago was trying to remove tar/asphalt from a rocker panel on a near-new bronco, and it took only 5 seconds to kill the top coats of paint. Very nasty.

It is an evil product............
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post #15 of 20 Old 08-27-2007
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BTW, I'd like to edit a bit---when I used the soapy razor blades on our boat, it WAS only to lift the decals. In the tropical heat, the rest of the sticker came off pretty easy. The Toluene part was used after the decals were off and to prep for the new ones. After I was done, I gave the area a quick buff and wax job by hand. Total time of project was maybe 2 hours, including a beer and a taco break. Plus it was 97 out..........

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post #16 of 20 Old 08-28-2007
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Guy's and Gal's, Just a fantastic find I made while removing old letters and OLD stripes from our 31 Citation I thought I would share. Don't scrape or apply solvent! Go to any Auto detail shop and purchase a gummy rubber wheel (about $12.00). They use in a electric drill or buffer. This thing makes short work of the old mess and leaves your gel coat perfect and ready for the nice new one your print shop made.
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post #17 of 20 Old 08-28-2007
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3M pinstripe removing wheel....
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Originally Posted by HatterasJack View Post
Guy's and Gal's, Just a fantastic find I made while removing old letters and OLD stripes from our 31 Citation I thought I would share. Don't scrape or apply solvent! Go to any Auto detail shop and purchase a gummy rubber wheel (about $12.00). They use in a electric drill or buffer. This thing makes short work of the old mess and leaves your gel coat perfect and ready for the nice new one your print shop made.

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—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #18 of 20 Old 08-28-2007
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While we are on the subject. Where are we getting our new lettering from? I have 4 inch letters on the stern that need to be replaced. I know they sell them right here on sailnet, but are those any good? I need individual letters, not a one piece.

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"but are those any good?"
With any vinyl signage, ask the maker exactly what vinyl they will be using.
3M and Gerber both make premium "exterior grade" or "marine grade" vinyl which will cost more--but carry a warranty of 5-7 years. It is thicker and uses denser pigments so it won't fade and chalk like some cheap stuff will.

There may be other brands that are just as good, but I'd prefer the 3M myself. Gerber [here] is a major maker of sign cutting machines and vinyl--not the same as the baby food or outdoor clothing companies, also with a top reputation.

A good shop won't sell you individual letters unless that's precisely what you need. They will cut the entire name/port and then place a "scrim" on top of the letters, so that you can peel away the excess from between the letters, apply the entire "sheet" of scrim, and then peel away the scrim layer, leaving just the letters, all in perfect alignment.

The scrim may be clear vinyl or "tissue" paper, no real difference either way. If you follow the instructions about applying the lettering (using a soapy spray or special solution they'll sell) and letting it dry in place before removing the scrim, it will come out very nicely.
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post #20 of 20 Old 08-28-2007
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Thanks HS. Yes, thats what I meant by individual letters. As long as it is not one big decal.

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